I have a small leak on the passenger side axle tube. This is the 2nd leak in the past 10 years or so, both on the passenger side. The last seal I used was purchased at NAPA for a few bucks. I just purchased new seals from Rockauto that were listed as fitting a 12 bolt Chevy rear, among others. However, the packaging says 8.2 BOP. Other retailers say BOP ONLY when I cross reference that part number. Also, Rockauto shows it as a .490 width but the packaging shows .470 width. My measurement comes in at .448'ish. The price on these is about $25 each, way more than the $4-$5 seals I've used in the past (that leaked). Two questions: 1). will they fit a 12 bolt Chevy, and 2). are they worth the price? I don't want to try to fit them and not be able to return them, especially at that price. Thanks in advance.
You like bought a 8.2 8.5 oiled seal the kind that were on the BOLT in axles from 1970 -1976 BOLT IN AXLES. 8660s like Brian said. Jim
If you keep on getting leaks...Likely the bearing is starting to go bad OR worse yet axle shaft or axle HOUSING is tweaked / bent.... Jim I would do bearing also and send a picture of the axle shaft bearing surface area ...
Rock Auto knows NOTHING about the parts they source from suppliers and sell to you for cheaper. They rely on the manufacturer for info, I ordered a window regulator for a Tahoe, and it was CLEARLY the wrong one, BUT it was listed as fitting the RR with power
I think I found the cause of the leak. I installed the seal flush with the axle tube and not seated. Driver side was installed correctly and doesn't leak. Not sure what I was thinking at the time. This time I used the proper installation tool and the seals are recessed slightly in the axle tube.
Well you definitely do not want to dent it etc. Regular 1 x 1 piece of brass 3-4" long will do and then I take an old bearing and drive the seal all the way to the seal land in the tube end. LIGHTLY....lol. That squares it up and also leaves more room to push the axle into the housing to engage the c-clip on the axle shaft channel end with out stressing the lip on the seal. Chevelles are bad as most aftermarket axles seem to be slightly too short and the radius is not back cut as much as the factory stock axles. Jim JD
It looks like the old seal was riding on the radius at the beginning of the transition. When I pushed the axle in to insert the c-clip it must have stretched it even more.
That is why I tap them in all the way past the outer steel tube end INTO the housing another 1/8 inch. There is a machined land and the seal will stop square if you lightly tap and feel the stop. Jim
In the last picture with the fresh oil around the seal...IT LOOKS like your housing end is bulged where the seal gets pressed in at??? It is correct? How did it get like that? Should be straight on the outside of the tube to the housing tube end from the backing plate out...WHAT happened?
It's straight. The photo creates an illusion that there is a bulge in the tube but it's not there. A straight edge will lay flat from the end of the tube to the flange.
