So, Im in the research stage of a new trunk floor to replace the pretty much rust to dust one that was in there. I found this on line and wondered if anyone had experience with this place or had suggestions for somewhere else. http://www.rustrepair.com/PANELS/SKYLARK-67-FULL-TRUNK-FLOOR-556880.HTM I would think doing the whole floor in one piece could present problems but I'm sure someone had dealt with that and had answers. Also thinking I would need the braces as well. http://www.rustrepair.com/PANELS/SKYLARK-68-TRUNK-FLOOR-BRACE-556875R.HTM http://www.rustrepair.com/PANELS/SKYLARK-68-TRUNK-FLOOR-BRACE-556875L.HTM Also going to need a patch for the lower driver fender. I hit a vega that pulled out in front of me in the late eighties and found this white fender but it has a rust hole. http://www.rustrepair.com/PANELS/SKYLARK-67-FENDER-REAR-687022L.HTM
Look at the trunk repair instructions on George N’s site. http://www.buickperformanceclub.com/page1.htm
thanks for the heads up. http://www.buickperformanceclub.com/TrunkPan.htm any thoughts on the spray on weld through primer? Has to be Sherwin Williams? Other brands work fine? the national parts depot link for the pan and supports was dead. I'll look for this on a google search.
Interesting thread - I just did a trunk replacement 3 weeks ago and just now saw the link to the George N’s site. Luckily my trunk just had pin holes and not rusted as bad as George’s example. Because my braces we’re in great shape, we drilled out the factory welds from underneath and cut to the inside of the brace to lay the new pan in. So...from under the car, the brace covered the cut line and we only had to worry about blending in the pan inside the trunk. Key is splitting the old trunk pan from the brace. It took two of us a long 3 day weekend from start to finish. I purchased my pan Opgi - I qualified for free shipping with a couple of other things in the basket: https://www.opgi.com/skylark/C980314/ Hope the pics come through? Eric
Did you use a spot weld drill? That and the cutoff grinder can make a lousy job a little more bearable. ws https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pack-of-...er-Remover-Drill-Bits-Cut-Welds-/300879047730
Nah, we just used a normal drill bit. Nothing special - just found the center of the weld spot and drilled through it.
nice work and pix of your project. I am going to order some of those bits for the spot weld . Great suggestion.
The center pin is spring loaded. Center punch the weld and have at it. Easy peazy! Sharp double sided cutters too. Kinda odd on that link tho; the cutters are shown left handed and they arent. ws