I've made a lot of other changes, not just adding heads. I have a build thread posted somewhere here that goes into the whole engine build. Recently just changed rear axle ratio from 3.08 to 4.10, that was a big change too.
Here the thread of my build: https://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/buick-350-engine-build.347822/
Ok I know, a brutal 4 years nerco post reply..and a somewhat silly one to some maby. Iv'e seen pics the sbb deep skirt block and in my minimal mediocre knowledge I noticed the same about it just being a deep skirt with 2 bolt caps that don't even come close to the block edges.. Yes the Nail Head has a deep skirt design but its beefie thick main caps seem to sit deeper. Has anyone or can you machine the block and make new wide caps to fit on the sides and make the mains a 2 bolt and a cross bolt setup? which enough precision for bearings to be square on and true? Also is there enough casting or "meat" in the areas needed to maby do this.. Can the 350 block survive the machining and hole drilling work. If it has a high nickel content, does it make it harder to work with? I also think there is a lip on the inside bottom railing that might hinder any chance?
Yes the deep skirted block on the 350 is MUCH stronger than the 455. A deep skirted block does not need to have cross bolted mains to be strong. Look at the bulk head/s of the 350 where each main cap bolts, the bulk heads extend from the wall of the block, and widens as they approach the main bolt holes. If you were to try and push the crank out the bottom, those angled bulk heads are going to try to pull the block wall/skirt with it, VERY hard to do. The 3.8 V6 is the same design, that’s why the Turbo 3.8’s could handle crazy torque output, the Chevy Turbo 4.3 tho larger, was challenged and had issues. Big diesels are all deep skirted, but non I’ve seen are crossbolted.
I have a question. What spark plugs to use with these heads. I spoke with Mike today at TA he gave me some suggestions. Their catalog lists two plugs to use one being a racing plug that isn’t a resistor plug the other plug they suggest is NGK BCPR9ES which is a resistor plug. Unfortunately not available for sale in the USA. I need a resistor plug so not to interfere with my EFI. I contacted NGK and they recommended an iridium plug BKR9EIX to replace the BCPR9ES. Just curious what other people are using. Also there is not much choice in heat range.
I use an NGK FR-5. Can't see why you couldn't use that same plug. Reach is the same, 3/4" (19mm). It's a flat seat plug with a gasket. Comes gapped at .041". NGK 9 heat range is much cooler than a 5. Not sure why TA would recommend such a plug. The FR-5 is widely available and cheap. https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/ngk,7373,spark+plug,7212 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=33348&cc=0&pt=7212&jsn=736&_nck=ZExt1ysfqhqWnq+EvUNdS3Txyey60IDtnjPWF5UU9J0BWQv7pvqZbh+YrdIIoJ2QMq9prrkIerbFMqky5nGcn4teOg9r2Sw3+Pr1CNOXFqQFzxO1xi2naIVVDqptp38yXkE5m0eM5QCA+y15xTcreiyKbrkDUxw8XeATFs3V/8YLqVzOfPFbKRVVNkdqmX/O2CvNYXQ478k9H3A6hsj1emjlq1gJteWPIMCYEa5A0eKJT1j0MBs0MHVpcUPeblFvx1FsXB3moiV1xfSYpRg6+uYGpS9pfFPozFHHS+X6pLqc6QcZWZk83PVwY8raIYkz
Thanks Larry. Thats what I’ll be going with. Not that I have much choice. Don’t see any rationale reason to go with the more expensive iridium plugs.
Platinum and iridium plugs are fine for modern late model cars and trucks. Not for our engines IMHO. The NGK FR-5 is the plug JW uses in most of his street build engines. I have used nothing else in the 12 years I have run my current engine. JW delivered it with FR-5's in it. That's what I use.
A running motor yes car no. Having the motor Dyno’d shooting for mid February. As for the car mid summer if life doesn’t get in the way.
Haven’t really dug into it yet. When I pull the motor I’ll redo all the wiring and sort things out. Sent the rims off the old car to be repaired. Then need to swap suspension over, at least what’s not damaged.