I have been tooling around with an idea of doing a real lightweight rotating assembly and heard that it could be possible to get a billet crank at around 55 lbs. I spoke with Velasco - he dont have a foundry for BBB but could make me one, should expect around 5K and 3-4 months. I spoke with Bryant - they dont do BBB - and the guy I spoke with asked in wonder - why do you want to race a Buick? Well, because I am a nuts pucker. Anyone know if Crower or Moldex do lightweight stuff? Or would there be more players I dont know of?
Ken’s is nice,but heavy. I’ve seen a few Crowers,but not sure what they weigh. I had Velasco make me one some years ago with the added counterweight,hollow mains,and some other bells and whistles. It makes my Moldex look like stock junk.
Velasco told me he did not have the program or foundry for a 455? If you had one made it could maybe be possible you could give him a call - maybe he has forgot?
I know of Ken´s but as stated its heavy - and from what I have heard Crower/Moldex is same weight approx?
Brian used to be one of those weirdo oldsmobile guys. He really liked those cars with the 442 ci engines...
TA has several options on their 3" main cranks for weight.. I did get one from them that was 63 lbs. Not sure I would want one lighter than that.. at some point you compromise strength. For a 3.25" main, then you either buy a Molnar crank and have it machined down for weight reduction, or you bend over and grease up.. ya 5K, did he mention the year wait? Now Crower and Moldex can make you a billet, and should be able to machine it down for weight reduction, but did I mention the 5K and the year wait? BTW.. you need to have your rotating assembly designed before you order a crank, so they put enough counterweight on it, to balance it. If you want a really light crank, you need to have a really light piston/rod set up... The silliest thing I see these days is guys obsessing about crank weight, and then having to put heavy metal slugs in the counterweights to balance it. Steel rods have no place in such an engine. If your running steel rods, then I chuckle about your concern about crank rotating weight. And rotating weight in the engine is not a bad thing per se.. it stores a lot of energy during high rpm launches. In fact many guys in stock Eliminator specifically use a Steel flywheel, vs a much lighter aluminum one, because the car ET's better with it. Rotating weight should not be confused with Reciprocating weight. The latter is a much bigger factor, and absolutely essential to keep at a minimum, if your building a top shelf race motor. JW
I’ve had both made. Yes,I have some big-power Olds engines as well. The Buick crank was probably made 12-13 years ago. A 63 pound crank wouldn’t be too bad,if that’s what the Molnar is. Far better than 70-80. I prefer a GRP pro-material aluminum rod. I like to drive my cars,and I haven’t had any issues. Most of my pistons are CP. Everything is custom at this level.
Good info Jim. I am novice and trying to learn and think outside the box. I would never use anything than real light rods/pistons with such a crank. Don´t get me wrong but the 5K would not scare me away and Velasco said around 3 months, so I would assume 6 or more, LOL. Haven´t thought about the rotating weight of course doing some good too. I am just fiddeling with ideas for a future build - thanks for your input.
Jim, have you or know anyone that has reached out to Scat about doing a crank for our Buicks? If you go on their website it looks like they Will do anything custom and claim to be competitively priced. They do have Pontiac listed. Just wondering. Thanks,Tom
Not too much of a fan of Scat,but maybe they have improved over time. You mentioned the Pontiac cranks. Eagle and Scat make the Olds crank by modifying and re-machining the Pontiac crank. Not exactly starting with a clean design.
My Crower from TA is about 64lbs with 8 counterwights, 3" mains, 2.100" rods and balanced for steel rods. (This is a forged crank). I don't think "the juice is worth the squeeze" to go much lighter. As JW said, strength will suffer and you won't see the results on the timeslip. The best scenario would be to get 3,4, maybe more Buick guys together and try to get Sonny Bryant to do a run of Buick cranks. Historically, based on the experience of friends, Sonny Bryant has been reliable on lead times and quality.
So,two companies that have made BBB cranks in the mid-60 pound range. That’s very acceptable when you think about what a stock one weighs. Do any of you have one with hollow mains? That’s why mine is lighter. Otherwise it would be right with those.
Mine is gun drilled and profiled. Mike TA pretty much told Crower what my intention were and they build it accordingly. Back in the day...(2015) it only took 3 months There's a little weight to remove if a guy was running aluminum rods. But I really think the light cramk ship has sailed. Builders are looking for strength and rigidity for stability at RPM.