Yeah should have went 1-3/4” but TA said they’d kill the stock 350 in the old car. From what I’ve researched and people I spoke with the 1-5/8” won’t hurt power that much. With current prices new headers will be on the back burner unless the ones in the old car were damaged in the accident. My machinist told me they used to beat the crap out of primary tubes with a hammer to clear on the pro stock cars back in the day and it made no difference.
There was a test on that Hot Rod channel where they dented the headers and a bunch to see if it took power away. it did eventually but it did take a lot. But I would think if you get it dented near the port it has to get hotter in that area I would think and would it disrupt the flow within the pulsing of the other cylinders. Dents are probably ok we all will get them in some place and don't seem to do much, mine on the one side hits the control arm tit cause of my lowered suspension, control arms are closer. I did the 1 3/4 headers but I was geared that way when motor was first built. I had that Jet Hot coating put on there and it lasted a very long time and it does keep things cooler. gsjohnny wants 2" pipes for his monster 350 guess you need that at 7k+ rpm.
I bought a lokar dipstick and that was necessary to make it fit. Didn’t want to put the stock one on wanted a little bling. Lol
Still looking for a shop. The one my friend recommended doesn’t have what’s needed to fit a Buick block to the dyno. I have two other options to see if they can accommodate a Buick block. Just have a few more things to finish before it’s ready. Have a small issue with the balance line to the back of the block for the oiling system. Can’t find a 90° fitting to clear the plate for the bellhousing. Although I have the same oil pressure when primed at the front and back of the block.
My machinist felt it was a good idea. Plus when I prime the motor before starting using the accumulator it will oil the back of the block as well. But if I can’t find a fitting that clears it won’t happen. With all the oiling mods he did I shouldn’t have any issues so it is a bit of overkill. Which is the way my machinist Rich did things.
Finally found a fitting that clears on McMasterCarr is a high pressure miniature stainless steel 90° 1/4” x 1/8” running a 3/16” steel line instead of a -3 steel braided line. Need a few more fittings to complete.
Getting close. Have to have O2 sensor bungs and v-band clamps welded to the new headers. Then I just have to wire ignition and fuel injection. It’s been a busy summer and vacation coming up soon. Dyno tune may have to wait till October after vacation.