ok.i have a 1971 skylark with a 30 over 455 to start out with bottom end .ta .30 over cast pistons,10/10 crank,stock pan ,new ta timming cover,ajustable pump,double roller chain ta,499 cam ta,st.1heads ta level two porting,830 hp holley,stock rods,7.5 lbs.fuel pump. ok this is what i know the 455 lower had run for two years no problems at all . I put the heads cam in it and broke it in run fine. drove the car 71 miles put it on the track run three passes on it temp. ran at 160 to 170 . staiged the car in the burnout box smoked the tires pulled to the line left it in drive.from idle 4000 shifts no problems good oil pressure ran a 12.87 at 103 . the fourth time i was a feeling good about the car so i did the same yhing but staiged the car at 1500 rpm it pulled hard felt better then 1.7 60ft it ran before packed front wheel about 7 inches.pulled out of the 60ft 5000 shift and bang ! #7 rod piston came loose ,busted bock ,crank,cam ,two valves in head . I have talked to some guys i know and have had a couple of answers #1 when you pulled the 60ft you ran it out of oil. #2 the oil you used caused the failer . ok so with that said i what do you think happen to it was i pushing the motor to hard with the build i had on it my plans was not to run it over 5500 rpm . so what did i do wrong or what could i do to prevent this in the future. thank for your in put thomas.
Since you didn't mention if you checked the bottom end,it may have been near failure when you took it out.Were the clearances of the mains and rods checked?Also,theres no mention of what was oil pressure.Sounds to me that #7 failed due to lack of oil,or excessive clearances,when you get it apart look at the crank and rod end,chances are you'll have blue or black metal due to heat and a spinning bearing. gary gary
Most times on a Buick if a rod fails its usually 7 or 8. It was probably from oil starvation. A hard launch with no baffleing in the pan could have uncovered the pickup and sucked air for a moment. I have seen demonstrations at Federal Mogul on how long it takes air to purge from the entire oiling system once its introduced and its scary. Discoloration of the big end of the rod and bearings that just fall out (lost their press fit) are signs of overheating. Oil mods and clearances need to be addressed for the type of use or abuse you are going to put this motor thru.
Does anyone make a baffled stock oil pan or very similar dimensions to stock? With 5 quarts in the system my car can brake hard enough to loose pressure (12inch rotors up front, ~10inch rotors out back).
I dont understand why no one makes any hi-po oil pans for buicks,it seems like they are the forgotten part,they only make deep pans from what i see,no kick out pans no baffled pans,for all other makes i see so many nice pans except for Buicks,sometimes i think we`re into the wrong cars if we wanna go hi-po.
There are many reasons why this happened. Most were talked about already. I thought of these and one more. If you have this motor since new, then you must know how it was treated it's whole life. Replace all the internal nuts and bolts while you have it apart or this might happen. ARP makes new rod bolts and main bolts or studs (which I use).
Yea i know they make those Larry,but no one makes a kick out pan for low profile cars,when they sell you oil pans you get nothing in them no windage trays no baffles everything has to get welded or needs some kind of modification,like on a 494 you cannot use the stock windage tray you have to go get something custom,they dont sell anything for it.
The Stef's pan I have only has 1 baffle at the rear of the sump. And the inner tie-rods needed clearance. This Ta Pan is cheaper with baffles & door but not low profile. Ray
I just installed a new stamped stock type 6 qt pan, with 2 baffles, front and rear and I never run out of pressure. Thanks God!! I did have to weld the baffles in but he had them pre cut to fit in. I got it from Greg Gessler. I thionk I paid 250 or so?? Can't remember, the numbers are way too high to keep track!!!!
I designed (CAD tool & die dsgnr.) my own stock depth pan with side tanks similar to that of a circle track pan with baffling. I then contacted a friend of mine who was a dealer for Ed Hamburger's oil pans to build it. At the time (1993), Hamburger said that he didn't want to take it, as he was too busy and that he "would only piss me off" with the late delivery. I can respect that, & he also said that he would like to see my drawings when I was done with them (imagine that). I found a guy locally who is a "sheet metal smith" (dying breed) to do it. a.) I'll put some pix here just as soon as I get them converted from hard copies. b.) I'm not familiar with the price of existing aftermarket pans, and I did mine in 1993, so I'm uncertain if this would be cost effective ? (stock pan + sheet metal shop labor versus aftermarket pan) And, my receipts went to Canada with the buyer of motor & trans. c.) End result being, that if a guy had a MIG and some refined metal working skills, he then could fabricate a pan similar to what I had. d.) My car was a 4 spd. application, so an automatic car could afford more capacity with a driver's side - side tank without the concerns for clutch linkage clearance. With a little luck.....I should be able to post these pix early next week (Aug. 16-18th)........see update below. UPDATE: I just remembered that'll I'll need to down-size the pix once I get them. Seems to me the guy that used to do it on here was named Chris Lott, but I don't know his screen name ? Anyone that can shed some light on this would be helpful. Jeff
could not find the the thing i think it was left on the track . but the bearings was black could wipe off with my finger and was not gauded or marked up with scars.this was the first time i ever had this happen so i do not have good pictures of it sorry . i gess i was just so discusted that my baby was hurt i just did not think about pictures of all of ito No:
