I want to replace a few bad wires going to the starter and solinoid. I’d prefer not to spice them and replace them completely in the engine compartment. Can those wires be replaced completely to the firewall? Will they pull out of the block on the firewall on a 68 GS? Lots of paint and gunk so I can’t really see how they are fastened. Also, is there much point to adding a linkable fuse? Some tell me to just forget it. Thanks much. Matt
There are several companies that sell complete wiring harnesses, including Year One... Just make sure you're ordering exactly what you need... Sounds like you need the forward engine harness ...
I may do that in the future. For now I’m just going to do a little uncobbling and drive it for the summer. Can wire be pulled out of the block on the firewall? How are they fastened into the block? Or does it always require a new harness? I’d rather not butt join to any old wire.
I purchased correct crimp die set and the correct Packard 56 and other terminals to repair or modify so that things are tidy and "factory appearing". (search for Delphi Packard Gm 56 Series Connector kits and SG Tool Aid SGT18980 Ratcheting Terminal Crimping Kit ). Disconnect the Engine harness connector at the bulkhead, and use the correct thin blade screw driver (or PAC tool if you can find one) to release the locking portion on the terminal and slip the wire out of the connector, then measure, cut wire, crimp terminals, (I use shrink tube with glue) then insert the terminal until it locks. But, unless you are going to do a lot of wire work, the time and money would be more beneficial to buy the harness and swap it with your cobbled mess. The cost is about the same for wire, terminals, tools as a ready to go harness. The time, I would say you could swap the harness in an hour or two, and "rebuilding" will take you about a day. And, yes, to fusible links as appropriate to the circuit. Use a small flat screw driver blade or similar tool to press/squeeze the "hook" inward to release" the terminal from the connector/back shell.
Thank you,I’m thinking I may have tabs like the steering harness. Rather than a fusable link, I’m thibking just put an inline fuse in it up by the intake manifold for easy access.....
The inline fuse should hopefully never be used. There is some good info on installing one in another thread.
I started reading around. Some guys put an inline fuse on but don’t realize about the short term amp spikes that will blow a fuse easily, whereas a fusible link is slow burn. I went with the fusible link at the starter. Stupid thing has a big plastic head on it and that was fun to get a nut around. Weren’t many options at the local parts store. I think my electrical issues are solved with the bare wire, melted insulation, multi-butt joint, numerous gauge and worn out wires replaced.
I also have a true one wire alternator as of last fall. So much simpler and cleaner. Good bye voltage regulator!
Wow, thats a fire waiting for a place to happen! God forbid you had a short, that car would of burned to the ground. So those two red wires are 10 gauge and 12 gauge. They supply power to the car. One is just for the headlights, the other is for everything else. You NEED to run fusible link on each wire. The 10 gauge get a 14 gauge link, and the 12 gauge wire gets a 16 gauge link. Dorman makes them. I have them listed on another thread. You'll need to get a pair of "step down" butt connectors. One side is for a 10-12 gauge wire, the other end is for a 14-16 gauge wire. They work perfectly. If you want to make it look factory, remove the yellow plastic off the butt connector and use a piece of black heat shrink tubing instead.
