Briz, Your pressure regulator on the oil pump stuck on cold start.. notice that all the pleats on the filter are pushed out... the oil pressure bloated the housing before it split it apart. Must have been over 100 psi... seen this more than a few times.. Not a filter problem QC issue. Same thing happened on your other motor I am sure.. that time the pressure regulator was stuck closed, as opposed to stuck open like it was when we were working with it here. Pull the 1" plug off the oil pump housing and remove the valve, makes sure it's spotlessly clean. Lube it with oil and install it. I am assuming you have the 455 housing still.. if you have the 350/V6 housing, then you may have the wrong spring in it.. that housing uses the shorter springs that come in the oil pump kit. Either issue, stuck valve or wrong springs, will cause the same thing..bloated and then exploded oil filter. No question about this.. JW
I had pressure relief stick in BG one year after winning a few rounds....pegged the 100psi gauge when I was warming it up in the staging lanes. Was able to extract the stuck valve by sticking my pinkie in it and pulling it out (magnet would have worked also). Cleaned it and deburred it never stuck again. If I had made a pass it could have been ugly.
Well I'm at the track and the Fram Racing HP5 primes much quicker than the WIX. Like 1/2 second hot vs 3 seconds with the WIX pos. And this is with a motor that has 9 seasons of racing under it's belt. Also you can get HP5 on Amazon for $10.30 free ship right now. I wouldn't shy away from Fram due to their cheap filter reviews. This filter is heavy case and well made. Since low restriction it may not filter out the finest particles but flow especially on a race engine is important.
I take back my earlier statement that the M1-107a is a fix for the issue I have. When I ran at the track on Saturday, I had a slow build up of oil pressure on start up after the car sat for about 3 hours. Hard for me to outright blame the Mobile 1 filter, but I am done beating around the bush and will order a K&P filter. Even if it isn't the solution for my problems, it will at least elminate the hassle of determining of which filter brand is currently best.
I don’t blame you, right when you think you have a quality filter going, BAM quality nosedives, then we’re back to asking “which filter is best “
Was going to look up this thread and add to it so its good timing she came back to the top. The Riv has been parked for several weeks until Sunday morning when I decided to take her to church. Its my habit to prime up the carb after its been sitting awhile. Did that, closed the hood and it fired off first click of the key. No OP, rattles for 2-3 secs , picks up pressure and quiets down. After church... its only bee setting 1.5 hours, same thing. This is a new Wix with under 1000 miles on it. OK, I'm over this. Stop by O'Reilly's, ordered a Masterguard + upgraded store brand filter. Went and picked it up at 3. Keep in mind the cars cool and only been setting about 4 hours. Spin off the Wix 51528 and no oil comes out. Dump it into the clean drain pan and maybe 1/2 cup of oil. WTH! Filled and installed the new one, fired off the car. Once pressure comes up I shut it down and go about my day. 6:30 comes around and Im closing up the shop reach in and fire the Riv, OP comes up immediately. No noise no death rattle. Gonna cut apart the Wix to see if I can determine the issue.
I had that issue awhile back with the AC PF24, remove filter, no oil in it, never did figure out what the issue was, it was random, but always happened with a PF24 installed
My K&P S16 filter arrived today. Super cool piece. They have a picture of a Mitsubishi Diamond jet on the label and I can vouch for the fact that this thing certainly looks like an aviation quality part. The twist lock setup to remove the filter element is awesome. Honestly, this thing looks like it will be less work to clean and reinstall than dealing with trying to drain a standard disposable oil filter. I'm going to clean it up, throw a few coats of Buick Red on and hopefully not think about this oil filter problem again. Might even grab a few of these for some of my other cars.
Same here, I'd leave it. But if you do want to paint it, it must be prepped and primed properly. Zinc chromate primer works well with aluminum......
I guess leaving it alone will look better than peeling red paint after 2 weeks of use I should have sprung for black anodized. As you can tell by the rest of my engine bay, this filter will be the nicest/shiniest part in it.
There's more surface area than NOT using that filter, so...yes. That's even a part of K&P's advertising. But not very much, since the "fins" are poorly shaped for heat dissipation. I bet you can't tell the difference without a very sensitive/accurate/repeatable gauge. And, of course, the amount of heat removed will dramatically vary depending on how much airflow is in contact with the filter housing; which will vary depending on where the filter is mounted, and how the chassis/radiator/ducting-spoilers-air scoops are set-up I'd be scared to death to run one of those. How could you possibly know if you've "cleaned" the filter mesh? It's not like you can see 20-micron particles. Even if you can "see" 35 micron particles, would you NOTICE them, trapped in a mesh once the liquid, discolored oil has been washed off of 'em? [Typical human visual acuity is 6--29 microns, largely dependent upon age. Kids see better than adults. This becomes painfully obvious starting around age 40--45-ish.] https://biology.stackexchange.com/questions/26189/whats-the-smallest-size-a-human-eye-can-see
Looks like rated at 35 microns How does this type of filtration compare to paper oil filters? We use ASTMF316 testing procedures which eliminate many of the user variables found in the SAE procedures. Basically, the filter media is pressurized from one side, and when the media starts passing particles, that is the micron rating. We sent filter media from several common brands of paper filters to the lab to be run through the ASTM test. We sent the media to the lab with no names, just numbers for identification so they wouldn’t have any idea what brand filter they were testing. The results for the paper filters ranged from 48 microns for the best filter to over 300 microns for the worst filter. Our tests were right in line with other testing results we have researched that have paper media filters passing particles anywhere between 50 and 90 microns. What does this mean? Paper filters are rated on averages, percentages of efficiency (also known as beta ratios) and multiple passes, so a 10 micron rated paper filter (as advertised on the packaging) may be letting particles 50 microns and larger through. The medical grade stainless steel cloth that we use is consistent across the entire media surface and is rated at 35 microns, meaning nothing larger than 35 microns should pass through the material. The bottom line is we meet or exceed the filtration performance of OEM filters, eliminating any warranty issues.
I personally don't think this filter is going to catch more material than a high quality paper filter. My reasoning for buying it is consistency. It is getting old having to worry about who makes a halfway decent filter. If this filter primes immediately as K&P claims and I have no more valvetrain clatter on cold starts, it will be worth it to me. As for cleaning the filter, this is the same type of filter media used in most jet engines. It is designed to be regularly inspected and cleaned without issue. I don't think spraying it with brake cleaner would be the ideal method though. Either a parts washer or an ultrasonic cleaner are going to be the way to go here.
On a street strip car you could run a finer media filter and run this at the track. That way you would clean the oil of the finer stuff while cruising on the street. Actually there shouldn't be that much stuff floating around in an engine anyway unless it has an issue or neglected oil changes for years.... The fact that a lower restriction filter will bypass less is a great feature.
