Change to smaller tires Go with some 185s or so and you'll be able to spin them (or one with an open rear). Using cheaper "high milage" tires with a high treadwear rating will help too.
Have my vacuum control , condenser , set of points and spark plugs (R45TS) changed and of course some timing adjustment yesterday and .... what a difference a day made :grin: Haven't try to burn yet but it sure spins wayyyyyy longer , not bad for a 2bbl :3gears:
Bought a timming light, initial timming is at 7 degree's. took vaccum line off of vaccume advance canister and still had 7 degree's...mmmm
I have a 2 barrel with stock intake[high mileage] and mine can peel wheels pretty good. Now it doesn't smoke the wheels right away. I have to use the brake a little bit then let go of the brake and drift ahead slowly on my burnouts. Adds a tad of realism !!! LMAO!! Before the headers i couldn't peel wheels on dirt and gravel.. I also power tuned the car and it ran like a late 60's muscle car should.. With my power braking technhnique I call it the "poser burnout!!" LOL but most people don't know the difference. The drum brakes thing.. My buddy has an old camaro that couldnt smoke the tires because the rear brakes were just too tight.. it was the self adjusting mechanism or something simular that drew the pads too close to the drums in the rear..
You can't spin because of your tires and rear That is why you can't spin your tires right there. Your car probably came with bias ply tires comparable to a P195 today and you have soft high-performance 235s on it. Add in the highway gearing and you have your answer. The easiest and surest way is to get cheaper, harder, smaller tires. Get a 70,000 mile 195 or 205 with a real high treadwear rating and you should be able to break it loose with no problem. If you want to test this theory put a donut spare on the car. I bet you can light it up for 50 yards going straight ahead. If you want to keep the tires you have try over inflating them. Inflate them up to the maximum listed on the sidewall. That will make your contact patch smaller, allowing you to break them free easier (it will also hurt your traction and handleing).
That's correct. You will not get vacuum out of that line until the throttle opens. Put your finger (or a vacuum gauge) on the line then move the throttle (rev the engine). You'll feel the vacuum. MARK
Yah its important to make sure ya V/A is properly functional... first detatch the v/a hose from the carb and suck on it till you hear a click.. if it clicks its working.. if it doesn't click.. reattatch everything then go buy a crane adjustable vacum advance.. autozone for $20.. and ya have to plug that vacum line when its disconnected tooooo.. in order to set proper curve. I tried setting my initial too many times without plugging the vacum advance line and it would have way tooo much advance.. took me 3 months and registering at this site to realise my v/a module was bad and my vacum lines were crappy...!!! No computer chips in theese beasts...and that's a good thing. funny thing is take all the computer jap gyro stuff outa cars and we still need them to communicate wtih the Wizard LOL
Thanks for your responses. This thread has been a great ressource. I bought Mr Gasket kit, came with brass bushing, 3 set of springs and weights. Marked everything and pulled it out. Used lightest springs, have 2,5 degrees of initial timming (had it at 7 and it ran stronger with no ping...will put it back), advanced at 30 - 32 at 1400 rpm, I will switch to medium springs assuming that 30 - 32 will happen around 2500 RPM. Rust dust/powder poured out of my vaccum advance. I did the 15 second thumb on vaccum deal and it still had vaccum when thumb pulled away. I had never removed a distributor from an engine before, enjoyed the experience...Car runs stronger... I have a 3.23 gear ratio with posi track along with 11 inches of foot print on 17 inch wheels so am not expecting that 300 ci to spin those wheels. On another note my car does not start so well after a good run. Hard start and I get black smoke from exhaust...running to rich?? Float levels mabe?
When you say your car does not start so well, does it turn over slow or does it turn over normally, just doesn't want to fire? If it's blowing out black smoke that most likely to much fuel, does it just do it when starting, or when you accelerate, or both. Old Q/Jets have a tendency to start leaking fuel which can cause hard start problems and smoke at startup. o No:
Have Carter comp carb 500 CFM. I mean if I take a 15 minute drive, park it for 10 minutes come back... I have to crank the engine a lot longer then on initial start up, when it starts...poof I get black smoke. I also have a very small gas leak from the secondary throttle shaft.
Do you pump the accelerator when you try and start it hot. If you do try to start it without touching the throttle.
Cracked open the carb last night. Float level was off a tad but float drop was 50% more then spec!! Runs better now. I bought a calibration kit for it, but not sure if I want to mess with it now. My secondaries just kind of sit there partially open and do not do much even when reving the engine. It is a 500 cfm carter afb comp carb. My trani has not acted up again (still want to check vaccume m and adjust low band)...but it was quite intermittent...So mabe i will concentrate on my starter a bit, it will occassionally (1/50) not engage right and make this terrible noise. I changed the starter silenoid.
Michel, Do you have the aluminum plate under your carburetor? If not, it will boil over when warm. Mine didn't have it when I bought the car and it would flood when sitting (like my '53 almost always does!)...I bought the Mr. Gasket aluminum heat spacers and now it only floods on super super hot days (like today)...it made a HUGE difference...I used two of the plates on mine...anyway, your secondaries won't open just winging the motor in neutral...it has to be under load...AFB secondaries are pretty foolproof--the plates are opened mechanically and the air valve is pulled open as the engine needs it...good luck!
my old 73 century winter car with a 350 2bbl and plenty of rot did nice one wheel peels until i made a cam lobe round :laugh: . read the timing post thouroghly. hei distributors were introduced in the smog era and had bogus mechanical curves. you can put the lightest springs in it that you want but if you don't limit the amount of mechanical advance it will ping. if using the points dist. with a curve kit from mr. gasket it comes with a bronze bushing to put over the limit pin so you can run more initial timing. you should be able to run about 16degrees initial and 36 total by 2500 - 300 rpm's. if you have the $ just buy a msd unit and a 6al box which has a rev limiter. the distributor has multiple springs and limit bushings to use and a graph whith what each combo will do. also the mr. gasket kit i believe has a gm part # for an advance canister that won't start advancing until you have 10" of vacuum.
dude i have a 1969 skylark custom with a 1970 350 2 barrel and i don't have any rubber left to burn anylonger. my lil bang snapper has only hooker headers and duals with flowmasters .. i got an edelbrock aircleaner to get some more airflow and i have limited slip differential even with my timing way off .... retarded or advanced i DO NOT HAVE ANY ISSUES WITH SPINNING THE WHEELS. never did. even with the car extremely retarded with 20 yr old wires plugs and rotor it still spun the tires pretty damn good. thats even with single exhaust before the duals.. I don't know how to fix or even diagnose ya problem other than that the car should sing like a bansheee who just took a bath in rubbing alcohol w/ a 1000 papercuts. seriously take it to someone who will allow you to watch over his shoulder while power timing your car.. its not expensive at all and youll never have to take it back to him again if he lets you watch. i spent 60 bux to watch crazy cooter power time my car and i feel all the better for it.. Theese guys know what theyre talking about ... and youll understand what is maybe potentially robbing your car of precious ponies in the process too.
I did the Mr Gasket advance kit, put medium springs, changed the weights and used the little brass bushing. running 5 degree initial timming and getting around 30 degree at 2500 RPM (300 CI 4 BBL with dual exh). I tried advancing initial but pings like hell...am assuming that I still need to trick up the canister like Larry's post suggest. Car runs much better then it did...Re carb, I do not have a spacer and will try to see if it helps...just got back from cruise night, carb not hot to touch, just warm...mmmmmabe I should go try now, with no air flow mabe it's hotter...thanks for all your input!
I added a spacer but could not find a phonelic one that fit, so used a inch aluminum one....also disconected my heat riser valve cause when I tested it the only way I could get in to open was to put a torch to it! So it just stays open now. I starts a little better when hot...but still have some gas lking at secondary throttle shaft....probably bushings?? I phoned a shop they told me to bring it in MABE they can rebush...I also opened up my carb to find that secondaries were only .089, I installed .092 and changed primaries to .089 with 6247 rods, big diff in performance(have a 500cfm carter comp carb), I now get a tiny chirp going around a corner...and if I stop and cut the wheels then go WOT I can smoke a donut...some more mods planned for this winter...see other posts if u r interessted...Cheers and to ALL the canucks out there, Happy Thanks Giving and God Bless.
Mine did, but i was running 2.56 gears with 27.6? in tires. And the engine was pretty tired, was a 1971, with valve seal problems, and im sure the compression was suffering. Burned oil, and you could punch it at WOT off the line and the best you would get is a short lived chirp. My distributer was also a little seized so timing it was a bear, i did it by ear without a timing light, and got it in the ball park. But i think this would be true for any engine with compression probs that is in need of a rebuild! Every other SBB ive seen is quite potent. Did we ever hear from the original "postee" of the thread? Did he/she finally spin those tires.....???? Waiting to hear, cheers.
