So I want to try a throttle body fuel injection setup on my 322 but I need to be able to make it produce at least 250 Hp in order to use the throttle body kit I want. I also need some suggestions on where to find a 4 bbl intake for my engine. All I have right now are 2bbl intakes. So what parts are available out there to spruce up the lowly 322? I don't want to end up putting a Chevy in my Buick.
If you have the original engine in your 55 Special ,its a 264 cu in . I would say start with a 56 322 out of a Century ,Super Or Roadmaster factory rated 255 hp. Some head work cam and Pistons should give you an honest 250 hp Plus Bill
Thanks Bill. Yeah I have two 322 engines. One is supposed to be a 1955 and the other a 56. The 264 that is in it is pretty much toast. The block is cracked and it's a paperweight. I haven't torn into the 322s yet but I'm optimistic for the 56 engine. The heads on the 55 block are in pretty ugly shape. I'll see what is left once I soak those in some Evaporust but hopefully the heads on the 56 will be my usable ones. I posted some pictures of both engines in "Da Nailhead". Perhaps I can use the 55 heads to practice and hone my porting skills. I just need to find where to get quality engine parts for it. I'm interested in a new cam, rockers and lifters new valves and springs, rings and bearings of course, a 4 bbl intake , but what I don't know is where I should go for all that. I'm also not sure whether I should replace the pistons or reuse what I have. (Providing those are good). I know I should replace the rod bolts with new. I know I should not install hardened valve seats. But I don't know if I should replace valve seals and guides and whose parts I should use. I'm really trying to get the right information before I make any purchases or decisions. I'd rather work some overtime and pay a little more for quality parts than have it come apart on me and have to use a Chevy block because I screwed up my Buick block.
Im no expert by any means, but I spent a few years checking into hp numbers and prices when building my 364. The early nailheads aren't power motors. The problem is breathing and displacement. After a x amount of power the price goes through the stratosphere to get more power. Here is the problem. Most generic aftermarket cams are WORSE then factory cams, stock rocker ratios are worse then factory claims, dual 4 intakes are useless unless worked by a expert, the heads are very sensitive and must only be touched by a expert in nailhead head porting (If I understand you can get up to 25% better flow out of the heads). Basically the later 364-401-425 is where most aftermarket performance parts are. The 364 simply because most parts interchange with 401/425. To give you a idea of cost this is my recipe 1959 364 (advertised factory comp 10.5/1, 250 hp (300 with 4 barrel) yeah right) (59 nailheads all had larger valves and better breathing, but still had same hp #s as 57&58?) What I did to it Tear everything down, boil, magnaflux, bore 60 over, resurface the block balance crank (according to machinist it was so close to balance it would pass modern quality check!, but made it perfect anyways) R&R con rods, Egge pistons (stayed with 59 364 60 over pistons (could have put stock 401 pistons, but loose compression) new valve train (new 59-60 401 cam (better breathing then 364 grind), adj pushrods, better valve springs (to rev to 5500), lifters, valve seals on intake only, stainless 1pc valves, R&R Rocker assemblys) stock single 4 barrel intake, stock timing, oil pump, water pump, distributor, 401 4 barrel (still has pedal start, but more CFM) 66 starter and adapter kit to bolt a 65-66 TH400 behind it. The total for everything (anodizing carb, machining, parts, labor, etc) $7,500. I added up every receipt. I even had it dynoed and they weren't as good as I expected 272HP at 5300 rpm (didn't want to push it, but it was still making power), and 380 ft lbs at 2800-3400 rpm. Spending $1000 more I could have bolted roller rockers on that give around 50 more hp, but I have to much in it already. I sold the car I intended to use the motor in and its still sitting in storage 2 years later I want it to go to someone who can use it so I am selling it ($4000 obo), and it will be a bolt in (just swap to stock starter, and flexplate, and take the crank extension off) I can get a video of it running.
I can appreciate the amount of money you spent there but it would take me quite awhile to come up with all that cash at once. I also would like to use a block size that at least came in my year model Buick if possible. Part of my reason for doing this project is to learn and do things myself. I expect it to be a slow journey but I want the pride of saying, "I built that." Ya know? I live near Houston so I have quick access to a large city with a number of machine shops. I'm not sure if there is a Buick specialist out there to do the stuff I don't have equipment for but I really want to do the majority of work myself if possible.
It seems to me that there was a relatively recent magazine article - perhaps in HOT ROD DELUXE about a 322 build that yielded a lot of horsepower. The '56 322 is the best, and it has by far the best exhaust manifolds on the dual exhaust setup.
And would they be worth the expense? I don't need a race ready engine. I just need enough horsepower to handle a throttle body fuel injection setup. I'm looking for a good sounding lope in the cam and exhaust with decent gas mileage for what it is. I'm building a respectable street cruiser here.
The nailhead gets to its peak power at a relatively low RPM. Headers aren't worth the cost for what gain you might get. Avoid reusing the pistons, The original pistons are hand grenades waiting to blow up. Four barrel manifolds are sometimes on EBAY. Also Try ; Russ Martin , Centerville Auto & Nailhead (California) Tom Telesco , Muscle & Classic Automotive (Stamford Connecticut) (TelRiv on this forum) For water pumps , the Flying Dutchman
Long tube headers show great increases in the midrange, or in whatever rpm range their length and size math out to be added to that engine. Short tube headers are often math'ed out of a usable rpm range.
I second everything bhambulldog said. TelRiv on this site makes aftermarker roller rockers and forged pistons for the nailhead (made?), Russ Martin at nailheadbuick.com has alot of hard to find parts and performance repairs, special performance parts, etc. Both guys are the bees knees when it comes to Nailheads. TA Performance also sells roller rockers and other parts for nailheads. By using a 322 I would say the cheapest way to achieve that power would have to include stock dual exhaust manifolds with performance exhaust stock 4 barrel intake carb spacer 4 barrel carb (500-650 CFM) Mild cam (only let TA, Tom, or Russ advise on a grind) light porting and cleaning heads any pistons other then factory! roller rockers would also be a easy/cheap way to ensure getting to the 250 mark. stiff valve springs (so you can rev the motor 5500 w/out valve float, and take advantage of a mild/light street cam) The roller rockers, valve springs, and cam would work hand in hand. I can see with the 3 a easy 50hp there given enough CFM in and good exhaust. Russ has a bunch of pages about easy HP and tech tips for those building nailheads http://nailheadbuick.com/ scoll over tech info and you will find plenty of power tips
click below: 56 Buick Performance That's how it was done in the past, but most of the parts are not available. But note the result of the changes good and bad and the fact that 54/55 heads on a 56 will result in higher compression (but maybe piston interference). Tell us about the throttle body you intend to use...if it works on a 250hp engine is should work on a 200 or 300hp engine. The 3.6 gears in your Special will give better throttle response than the 3.4 gears that were behind the 322 in other models. If you want more install the 3.9 gears from a standard transmission car; which you will need if you do a lot of porting and install a performance cam both of which will raise the hp and torque curves a few hundred rpm.
Thanks guys! I really appreciate you educating me on this stuff. I have been reading Russ Martin's page all night (night shifting). There is so much to learn. Lol I'm really excited though. You guys are great!
I don't know if Tom Telesco can get pistons for the 322 - I think he needs orders for a certain number of sets, but his pistons for the 425s are excellent. They are so beautifully made that I wanted to order a ninth piston just to put on display! Tom talked me out of it. I do second everything that has been said about factory pistons. At 100,000 miles they need to go. The '56 dual exhaust manifolds will give you the most bang for the buck.
