I don't know if it would look good 6" lower in the rear... I would go with a set of stock replacement springs and I think that you would be happy with that.
Yea I don't think I would drop it that much just saying because I'm 3" high at the moment If I dropped 3" below stock height that would be a 6" drop. Which seems like heaps in regard to the geometry of the drive shaft. Dose any one now how to set up the diff to drive shaft angle ? In the manual it says to set up a string line of a jig that bolts to the back of the diff cover and then measure off that but I don't have said jig so is there a easy way to do this set up? Do I just line up the centre of the drive shaft to the centre of the diff coupling ?
It looks exactly like the rear end and drive shaft under my Riv. I even tried to straighten it out using that adjustment mentioned above. Made little difference. It rides well and theres no vibration. Good catch. I didn't even see that the first time scanning through the pics yesterday. Id think with that spacer in there the center bering mount would not line up with the bolt holes in the tunnel.
Thats definitely not the factory CV on the end of that driveshaft. There are two distinctly different flange setups on Riviera driveshaft and rear axles. And they DONT interchange. So you cant put a driveshaft from a 68 Riv in a 69 Riv. But if you make an adapter flange.... I would be skeptical if that rear was original to that car.
Seems like that would be more trouble than just fixing or getting the correct shaft. Butttt, I've seen stranger things.
The PY stamp on the axle tube is the smoking gun that says it is the original '67, unless another year used the same stamp. See above for the explanation about the unusual CV joint. Devon
It's not an adaptor it's a 12mm spacer because the CV's where "fatter" it came really close to the diff bolt like almost hitting so it was decided to space it off a bit to keep it off the bolt . This car has been in NZ since 1967 so I'm finding some things have been changed probably because it's hard to find authentic parts . Still interested in some more opinions on setting up the drive shaft / diff alignment . Matt ---------- Post added at 09:09 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:06 AM ---------- The bolting pattern is the same in the drive shaft and diff . Bolts go straight through spacer. Just a aluminium ring with holes in it .
Matt, that's all spelled out in the '67 Chassis Manual. If you don't have one, the link to the PDF index is here: http://www.teambuick.com/reference/library/67_chassis/index.php Devon
Thanks I have the manual but it says to use a kind of jig that you attach a string line to which I don't have and because the car is 3" higher than stock then this would make this method wrong wouldn't it or do I need to read it again .
Does anyone have a photo of what a properly set up drive shaft / diff should look like from side on ?
From your last photos everything looks fine, the pinion and driveline appear to share the same centerline, or close to it. The illustration on page 40-38 of the manual shows this. If all the rear suspension bushings and the body bushings are in good shape, then the car must have seen some spirited driving before you got it to have shown that scrub mark on the floor pan. Devon
If that spacer is moving everything forward, wouldn't the trans yoke then bottom out under compression ? and then the CV joint would be the only place deflection could occur ?
Nope, the slip is handled by a joint at the center carrier bearing, and they have a lot of range. Devon
Hi all, Matt I just had a quick look under my 66, the under body has underseal on it and it appears I have the same problem, I can see underseal on the most forward flange on the cv joint and faint marks on the underbody. My suspension im sure has never been modified so I think the problem is that the original rubber joints are all shot. I can see evidence of this when looking closely at some of the cracked shabby looking rubbers. Are yours all original or have they been replaced? cheers Joe ps My set up looks the same as yours.
I don't know if my rubbers have been replaced I suspect not I'll have to check. But when I jaked it up it nothing hit that shouldn't .
Matt I wonder if the diff is actually rotating under power causing the front input shaft end to lift up? I cant say ive ever heard my one rubbing. just a thought. One day after a motor rebuild I would like to order from the States a rear end rebuild kit. I also noticed my tyres sometimes rub on my exhaust pipes ( shiney patches), yet stationary theres at least 30-40 mm clearance so obviously there is a lot of movement goin on under there. Maybe we could get together and order two sets, save on shipping? Have to do some research costs etc. Cheers Joe