Was wondering if my SP-2 intake will fit flat on my 462 " zero deck block" without having to mill the ends on the intake manifold. I'm using TA stage 1 track eliminator heads. Thanks for any info. o No:
Absolutely, test fit everything always. :TU: I think it should be fine. Make sure to check for any steps where the intake runner meets the intake port of the head. Step will be on top and opposite on bottom of runner. You'll probably need a thinner gasket in order to allow the intake to sit lower. If this is the case you won't be able to use the endseal gaskets on the intake and will have to use RTV. TA sells different thickness composite gaskets in order to correct this situation. As with anything machining is always an option for excessive difference. Steve
You will have to cut the intake side of the heads, but there is no set amount, as everything varies.. since your cutting, do yourself a favor and use the .062 TA intake gasket in your mockup. If you don't mind a little extra expense, when you do your final mock up to check your fit on the intake, simply measure what you have for end rail gap, and have the rails of the block cut to achieve aprox .200 gap. Use the pins and the end rail seals (TA sells these sperately) and it will fit together and seal up.. with just a dab of sealer in the corners.. I do it all the time.. Here is one in the DCM overhead mill, during a mock up for just this proceedure..
Forgot to add that the short block is already assembled. I don't mind cutting the intake ends but I don't want to cut on the heads. If I do that won't that make the heads only usuable on a zero deck block? I don't know how far down in the bore a standard (not zero decked block) the pistons usually are but would it not make a zero deck block (using a .062) head gasket close to what a non zero decked block is? This motor has Poston Hypereutectic pistons installed in it now. Can you recommend some other options other than cutting on the heads? Thanks in advance.
Alternatively, you could spend time port matching the difference. I’d port match either way, even if you decide to do more milling to compensate. Since the intake ports on the head will drop, you’d have to raise the roof on the head’s intake ports a bit, and drop the floor on the intake (optional). You’ll still have to watch the bolt hole and front/back intake seal as well. You might get away with this unless there’s simply too much mismatch and you’re not material-safe. And you’re right...it doesn’t make sense to take a ton of material off either the block or head deck surfaces, only to put it right back with a thick head gasket! Jim was not referring to the head gasket, but rather the TA composite intake gaskets. Devon
Your correct, I mis-read the .062 and was thinking head gasket not intake gasket. Let me ask this question though. Could I not use a thicker head gasket to restore what was cut off the block to zero deck it? I bought this short block already assembled and I don't care about increased compression. I'm a bracket racer so I don't care if the car runs (1/8 mile) 7.50 or 7.00. I'm just looking for the best solution to make everything fit with the least amount of problems and get this car up and running again. This Buick stuff is driving me crazy, now I know why Mike at Automotive Machine & Performance told me they don't fool with zero decking much. I can see why people take the easy way out and build Chevy's, I did for the past 10 years. Thanks for any help.
By all means you can use a thick head gasket to get back to where you need to be. TA carries them all the way up to 0.120", I believe the brand is Cometic. Devon
Thanks for the rapid response. Now all I need to know is how much was the piston down in the bore on a standard block (not zero decked)? Thanks
.045 sounds correct. I didn't want to 0 deck my block but I did have .005 cut of to square them. Pistons were .040 in the hole afterwards. Steve
My advice would be to use a head gasket that will give you optimal quench. Going to a thicker head gasket just to not have to mess with port alignment just seems bass-ackwards to me. Off the top of my head, I do not know what the optimal quench number is, but do a search here and you will find it. Your block is already zero-decked. Use that to your advantage. Get the combustion chambers right, and mill/port match the intake as needed. I understand the bracket racer/don't care about compression thing (I'm of the same frame of mind myself) but you are throwing away free power and increasing the chance of detonation by not going to optimal quench, when you have the option to make it right. Milling or port matching an aluminum intake is not a big deal.