You know Jason, you may have actually won me over with this post. I don't see a problem with switching/upgrading to newer or better parts if they serve a purpose. I don't have a problem with people running EFI conversion kits, disk brakes, HEI or one wire alternators on their classic cars. I don't run any of these because I prefer the classic, unmolested look of my drum brakes, Quadrajet and external regulated alternator. The one thing I have done though, is change out the points with a crane set up. You can't tell the difference with the cap on unless you really look hard for those two wires. I've convinced myself that it's an upgrade over the points and makes the car more reliable/ easier to maintain. The funny thing is, I enjoy tinkering with the carb and timing. I'm sure I'd enjoy doing th epoints from time to time as well. Considering it's my goal to see exactly how fast I can get a true 69 Stage1 using stock parts, I think a conversion back to points is in order. :idea2:
I'm going to half way agree with you here IF the car is new enough to have a dual reservoir. Cars like my 64 are in need of at least an upgrade of the existing drum system to a newer master cylinder for safety even if you leave the rest of the drivetrain alone. The drum brakes do the job they were intended to do, but disc brakes do work better. That is the whole reason they went to them. As for the logic that the brakes that came on a car were designed for that car and should be good enough and safe, tell that to anyone driving a model A ford down a steep hill!! The brakes kept getting better because it makes the car safer. Hydraulic brakes, Power brakes, disc brakes, anti lock brakes. All improvements to keep us safe. Another reason to upgrade the brakes is simply because you put a new engine in that way out performs the original engine, or adds a lot of weight. Lots of good reasons to upgrade brakes and I'll never knock someone for spending a few bucks on trying to keep them self and the family safe.
well all I know is that my points gave me nothing but trouble when I first bought the car, any cold damp morning it would run like it was missing on 7 out of 8 cylinders until it was fully warm. I did not like it running like that, so I got the ignition box with the msd pro billet distributor. I will never go back to points on any car again. There was a very noticeble power difference, and it didn't matter whether the car was in a heated garage when I started it cold, or buried under 20 feet of snow, ran like a clock with no wimpy starts period. And now that I have it, ill just change the gear and I can use it on my big block too!
That also applies to a 4,100lb `67 Hemi Coronet RT!! There's no way drum brakes will stop that car from 130+mph, or even slow it down much. No need to ask how I know that. And was that really a police car behind me? :grin:
Sometimes there is a GOOD reason for changing out working parts. My drum brakes worked just fine. However, they needed to be cut to make them round again, but they were at the limit already. And replacements are very hard to find. Plus, dropping anchor at 105MPH after going through the traps was scary at best. Thank God for tracks with a long shut down lane. No, I'll keep my disc brakes, thank you.
Dave- Good point. If its a safety issue, then yes. Changing a single reservoir to a dual would be something I wouldnt think twice about. My comments were more directed at "our" cars. 4 wheel power drum brakes on ours cars do a fine job IMO. The I didnt take into account Model A's and those type of cars. As as I stated in my prior post, there are good reasons to upgrade to discs. Every time I go through the traps with my 71 at over 100 mph, I feel better knowing the car has factory discs. I dont condemn Yards for switching over. I would too if I had a 12 second 4600lb missle on my hands. As far as my 70 Stage 1, its got drums. They stop the car perfectly. Nice and straight too. You probably wouldnt be able to tell its had drums. I see no good reason to remove them other than to waste 600 bucks. I can think of 10 other things I could spend that money on that do need attention on my car. In day to day driving, the 70 and the 71 stop equally well. Plus I like seeing those gorgeous aluminum drums up front through the wheels. :TU: Changing parts is Ok, just have a good reason to- worn, broken, missing etc. Not just because its dirty or old. And diagnose:Smarty: . Break out the test equipment first, not the wrenches. Dont just start throwing parts at a problem till it goes away.
Post #3 on this issue. The question is what is the purpose of the car? If it's a restoration - ya gotta leave it stock, points and all. I bought an older Corvette and I yanked the terrific aftermarket stereo that had been installed, and tracked down an original 8-track that the car had been equipped with originally. My '82 Chevy pickup (riding on an '86 GMC chassis) powered by a 431 cu. in. nailhead is hardly stock. I'll do what I want to it just for the sake of doing it. It's my hobby and my fun. I'm heading down to the shop now to finish pulling the transmission, just to neaten up some earlier work that doesn't come up to my standards. Then I'll install my tubular upper control arms (nothing wrong with the stamped ones, I just think the tube's will be stronger and much prettier). Anyone know where I can get some "rustproof" stainless steel alignment shims? Nothing wrong with my stock cast-iron intake manifold, but I hope Marty at Eelco gets the aluminum ones out soon. I've been bugging him... Changing parts on my truck just for the sake of changing them is a blast. :grin:
Drum Vs. Disc brakes: An interesting issue. Discs are much less susceptible to fade, but there is no reason why in a single stop that drum brakes should be inferior to discs. Power assist is not the reason for the slow adoption of discs - power brakes were first available on American cars in 1928. BTW: Do you know that there is no reason that cars of the 1920s could not have been air conditioned? Everything necessary to air condition a car had been invented by 1920. I guess that it took nearly another 30 years for the idea to occur to manufacturers.
Sure, they could make refridgerator, but put it in a car and drive 10k miles over rough roads and that 'fridge' would be junk. Vibration is the scourge of any ac system. Leaky seals at the line connections is the biggest problem. I don't know about you, but if you have ever had to make a quick stop from 90 to 20, you are screwed, the drums will get you down to about 60 or so, and then they are useless. Sure, let 'em cool off for 3 min, you will be ok, but not in a panic stop.
My monster factory drums have brought me to a safe stop from the hundred-teens in the 1/4. Of course I got teased a lot for having to take the very last turn off at the end of the track. When it's in the budget, I will have aftermarket front discs with appropriately large rotors, calipers and pads. Devon
How about ropin' your pal into helping you change your converter on the trailer at the track to see if you can pick up a tenth. :bla:
I am still steamed about the factories going to the ''multi- function switch'' instead of the simple dimmer switch on the floor.... The reason that factories change stuff is.. cheaper,,,, make it so that you have to bring the car to the dealer to get it worked on,,, or to sell more parts,,, to induce you to buy new cars,,,parts,,, accessories.......
Doc X 2 on the "multi-function" switch. I wish that they would put the damn dimmer switch back on the floor where God intended it to be!:blast:
Evidently you weren't around when the magazines were testing the cars before disc brakes were standard equipment. The brake fade issue was discussed. During the tests the brake fade usually occurred after the second hard braking attempt. If what you are saying is true my race car would still be stuck in the pucker brush off the end of a drag strip somewhere.:laugh: Bob H.
I gotta say that the big 12" Centerplane drum brakes on my '62 Chrysler 300s (both of them) would haul these big cars down from 100+ mph speeds with no trouble whatsoever. I never attempted repeated stops from high speed, so I can't say anything about fade.The 300H had power assist, the "regular" 300 came with PB, but I removed the booster as it really wasn't necessary, and made it a PIA to check the brake fluid. The booster was located above the master cylinder! To those of you not familiar with the Lockheed-designed Centerplane brakes used by the MOPAR crowd, they used two wheel cylinders per side on the fronts, and one in the rears. The fronts had "servo action" only going forward. You wanted to be a little careful about your speed in reverse - the Centerplane-equipped Mopars took substantially more distance to stop in reverse then they did going forward. I think 1962 was the last year for Centerplanes at Chrysler.
Never seen anyone try to adjust points with the engine runningp Crane XRI was the way to go,but now ill just use Mallory points/cap/rotor..HEI's are just too ugly! My drums work just fine for the way i drive it,but the master was changed to dual for safety.I had plenty of other places to drop $600-$1000:laugh:
