It shifted a bit in the box, but I will get it out later this week and make sure nothing got buggered other than that breather up there. Thanks Jim, it looks great.
What is the metal item against the back wall of the box? Crate you sent core to JW in? Oh, and congrats on the new mill.....JIM
Did the rear strap come off Jon? Looks like it did. Not sure how it could have, did I not run it thru the lift hole on the back of the block? I will send you a replacement breather. I will be happy when Fastenal starts shipping nationwide again. It allows me to use my custom made shipping containers, that have a bolted on engine cradle. Could not use that for yours, since they are only shipping to the eastern half or so of the US. Fastenal sends the crates back to me for 50-75 bucks, where the LTL shipping companies want almost as much to send the empty box back I hate building crates, and yes, the metal wire thing is what Jon shipped me his parts in. Now that I think about it.. There was a split in the 2x10 that I used for the LH side of that box I build for the oil pan rail to sit on. It was not all the way thru, but I bet it broke.. I had considered not shipping it with that, but that meant I would have have had to wait several days to ship it, since we had an ice storm coming. We both wanted to get ti in transit, but I guess that is a lesson learned. Note to self, quit buying lumber from Menards.. go to the local lumberyard and pay $25 for that 2x10x8... Glad the damage appears to be minor. JW
Jim, I sent you an email yesterday with a couple extra pictures. The 2x6 on the passenger side literally pulled those two screws out of the mating 2x6 . UPS loaded this onto a trailer, and then onto a train. I have to think that long trip on a train, rocking back and forth, back and forth as trains do, and it just pulled those out. I was really shocked that it pulled over 1 inch of screw out, but it did. Once that gave out, the engine slid off the oil pan rail, the strap came off or broke, and it came to rest. The oil dipstick got bent a little, but I'm pretty sure it was just the insert, not the tube. Glad you never mounted that fuel pump because it likely would have been broken. Hey Jim, I do have another question for you. I see the distributor has a cap on the vacuum advance. Did you set this up to just be mechanical advance? Should I connect the vacuum advance or run it without? If without, should I remove the vacuum unit from the side of the distributor? I see the torque converter in there too, but when the engine shifted, it doesn't appear to have contacted the TC. Again, I will get my hoist on it and lift it out of there next week and really evaluate things. I'm not concerned, the critical parts like oil filter housing and such are on the side that didn't fall, so no damage there that I can see from above. I'm sure I will have lots of other questions.
Yes, that is a metal basket. Very handy for heavy stuff. I loaded the heads and really heavy stuff in that basket. It folds up nice and small like that, but is a good size once opened up. In order to use them tho, you need a forklift or at minimum a pallet jack.
Sure Jon, you can add 10-12* of vacuum advance for economy.. Use the ported vacuum outlet on the carb to feed it. We can go over the setup in detail once you get that far on the project. Huh.. I guess I will have to glue and screw that engine box together.. hopefully I don't ever have to make one again, I think all the motors I am doing for delivery this winter/spring are going east. JW
Yup, but anything going overseas requires a engine cradle.. we have to bolt the engine securely to the pallet/container, to insure that it survives ocean travel. I suspect as Jon said, the train was the issue here.. trucks actually typically ride fairly gently with the stuff.. most damage happens at the depot during handling. I have certainly had a few boxes with fork holes in them. JW
Yeah, but it only has a 2.74 rear end, so I will be happy in the 13's if possible. Like I said before, if I just want to go fast, I have my 2016 SRT392 that goes into the low 12's. Anything faster than that is probably too fast for me anyway.
Don't use 3rd gear at the track. Go through the traps in second gear. It will be like 2.74 X 1.48 = 4.055 gear. If it traps around 107, should put you around 5800 RPM or so.
Wouldn't it run outta oomph up above 5500? I was thinking shift it at 5200 in a race or 4800 on the street. Just so I don't go circular.
I doubt it. The HP might start to tail off a bit, but by that time, you'll be off the gas. You'll be going through the traps very close to peak HP which is what you want.
