When to run a stall converter?

Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by Reidk, Nov 16, 2020.

  1. Reidk

    Reidk Well-Known Member

    I ended up driving it. Off idle bog is just as bad or worse. But if I'm cruising and hammer it the bog isn't as bad as the edelbroc was. If I hammer it and hold it down it pulls nicely but occasionally hear a little popping in the exhaust. Not a full blown back fire though. Plugs are wet and showing color. Thinking its definitely too rich. Going to wait till it's around 50 degrees to drive it again. I'm contemplating ordering smaller jets in the meantime but would want to consult quick fuel tech first. I need to get a/f gauge right away but I plan to do the exhaust at the same time so it's going to have to wait a while.
     
  2. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    That's definitely not right. You have a problem, something you have missed. What is your exhaust now?
     
  3. Reidk

    Reidk Well-Known Member

    2 1/4 with the crush bent type bends. The mufflers look decent. Welded performance mufflers of some sort.
     
  4. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Got a vacuum gauge? Hook it to manifold vacuum. Then measure engine vacuum at idle in Park fully warm. Increase and hold engine RPM to 2000, and watch the vacuum gauge. Vacuum should be higher and stay steady. If you see it drop off at steady 2000 RPM, you have an exhaust restriction.

    You have some other type of problem that your missing. It sounds like nothing has improved to me.
     
  5. Reidk

    Reidk Well-Known Member

    What would the popping be? The only time I heard that with the eddy was when I had a big jet and too small of needle.

    I'll try the vacuum thing tomorrow or Monday. Have real steady 13.5-14 at idle. I plan on having my buddy who does exhaust do the 02 bungs. Figured it would be best to do that and the rest of the exhaust at the same time. I plan to add a H pipe.

    I've wondered if the composite intake gaskets threw my alignment off. They were very thick. My end seal gap was 3/8 of inch. Could be sucking crankcase air? Is this even possible?

    Fuel pressure stays steady when revving by hand. I have not tried rigging a way up to see it while I drive.

    Back in December my buddy backed timing off to 8* seemed to run better at that time.

    I read a thread from 69gs with a c110 cam in a 350 car he had horrible performance. He redegreed cam to 4* advance and was like a whole different car.

    I've thought about doing a compression test on all 8 cylinders.

    What else can I do while waiting for A/F gauge? I revved engine up to about 3 grand shut it off after idling for a moment. Pulled plugs from both sides of the motor and they were wet. Gotta be rich right?
     
  6. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Popping from the exhaust, yeah, unburned fuel igniting in the exhaust pipes.

    No, intake gaskets would not account for that. It is possible to have an internal vacuum leak, but then it would be lean and pop back through the carburetor, a lean misfire.

    Timing? You should be able to set that correctly. Too retarded will give you low power, too advanced will produce detonation. Moving the timing around may temporarily mask another problem. The engine is not running right. You haven't hit upon the problem yet.

    Cam timing? You didn't degree the cam, someone else did. Unless it is wildly off, I don't think so.

    Yes, compression and leak down tests might reveal something.

    Wait for the air/fuel readings.
     
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  7. Reidk

    Reidk Well-Known Member

    There was that one time when I was putting the harmonic balancer on and torqued to well over a hundred foot pounds before the motor turned. Then it turned suddenly. Kinda Like when a bolt breaks loose. And after that turned easily. No plugs were in yet. We all discussed it and I just concluded that it was the short arm on the fuel pump that just happened to hit the eccentric just right and caused a bind. wondering if it was something else entirely. Is it possible my timing chain skipped or something crazy? This sucks.
     
  8. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    No. It's going to be something basic in the end I think. You need a second opinion. Has your brother driven the car?
     
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  9. Reidk

    Reidk Well-Known Member

    Back in December he drove it and He immediately said it needed a bigger shot of fuel/more carb. This carb feels better for power hands down. I think it needs leaned out for cruise but possibly a bigger shot of fuel when its hammered. Whenever I increased the pump shot on the eddy it improved performance never decreased it. But I went as big as I could. Right now I think its borderline flooding while driving and at idle but I could be wrong. This is probably calibrated out of the box for something with 500 hp. Not surprised it's running rich.
     
  10. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    I don't know, I think it should run good right out of the box. Yeah, all carburetors need fine tuning. What your describing sounds like the same problem to me.
     
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  11. Reidk

    Reidk Well-Known Member

    Theres quite a few 5 star reviews for ss carbs on summit. This is the only negative one I found. Jetting was rich. In the end he liked his carb though. Other reviewers liked the carb and left 5 star reviews but also stated that it was too rich. Screenshot_20210219-232624_Samsung Internet.jpg
     
  12. Reidk

    Reidk Well-Known Member

    Think most of the wetness is from running without valve covers the other day. Lol. Either way its alot darker than with the eddy. From what I've read the color on ground strap is indicating a little too much total timing. 20210220_222303.jpg
     
  13. Mart

    Mart Gold level member

    I can never figure how the oil would get by that tapered seat that seals compression and gets on the threads?
    Maybe it doesn't & it's stem seals or guides.
     
  14. Fox's Den

    Fox's Den 355Xrs

    I get that too if the car sits for a few weeks, I think it is the oil that is in the valve guides that leaks in and gets on the threads.

    What you got that gapped at looks like it has been bent down from a .060 gap to a .040 gap the "J" strap looks rounded.
    That should be flat and parallel to the electrode in the center of the plug, otherwise you will not get the full effect of the plug. There will be different gaps between one end of the electrode to the other, which leads to faster wear.
     
  15. Reidk

    Reidk Well-Known Member

    They are basically brand new ngk ur4. Gapped around .040
     
  16. Reidk

    Reidk Well-Known Member

    Are you running a 50cc accelerator pump?
     
  17. Mart

    Mart Gold level member

    There are lots of tuning videos out there...I run 50cc pump on pri.

     
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  18. Reidk

    Reidk Well-Known Member

    Do all of the other guys run the 50cc? My mid range bog when hammering at cruise is better, off the line bog is worse. I was running a massive pump nozzle on the eddy. I read that the 50cc helps compensate for an intake that's too big for the engine by supplying a longer duration shot. So size of nozzle might not be as important
     
  19. Reidk

    Reidk Well-Known Member

    Trying to figure out which afr to order there are so many to choose from. I kind of like the idea of a handheld one that I can move between vehicles. They also have some that link right to your phone
     
  20. Mart

    Mart Gold level member

    Professor Guy suggested the 50 on frt. It solved everything real quick for my setup. SP3 with 1" tapered spacer. :) Zero bog anywhere.
    Every combo is different. Went up on squirters, down on jets, way down (2.5's) on pwr valves, (not much vacuum). Brown & pink, or yellow cams I think.
    Still a bit fat at idle, burns your eyes, stinks, girlfriend pissy & complaining, etc.:D
    Haven't had chance to play with air bleeds yet. Car is hibernating :D
     
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