Before I dig into the door and rear panels, want everyones input on window adjustment. My problem is that: 1) The door window and rear window overlap when I have them rolled up all the way. 2) Both door and rear windows do not make it all the way up to the convertible top weatherstrip. Can anyone give me helpful hints on what to try first as far as the adjustments? I know I can figure it out, but would like some input before I leave work today since I don't have a computer at home. Plan on working on them this weekend and would like to know what to look for instead of having to use the brain. ou: :laugh: Thanks! Dee
Make sure you have about 8 hours to put aside for this project...it takes a while....especially if you're doing it rom scratch basically.
If you have a body manual handy, use it. I spent a whole day setting mine up when I put everything back together-it's a real pain to get those properly set up. The adjustments let you slide the windows forward, backward, higher, lower, towards the inside or towards the outside. When you think you finally got it, you always find something that isn't right. You may have to make a compromise adjustment. Based on my experience with this, and I am by no means an expert on this subject, but try this: First check to be sure there is no missing stops or rubber bumpers. Don't overtighten the screws, if they thread into potmetal parts, they will strip easily. Do the front door window first, with the rear window down. The rear adjustment depends on how this is set first. Make sure it is not too far forward, or too far back. Then adjust the in and out judging by how the glass contacts the sill weatherstripping. After that, then set how far the window goes up. If you have to make a big change, you may have to slide the glass more to the front or rear to compensate. Make sure this window is adjusted satisfactorily before proceeding to do the rear. Open and close the door a few times with the window all the way up to make sure the window is not extending too far and getting cought on the roof weatherstripping. The rear can then be adjusted the same way, taking care not to set it too close to the door window when rolled all the way up. It should not put excessive pressure vertical rubber seal and be about level with the door window. I hope this helps you. If you are not a patient person, don't try doing this job.:grin:
Dee You've got two problems. First fix the windows, so the front and back meet OK, as described. Then there is an adjsutment in the top to make the top rails meet the top of the windows. I have posted this fix in this forum several times; do a seach for me in this forum--it's about the only thing I've ever posted in the Ragtop Shop about. Looking forward to Temple If you don't find it PM me Nick
This is a major PITA, I spent an entire weekend doing it, still not perfect had to make some compromises, the new weather strip on my top frame will need to wear in a while I think, the motors really struggle coming up against it.
I have the same problem - been doing that since I installed the rubber in April.. Kinda ticks me off.
My motors struggle too. I used to have rear quarter motors in my doors, but the only way they would close all the way was with the door open or with a push. I figured out a way to replace the rusted sockets on the original door motors that are bigger than the rears.:Smarty:
Add me to the list of "Need this done...." Mine Are POWER windows The driver window front can be moved foward and back by hand about 3/4 - 1 inch now. If I look down at what I "think" is the problem, it looks like a pin shifts off of its perpendicular axis and the window rides foward as one side of the pin wobbles off axis. Any Ideas ?? I currently have the door panel off awaiting some warm weather so I can install my new(ish) Power Window Harness and would like to take care of this mess at the same time Are parts available ???
Hi Nick! Found your top adjustment post but still don't quite understand where the top adjustment is. I felt around and couldn't find what I thought I was looking for to adjust. Guess I better read again. Any adjustment I do to the windows has to be better than they are now. The fronts overlap the backs, one sticks out way too far, etc. Lotsa fun! Gotta get this done before Temple so I can show it off some. Dee
We'll find out how patient I am. :af: Want to come down from NY to do this for me? :grin: Can't be as bad as putting on the new top! Dee
I'd love too. The weather up here SUCKS!!!!:laugh: I can only imagine how much extra difficult this would be on a convertible. Just be patient, plan one day for each side. If you can use tools and take time out to think first, you'll get it. :TU:
you may want to change the door hinge pins and bushing b4 playing with the windows if there is some sag in the doors... and yes getting the windows to close correctly is a huge PITA. Nate
Doors are pretty tight but do need some weatherstrip and bumpers to make them tighter. Went through the door hinge pins on my '79 Z28 a while back. BIG PITA! Gotta muster up my patience I guess. I'll plan for a whole weekend per side with the way my jobs go. :laugh: Dee
Being the sedentary person that I am, when faced with this problem I went down to the local auto glass repair/replace joint. They adjusted my windows for me for about 25-35 bucks as I recall. Now prior to sending it in, I took off the driver and passenger door panels myself. Saved the labor and didn't trust them not to damage them (just a paranoid person). They did an excellent job and no skinned knuckles or profanity laced repair session.
Sounds like the way to fix the problem to me. Wish me luck on finding one that will do it for 25-35 bucks! They like everything big here in Texas, including the prices! :eek2: :laugh: Dee
Ok, here's an update. One place quoted me $45 per door and that's not including the back windows. Another quote $70 a piece. Last quote: $36 minimum and then by the hour after that (you know how that always turns out). Ok, that sounds a little steep!!!:af: Everything is bigger in Texas!!! Ok, I'm lookin' for the $25 place! :Brow: Dee
Convertible adjustment If you've got a ragtop you'll need to be sure your top is properly adjusted before you adjust the windows. If the top has shrunk and is pulling the top frame out of adjustment you'll never get the windows right. It might be best to have a profesional shop adjust the top. For scissor tops it should stop 1.5 to 2 inches above the windshield when raised. There should be a couple of inches of "bounce" when folded. There are also measurements of how much outward pressure is exerted by the side rails. One last scissor top warning: There are rods that retain the rain gutter, they often get bent during top work and can interfere with the rear windows. This can cause many problems from reluctant movement, to scratches, to broken windows. Watch the window as it raises and lowers, it should be relatively smooth all the way. If it suddenly slows down it might be hitting these rods. Adjusting windows in a ragtop is a 4 part process. 1) Replace any weatherstripping that's too old 2) Get the slop out of the door hinges and make sure the doors are properly aligned. 3) Make sure the roof is properly aligned and adjusted 4) Then you can spend the day adjusting the windows. Of course you can skip any of the steps, but if you do you'll be adjusting the windows again in the future.
