Winter 2020 (Now Spring 2023) 350 Fresh-Up Project

Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by knucklebusted, Mar 13, 2021.

  1. Dano

    Dano Platinum Level Contributor

    Go on MSC Direct or McMaster Carr & you'd have one tomorrow.
     
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  2. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    Yeah, pretty good shape.

    Where's the best place to get good rings, gaskets? I'm definitely getting cam bearings, cam, lifters and front/rear seals from TA. But, I don't need race bearings and race rings.

    Is the stuff at RockAuto consistently good? Brands aren't the ones I've seen sometimes. Is Egge any good? They have some 0.001 bearings that I might need to account for polishing the journals. Earlier, someone referenced mixing std and 0.001 undersized to tune clearances.

    So, doing it right but doing it as economically as possible.
     
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  3. Mart

    Mart Gold level member

    I use these 2 pc seals from Summit.
    You can get front seals from Rock or Autozone, etc.
     

    Attached Files:

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  4. Mart

    Mart Gold level member

    Got a Jason Cook deal off evilbay for abt $45 for the Fowler made in Japan, not china, 1" to 4" set.:) Lady's husband passed and hardly used the mics at all.:)
    The Fowler .0001 dial bore was somewhat reasonable too.
     
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  5. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    It came with the side pieces too or you bought a regular rope seal kit to get those?
     
  6. Mart

    Mart Gold level member

    Think I had spares laying around with all my other junk.:D
    Side seals didn't come with the 2 pc mains.
     
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  7. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    Well, I've discovered you can't trust RockAuto. I was about to order bearings and rings when I noticed the kit parts speced a 4.00" ring for a stock Buick 350. I knew it was too good to be true.

    As I started researching more part numbers, more of them turned out to be SBC! How can you select Buick 1971 GS 350 and wind up with Chevy parts? They never installed an SBC in a Buick in 1971!

    Now I don't trust them at all. Maybe the oil pump wear plate and the rocker arms that I can see look right but I'm skittish on the rest of it.
     
  8. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut

    Yes if you want the rear main seal complete ready to use then order it from TA. Or you can order the same main neoprene seal from anywhere (460 ford application), and then find a stock rear main seal kit that has the blocks and pins for the side.
     
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  9. 64 skylark mike

    64 skylark mike Well-Known Member

    Order the rear main kit from T/A. It is complete, and was cheaper than buying the ford 460 seal from NAPA by itself, when I got mine. I had both side by side and they were made by the same company with same part # molded on them.
     
  10. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    I'm starting to get depressed. Retired and time to work on my car but nobody can get any of my machine work done. The Harbor Freight mics and bore gauges were a bust. I measured three times and 2 out of three the crank was bigger than the bearings! I could not get repeatable measurements.

    All the while, I keep tripping over my intact and running-when-pulled, mildly-cammed 455. I can see the look on its intake and water pump, like it is saying, "Put me in, coach! I'm ready to play!"

    I'm at $500 in bearings and gasket parts from Rock Auto. That's not counting the rocker shafts, valve springs, cam and lifters I need from TA. I still need the heads freshened and a new clutch and pressure plate while it is apart.

    By my calculations, I'm looking at something over $1300. If I bought an 11" clutch and pressure plate instead of the SBB 10.5" and a 455 flywheel, I could have the 455 ready by GS Nats time.

    Sadly, if I go 455, there isn't a chance in hell I'm swapping back to a SBB. I'm resisting the urge but my resolve is weakening.
     
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  11. Mart

    Mart Gold level member

    Don't get discouraged, it's all been done before...:)
     
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  12. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    I have a cousin with his own mill and lathe in his private shop. He has built steam engines and small cannons. It isn't an auto machine shop though but I'm hopefully he has some decent measuring devices.

    He is going to loan me a 16" long 1/2" drill bit. He also offered to help me with anything else he can do in his shop. Crossing my fingers.
     
  13. Dano

    Dano Platinum Level Contributor

    You'll undoubtedly run into issues w/ the 455 swap (frame mounts, fan shroud, etc.). Hate to see such a rare car go that route.

    Step back and just resolve it won't be ready for Nationals if need be (IIRC you have another car?).

    I'd return the stuff to HF too. Better off buying good machinist tools (Starrett, Mitutoyo, Fowler) on eBay.
     
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  14. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    Yeah, I have the 70 Stage 1 automatic car.

    I have the frame pads and a repro fan shroud is available. Everything else is easy.
     
  15. gscalifornia

    gscalifornia Small blocks rule!!

    It’ll be ok, I still don’t have my 350 back and still have faith i’ll be driving to the Nats, and yes I have a 455 I could swap in as well.

    There’s no better feeling than beating up on a big block Brand X car with a Buick small block. Anyone can drop a big block in, we’re a small but proud group that sticks it out with the as delivered small block!
     
  16. Max Damage

    Max Damage I'm working on it!

    Hang in there! That 350 deserves to get put back together and burn.

    I try not to keep track of my spending, that helps LOL.
     
  17. Dano

    Dano Platinum Level Contributor

    I have a '70 Stage 1 4-sp. & if I had to get rid of it or the '70 350 4-sp., I'd keep the 350 and it's a basket case currently. I just like these cars so that's why I hate to see yours go the 455 route but it's your car...
     
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  18. Fox's Den

    Fox's Den 355Xrs

    I beat a lot of stock 455's when I used to go to the Nat's at Norwalk and some hopped up ones too. The stock ones you can beat with a good balanced 350 and able to spin to 6 grand. Good cam 3000+ stall 373 or more gears and they are smacked around. Add in the 4 speed automatic and 410 gears and I bet you can smack around a lot of 455's.

    You have to always work on getting the car out of the hole if you have a 350 and if there is a cam involved you might as well plan on getting up to 3000 stall and more gears. It is the only way to get this thing out of the hole with a big heavy car.

    I had a 3500 stall convertor that was letting the engine stall to 3 grand, I had the best 60 ft times with this set up

    The difference between a 1.70 60 ft and a 1.90 60 ft is just about a car length. At that point you lost

    and if that don't work I shoot the 75 shot of nitrous and the 12.40 is not a problem, Right where most Stage 1's run that have some work done to them.

    If I was going to do a 455 I would be putting in the 308S cam in that biatch! and build as such
     
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  19. Mart

    Mart Gold level member

    So you're saying the case is the best part of that h.f. mic set?:D:D
     
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  20. 72gs4spd

    72gs4spd Well-Known Member

    No matter what your building Buick, Chevy, Pontiac, Olds (Buick preferably) it always costs more than expected and takes longer than anticipated.
     
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