I think you're going to need some serious wheel spacers to get them to fill the wheelwells. Those have the offset for a front wheel drive car, so are going to be set in very far once your body is on.
Looks like an 18x8 off a Lacrosse to me. I can't get offset specs, just that they are "high positive". https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1.....0....1..gws-wiz-img.......35i39.Bun4_b8AJPk
Looks like the offset is 40mm on a 2012 Lacrosse. That's about 1.5". So on an 8" wheel, that's about 6" back space. The 68-69 need more back space than the 70-72. If there is no interference inboard, it might work. Without the body on the frame, hard to say.
In Ontario, Canada, wheel spacers are BANNED. Your car, if it has these, will not pass a safety check.
I'd bet it will rub on the fronts with contact to the frame in the rear and the sway bar or possibly the frame/wheel well in the front. In the rear I'd think you won't have much room for movement like running over an uneven area that rotates the rear under the car. For instance, jack one rear side up and the body goes up but the rear lags. Jacked wheel falls away from body, non-jacked side wheel pivots in toward the inner wheel well.
2012 Buick regal turbo. I have 2 inches to inside frame rail, 2 inches to outside quarter panel lip. Backspace was in the 6 inch range. Front width total is 1 inch overall wider than rear.
Not planning on visiting nor do i think spaces are needed. Do they check all cars crossing the border? Wow
This may not be relevant, but bear with me. Here in Australia, Holden used the 5 on 4.75" PCD. Later on they used a metric wheel. They'll bolt on, but the PCD is slightly different. Enough to stress the studs, according to some. I'd also be checking that the hole in the wheel centre is engaging with the hub on the axle/ rotor. I'm not a fan of the lug nuts & studs taking the entire weight of the car. Just my thoughts, there are plenty of others here better informed than I on this question.
The difference between the metric and the 4.75 is 0.01279 inch on each stud. That is half the difference between a 7 and 5 refillable lead pencil. The hole in the center of stock wheels do not contact the hub, so yeah the vehicle weight was on the studs from factory. These wheels do center up though.
Patrick, that's what i thought at first. It's a big investment to screw up if im wrong. The rears are centered in the 13 inches of opening from the frame/tub to the quarter panel lip. I've got another post here somewhere where i posted the specifics in order to squeeze in 10 inch tires. The only mod i did to the front is massage an aluminum lip off the center of the wheel. I ordered new lugs that are extended and have the correct bevel.
Yup, I've seen the result of Commodore steelies on a HQ Street Stock. Fortunately wheel headed to the infield not over the fence - as I went by the guys pit as he was getting tractored in he said "not a f#$*ing word Lloyd I know what you told me" Old school alloys with shouldered nuts usually have enough slop in the holes to get away with it but tapered nuts are a bad deal especially on 40+ year old studs.