Winter 2020 (Now Spring 2023) 350 Fresh-Up Project

I got the plugs today. I'll try installing them in the heads tomorrow.

 

Don't they sell assorted brass freeze plugs at the Autozone help rack? Or maybe just go to an Aco hardware?

 

No clue. I tried looking online but the assortments didn't show all the sizes or didn't have a 3/4" size listed. So, rather than running around 1/2 a day, I ordered these from Summit along with the bump steer correcting steering arms.

 

Just got the call. I can pick up the rotating assembly tomorrow. All totaled, $150!

 

The excitement is building...

 

Awesome!

 

Got it back from the balancing job. He claimed he balanced it to 8000 RPM. With any luck, that means what it would mean if it were tires balanced to 80MPH and I only drive 55MPH max.

He didn't need any Mallory to put in it. He was able to do it all on the crank and the flywheel. He took the pistons off the rods and balanced all of them as well. Pistons were all within 2grams and rods were, I think within 4grams and only 2 needed to be lightened.

He ground on the front of the crank at the 1/2 rod journal. Plenty of extra meat to grind off on a casting nub. The flywheel got 2 divots on the back and one on the outer rim near the ring gear.

I don't really know much about the specs he gave me but maybe someone here can read it and understand it better. It made sense when he gave it to me a few hours ago.

 

Good deal Greg.
He had the ext. balancer also I hope.

 

Yes, but he took the front balance requirement off the front of the crank. You can't see it well through the plastic but it isn't much.

 

Well, the bottom end is together with crank, rods and pistons in it.

Question: Do you still torque the rods to 35lb/ft with new ARP bolts/nuts or is there a greater value to use?

Also, one rod has actual blue discoloration on it. Is that OK?

 

Got a question: What should I be using locktite on? Flywheel bolts, oil pickup, windage tray? I haven't used any on the rods or mains.

 

Locktite is fine on what you mention. Rod bolt strech of .006 is best. I don't know if the rod bolts are 11/32" like the earlier 300 and 340 and are torqued to 40ftlb with ARP lube and 45ftlb with motor oil. Or if 3/8" would be 45ftlb with ARP lube and 50ftlb with oil. Here is a chart you can compare with your rod bolt #:

ARP Head Studs, Main Studs, Rod Bolts Torque and Stretch Specs – IPGparts

 

I measured rod bolt stretch in vise, but that can't be done in assembly.
The stretch equaled the mfg specs, so if you are using their hardware & lube, torque to their poundage and you'll be right there on stretch.
Torque right to spec, don't try and creep up by 1 or 2 lbs. Fast, & to the spec seems to hold the value best.

 

Measured the pistons at .031 down in the hole so it should spec out to just about 9:1 compression ratio with the 54cc heads and .040 head gaskets.

 

I'm not reading thru the whole thread... what pistons are those & what dish?

 

Everything is stock and original 1971, pistons, rods, crank, flywheel, etc. The block was decked .020 and the heads are now 54cc. I'm reringing, rebearinging, regasketing with a TA 212 cam, Stage 1 intake, Hooker headers and an M23Z 4-speed transmission.

 

I know it is the wrong color or red but it was available and I was ready to get going.

If my headers get done this week, it will run by Easter!

 

Looks fine. Universal red. It'll darken some with heat & age. You've been going to town!.....

 

The buddy we swapped cams in a few months ago came over today and we got busy with it. Stripped the old intake of fittings and put all of them in the Stage 1.

Every time I tightened down an intake bolt or one of the plugs, you could hear the clear coat cracking. Look along the passenger side next to the valve cover and you can see it flaking off. Also, a huge area under the heater hose nipple on the intake lifted. Oh well. I bought it that way. I'd paint it aluminum if it starts getting crusty.

All I need to do is mount the fuel pump, accessory brackets and get the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate on it. I can't do the clutch on the stand since there is no room. I'll have to get it on cradle to get that done. Now I have to build another one since my spare 455 is on the only one I still have.

 

No biggie.
I would have cleaned & painted the intake bolt heads. Looks like the only thing you missed painting. I've been using stainless bolts lately on intake. They're not flanged heads but I made ground, semi-hardened thick steel washers instead.