Anyone running solid lifters on thier hydro cam

Pretty certain I'm gonna do this on my GSX and 494,...I've always wanted to but just never done it,...hydro lifters now are garbage,..and the solid lifter lash always seemed kinda rough on parts,...an episode of engine masters confirmed or at least somewhat backed me up. So as they kinda proved less spring psi is needed in the roller applications when doing it. And a tight zero lash cold makes sense I've always heard .005 when doing it but with aluminum heads it's gonna grow obviously.

Has anyone here tried it?

 

Im considering doing the same thing on my Nailhead build. Im looking into using tool steel solid lifters to eliminate flat cam issues due to soft lifters.

 

I switched to solids on my TA 413 flat tappet cam after after multiple failed sets of hydraulic lifters. I lash them at .006 but I am going to try them with zero lash and see what happens , I think it will be fine.

 

I run solids in everything,but usually solid rollers. I have seen a lot more people running solid lifters on existing hyd flat tappet cams without any issues. That is what I would do if I was in that situation.

 

On my gsx I'm gonna run BSA with its a budget build stock 70 shortblock with steel shims and obviously iron top end and manifolds,..got a 242/250 110lsa I'm gonna run,..mainly cause it's here,..but definitely gonna run some solids on it,...would love to get 110 mph out of it

 

Cams ground for solid lifters have generous take-up ramps. Cams ground for hydraulic lifters have much shorter take-up (clearance) ramps, because there's essentially nothing to "take-up" with a hydraulic lifter.

You put a solid lifter on a hydraulic cam, you're gonna pound the valve train every time the lobe rises. Same on the closing side.

A hydraulic lifter on a solid cam is gentle on the valvetrain, but has enormous low-lift duration, again because of the extended take-up ramps. This could be mitigated some by running with very little preload. Tends to reduce cranking compression pressures, and the very-long duration reduces heat transfer from valve to seat.

 

Since the "Nail" has such fast ramp rises, almost mimics a solid grind, it's usually good for 15-20HP. A diff. that can be felt in the seat of your pants.
I usually set them at .004" intake & .006" exhaust cold.

To T.

 

It's getting to be a common occurrence to run solid lifters on hydraulic cams. I know of quite a few people doing so with good results. I'm currently dealing with Comp cams on a Ford FE 427 and this is what they're recommending we do. That's also my plan for the AlphLark this winter ....... switching to solid bushed lifters and stronger springs, retainers and keepers. I've narrowed down the issues I'm having to being valve train related and I'm hoping, (like hell) that this fixes the problem!
You lose a little when using solid lifters on a hydraulic cam, but not enough to worry about for most applications.

 

Timley that this came up today as I was thinking along the same lines but was wondering if a roller lifter could be used on a flat cam. I know from looking at the 2 cams side by side there is a very different lobe profile, just dont know the hows and why of it.

 

I was told by Comp Cams that a common hydraulic flat tappet cam could be "physically" used with solid roller lifters as long as it was nitrided, but being a cast cam it would not survive the needed spring pressures required for the solid roller lifters.............. it would break into pieces. Plus, the lobe profile would NOT be optimum by a long shot.

Before I would "mix & match" any combo, I would contact the tech department of the cam manufacturer to see if it's advisable.

 

You will never get the intended performance out of running solid lifters on a hydro cam.
The hydro cam does not have the needed opening and closing ramps.

 

I disagree,...you are only improving the action of the hydro cam by taking the cushion out of the lifter and with these lifters you are getting now it takes an issue out of the equation

 

https://www.speed-talk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8547

 

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/solid-lifters-on-hydraulic-cam/

 

Now obviously if your buying a cam well you would buy a solid cam and lifter set and be done with it,...Mike Jones the undeniable "cam king" doesn't say you shouldn't just say why mix and match,..well if buying new no you wouldn't. But we're talking about running them for a retrofit to replace noisy or failed hydros,....yea I understand the ramps are different I disagree with beating the valve train up tho,..it's been done by too many for too long to support that claim

 

Granted the engine masters video is with a roller cam,..but ,..

 

It all depends on how the cam is ground. I’ve seen some old stocker cams that look like a roller. You can play around with ramp profiles and everything else. In some situations,a larger diameter lifter is used with a more aggressive ramp. The list goes on. At the end of the day,a solid flat or solid roller is the only way to go if you want to make some power,unless you have a helper,like boost.

 

I loved how my 464 revved when it had a solid 259/267 like a damn 2 stroke

 

The reason you need a roller cam to run roller lifters is because there is a taper ground into flat tappet lobes that corresponds with the convex lifter face. It's what makes them rotate in their bores.