Ended up installing tubular upper and lower control arms with 2” drop springs in front and 3” drop springs in the rear with tubular upper and lower control arms as well. Also added 1.25” sway bar in front and 1” sway bar in the rear. All UMI products. It is so low I had to remove the long tube headers and go with stock exhaust manifolds to tuck it close with 3” exhaust back to 2 spintech 3000 mufflers turned down in front of the rear axle(it is loud). At the same time did a Muncie 4 speed conversion. Everything was done by Jamie Mckevlin of Jamie’s Performance and Repair in Sacshe Tx. He and Josh do great work! Only place I will take my Buick in the Dallas area.
"Phase 1" on my '71 GS 350. Ridetech Stage II coilovers and swaybars, Wilwood disc brakes all around, Budnik "Pivot" 18x10 rear. 18x8 front. Nitto 295/35-18 & 275/35-18
'71 GS 350 with Ridetech Stage II coilovers and Muscle Bars (which lowered front 2" and rear only 1" from stock), Nitto NT05 295/35-18 rear, 275/35-18 front on Budnik "Pivot" wheels. Front springs are Ridetech 8" 750 lb but I might need to go with something a little heavier. Coils are adjusted 3/4 way up to keep front tires from rubbing. Heavier springs is probably the better answer. Rear springs are Ridetech 12" 225 lb. I wouldn't mind the rear to drop a little lower. I may cut an inch out of the spring.
Beautiful car! I found your pic on line somewhere and had it as my desktop for inspiration when I started building my '71 GS. Thanks for the inspiration!
I was able to fit 275/35-18 in the front with Ridetech suspension and drop spindles without cutting anything... but it's REALLY close! Front sits lower than expected. At first, tire rubbed on the inside fender bolt at the top of the wheel well and I couldn't adjust the coil up much higher. So I took the bolt out! Genius!
I also had to remove the pesky bolts on the top of the wheel well on both sides. In the rear I had to do some minor surgery. About a 1/4" was cut out of the lip of the rear wells. I'm running 225/40/18 front and 275/40/20 rear
Cool deal. Pretty simple fix. I always wondered if a 9in wide wheel would fit up front and what would need to be done if any
How much clearance did you end up with between the tire and frame on the inside (closest point) and tire and fender lip on the outside?
Thank you! I totally failed to specify: Circle Racing Billet Aluminum 17”X8” wheels up front and 17”X9.5" in rear. 225/45ZR-17 tires in front & 275/40ZR-17's in rear. Michelin Pilot Sport tires are amazing performers but I've blown two in less than 10K miles. Hotchkiss suspension parts include anti-sway bars in front and rear as well as control arms. Can't remember who made the coilovers or what else has been done. All suspension credit goes to Barney Squiers in Locust Grove, VA, he figures out a way to lower the car another millimeter or two every time he gets it in the shop. Nothing rubs but at one point I was bottoming out and the exhaust squashed a brake line over the rear axle. Extremely lucky to get that fixed in time...
I'm not sure what the ride height vs stock is, close to 2 inches. Adjustable coil overs front and rear. 275/35/18 front and 305/45/18 rear.
Brent, What size wheels and tires are you running? I like the dog dish hubs and have been considering this style for my '76 Regal, which currently has 18" Boss 338. This car is now 1" lower on all corners (after pic taken). https://scontent.ford1-1.fna.fbcdn....=22d6559b936378797993c286fd3aaab7&oe=5AF54876
The rims are 17x9 with 285/40/17 on the rear and 245/45/17 on the front. The dog dishes are not correct for the year, they are from the mid to late 70's. Thanks Brent
I am using the stock control arms (with new bushings) and the 0.9" taller Pro-Forged upper ball joints for better camber gain. You'd have the same stance with all the factory stuff. Sorry about the slow response, I haven't been on here in forever.