Watch your unsprung weight. A light wheel and tire combo, and a disc brake setup will quicken you up a bit.
Thanks for posting this. When installing electric fans, what needs to be done to keep them from sucking the life out of the battery? Bigger alternator?
Yep , a good alt. is the basis for electrical systems, you need the battery that will handel the drain and a alt that will out do the drain....
What size alternator comes stock on the 66 Riv's, and what size should I get? I recently had the alternator rebuilt by a local shop. Would it be possible that they could beef it up while retaining the housing for original appearance?
Brian, the amperage rating is stamped on the side of the alt,,,, and in 66 was probably around 65 or less.... yes they can usually built to raise the amps....while we are on alternators there is the cheap trick of putting a toggle switch on the field wire that kills the alt while you are drag racing to gain back the power drain that it has.... Sarge , what part of it is broke.... kind of hard to figure a solution without knowing that... if it is the bronze plunger you can make one of ordinary brass.. the plastic bushings are more of a challenge...may have to break out the old dremel tool and dental tools and make some parts....
some of the buicks came with alluminum drums does any body run these on there cars ??? it helps with wieght
HOW DO I KNOW IF MY 70 GS 455 HAD A SWITCH PICTH TRANS? THANKS FOR THE HELP I RAN A 9.949 @77.8 MPH IN THE 1/8 NOW THAT I FIXED A FEW THINGS AND ADDED SOME THINGS OFF YOUR LIST I HOPE TO DO BETTER CAN YOU BELIEVE I WAS RUNNING A 390 CFM CARB? HOPE TO DO BETTER WITH THE 850 CFM SWAP AND THE CRANK CASE BEING VENTED RIGHT. ALSO WENT FROM A 225-60-14 TIRE TO A 295-50-15 SHOULD GRAB ALSO ON THE IN TAKE THE PARTS THAT YOU SAID TO CUT OUT COULD YOU POST A PIC PLEASE SO I GET IT RIGHT. IM A BIT CONFUSED ON THAT :3gears:
Normally, the converter switch is wired to idle (can use the same lead as the neutral safety switch), the brake (brake light switch) and WOT (micro-switch on the throttle linkage). Now you have clean idle in neutral at rest (safety switch), in drive at rest (brake switch) and hard acceleration. However: converter stall speed and torque multiplication pretty much stops when the car speeds up, so you only have it once (although you'll get a bit more shift slippage o the 1-2 and 2-3). Here's the general manifold idea. One carb flange is done, one isn't.
Figured it out Doc. It was the ground. Evidently where it is placed (steering column near the power steering box) I couldn't find very easy. All fixed.
Sarge, the horn relay is hot all the time and grounding it with the horn button/ring is what makes them blow....