Winter 2020 (Now Spring 2023) 350 Fresh-Up Project

Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by knucklebusted, Mar 13, 2021.

  1. Mart

    Mart Gold level member

    Check those aluminum rockers for wear inside and on shaft if you are planning to use them.
    Can't believe they wouldn't have wear at 92k.
    My 71 alum rockers & shafts were replaced free by GM with the stamped steel version under silent recall, when I only had 46k on it.
    Gotta luv that 5yr/50k warranty. :D
     
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  2. walts72

    walts72 Well-Known Member

    Looks like a good platform to start a build typical 92 k motor
     
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  3. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    OK, everything is torn down. Crank has some discoloration but not what I'd consider hot spots or bearing failure. Bearings mostly look good but every rod bearing has a shiny spot on the top center. Any idea what causes that or is it normal? Pistons were .051 in the hole, head gaskets were .040. Number 4 rod was harder than the rest to get off AND harder to get back on once it was out of the bore. Pistons came out with little issue.

    Rocker shafts had a lot of scoring. Rocker tips had some wear.

    More pics to review.
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  4. Mart

    Mart Gold level member

    Looks very good/normal.
    So what are your plans besides headers? Bore w/ new .030 pistons? Or just hone & ring job? New bearings & crank polish or turn all journals?
    Run your fingernail across main & rod journals to feel how smooth they are. You may get by with polishing.
     
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  5. walts72

    walts72 Well-Known Member

    X2 looks good get her cleaned up new cam bearings freeze plugs check the crank polish or grind if needed above all take your time.
     
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  6. alec296

    alec296 i need another buick

    Looks decent. I personally like to open up the oil pickup passage and get the bigger pickup tube.
    I would consider.025 off block deck to bump compression a bit. Bring that piston up to deck alittle more.
     
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  7. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    It feels pretty smooth. I'm hoping for just a ball hone, rering, rebearing, regasket and a valve job with a TA 212 cam and springs. If it needs boring and crank turned, I'll probably swap to 455. I have a spare one that just needs a pan gasket and already has an aluminum intake.

    Not in a hurry. I've had the hood off since last year and worked on it as I could to take things loose and drain fluids.

    That's one of my goals, get the oiling improved, a mild cam and shave it a bit if it will spec out without a lot of other work.

    Pistons are currently .051 in the hole. With the .040 head gasket, it should have been about 8.2:1 CR. With a shave of the heads, .020 off the block and a steel shim head gasket, it would be almost 8.9.
     
  8. Mart

    Mart Gold level member

    You might want to try and find .001 tighter main bearings. Mic journals and bore gage torqued down mains to see what clearances you have.
    The .001 are hard to find but with a polished crank, you will tighten the clearances back up towards Buick specs and keep your oil pressure up. You could even run a mix of half standard bearing and half .001
    Seems the replacement main bearings are never as thick as the factory GM400's. Guess they expect you to align hone the mains every time.
     
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  9. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    I don't have any mics, only a set of calipers. I could get a rough estimate but not precise enough for my tastes. I will see.

    BTW, in my research, I'm seeing that Buick rod bearings are the same as Pontiac? and odd-fire V6? Is that true?
     
  10. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

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  11. Mart

    Mart Gold level member

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  12. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    I'm having a hard time getting the machine shop guy to call me back. I haven't even dropped it off yet. I'm going to use some plastigage to see how the crank/rods are for rough clearance and shop around for another shop. I see some places sell the .001 and even .002 rod and main bearings.

    I'm thinking:
    • Drill oil feed and pick up to 1/2"
    • Massage front cover to match
    • Clean block with new freeze plugs and TA cam bearings
    • Buy bigger oil pickup
    • New neoprene seals, gasket set
    • New rod/main bearings
    • New rings and honed cylinders
    • New cam, lifters, valve spring, likely TA 212 or slightly hotter
    • Head job
    • Resurface stock flywheel
    If it needs boring, major head work or a crank ground, it will be put on hold and the 455 will likely go in. I have everything but headers and a flywheel for a big block swap.

    Any reason not to follow this reasoning? I was hoping to keep a simple gasket/ring at around $1,000. I figure I can buy a flywheel and headers for a 455 for that.
     
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2021
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  13. alec296

    alec296 i need another buick

    Looks pretty good.
     
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  14. Dano

    Dano Platinum Level Contributor

    I sure hope you can see to get the 350 together. I'd hate to see another 350 4-sp car go the 455 route - So few of them left. Could probably even pick up a good running used 350 for even less than 455 headers & a flywheel if it came down to that & then sell it when the original (?) engine is done. Only thing that might need to be done would be to drill/tap for a ball stud ream the end of the crank for a pilot bushing. I have an engine here that I'm pretty sure runs decent. I have no way to check it, but heck, you're welcome to borrow it until yours is done. I can also bring mics & a bore gauge w/me to BG next month if need be but plastigage is surprisingly accurate and crank main/rod journals can be polished by hand.

    I would think the cylinders would also need honing to add to the machining list (or do by hand). Orig. pistons could be coated to take up a little space if need be (I've run bigger clearances than specs allow w/no problem but...). The only other thing I'd consider would be instead to get new cast pistons & up the compression & also balancing (IMHO it makes a difference - How much, idk). Idk what a set of 3.0 flat tops runs (avail in slightly oversize?) but I just checked & a set of Sealed Power .030 10:1's are about $350 @ Summitt - Idk if they make them in std. bore but maybe someone has a good set out of a '70. That's what I'm going to do on my '71 350 and other than that, plan on a similar build to what you're doing. I was fortunate enough to just pick up a new set of the Sealed Power. 030's/bearings/rings pretty inexpensively. It is missing one cyl. of rings if anyone has a spare set although I have yet to open up either of the original & supposedly rebuilt 350's that came w/my cars. Maybe I'll be pleasantly surprised and they're both chock-full of good parts:) (I doubt it).

    I suspect the machine shops are pretty backed up. Between ppl finally getting to their projects, workers being out sick, government paying ppl m/l not to work, & screwed up supply chains, everything is behind right now.
     
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2021
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  15. alec296

    alec296 i need another buick

    You mentioned milling block and using the steel shim head gasket to make about 9.0 compression, some quality port work ,get some good flow. Then a decent cam for lower mid, and mid range power. Should be strong . 280hp or better 365 or better torque.
     
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  16. Dano

    Dano Platinum Level Contributor

    Idk if it matters to Greg (or on any 350 tbh) &/or if this is the original engine, but there are some codes, etc. stamped onto the deck surface that milling would eliminate. The VIN should be stamped into the front of the block.
     
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  17. Mart

    Mart Gold level member

    You get zero H.P. from those numbers. Only good for talking about.:D
     
  18. Dano

    Dano Platinum Level Contributor

    Lol.
     
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  19. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    I give up, is a numbers-matching 350 4-speed car worth more with those numbers on the deck? How much difference does it make?
     
  20. Mart

    Mart Gold level member

    The price of the deck machining:D
     
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