about spinner the tires...maybe a little offtopic but can any of you guys do donuts in your 350 skylarks....all i can managed to do is a burnout in a circle...literally...cant get the assend loose lol...got a 72 engine, stock besides dual strait pipes...with a 4bbl do u think i'll be able to do one...still no posi...but that shiouldnt matter as my buddys 67 special with the lil 300 can do it..and so can my buddys caprice with broken posi
Mine spins gorgeous figure 8's like Yamaguchi. It will slide around a parking lot like it's on glass as long as you are willing to stand on the big pedal. I must also mention that it would do this with a locker in the rear and the huge Mickey's BEFORE the turbos. The lack of posi actually makes it tougher for you to get the rear to really let go though.
Yup, sounds like the mechanical advance is not working correctly. Take the cap off, then the rotor. Look at the weights. Pull them outwards by hand and see if they return smoothly. Chances are they are sticking. You can lightly sand off any rust on the weights and pins, then lubicate the bottoms of the weights with a small amount of light grease. Everything should move smoothly without binding. The springs control how fast the mechanical advance builds. The stock springs are very stiff. You want to buy the Crane adjustable vacuum advance kit. It comes with 3 sets of springs that are ideal for street performance. If you use the 2 yellow springs, the 30* mark will move very rapidly up as you rev the motor. When you get it right, you should have no problems screaming the tires from a dead stop.
I strongly recommend the crane adj. kit! DO IT!!!! Regarding donuts: You'll need a possi to buck good donuts with a heavy car like these.
Ok.... So I found the kit on Jegs, no one locally seems to carry it. However I think I'll drive the car like it is for another short while. Instead of spending the money on the HEI, I have a stock type distributor to replace it for the stock look and fit. The HEI is too high and the last owner cut the drivers snorkle on the air cleaner to make it fit. I have a replacement snorkle. I also have enough gift certificates for the pertronix kit at YearOne. So I'll get the pertronix kit for the original distributor, a crane advance kit for this delco distribotor, and pick up a good coil and a set of plug wires. I think that should do it? I'll keep you guys posted !!
Tire Spin???? Tire spin? uzzled: Thats what you don't want! uzzled: I have trouble keeping mine from spinning uzzled: . Sounds like your GS is hooking up well. AL. :3gears:
Hi, I had the same trouble with my 67 Skylark 340 4bbl, it was a dog off the line. Installed the Crane vacuum advance and lighter springs(1 silver 1 blue). Then I backed the timing to 2* advanced (it was to far advanced). What a difference!! Now I think I'll be able to spin my new BFG 15" 65's on my new rallye rims that I put on this week. Thanks to Larry and everyone else on the board, the information is awsome! Good luck to you man, light em up. Mark :beer
If you do some searching then you will find that the petronix setup is not the best option. I thinik you would be better to use a MSD box and trigger setup, thats the best setup if your not going with stock HEI. Make an informed decision before you buy anything and weigh your options. ps. just trying to help
to hook a timing light up, connect the red and black alligator clamps to the positive and negative battery terminals, then put the clamp around the #1 cylinder spark plug wire and fire the engine up. then point the light to ur timing mark on ur harmonic balancer.
I do have the same "problem" tires don't spins unless there is some sand,water etc to help but no smoke coming of the wheel well o No: 350 2bbl 2 spd auto powerglide (ST300) , 3.08 posi 12 bolts Is it a big job to have the timing check and then adjust if neccesary ? ie:labor time
It probably takes more time to get the car running up to operating temp, if you start from cold, then it does to check/adjust timing.
Thanks for the answer , so at my next oil change i'm gonna have my mechanic look for timing , I'll give a follow-up If my car can finally smoke the rear tires ! :3gears: And maybe a picture to prove it :laugh:
Keep The Headers IF the headers are to loud, check for leaks, other than that ejoy the small amount of extra noise......PULEEEEZE keep the headers. Invest in 2.5- 3 inch duals, and POSI. and if you go to posi you might as well go with some higher gearing, 342, 373. Line lock is either as simple as a 100 bucks and a couple hours or spend 20 at radio shack and some surplus store. Line locks are way too much fun. And they save the brakes a little.... Take your car and your tool box out to a spot where you can test her out without getting in **** from other people and the cops, deserted is what I'm talking about. Go by feel and tweek you dist and try it out, tweek again, so and so on. Unless you got money and acess to a dyno..... You should have enough tourque there to set you back in the seat, and make the little rice rocket beside you squirm at the site of sweet smelln tire smoke. :3gears:
Timing is Everything Go through Larry's post, do everything he says to do. More years ago than I like to remember, I had a 70 GS-350. With 12* initial and a total of 36*, with a 3.42 or so posi if I just stomped the throttle from a dead stop without the brakes it would burn the tires through first and to about 4000 RPM in 2nd. That's when the car was moving fast enough that the tires would catch and it would put you back in the seat. The engine was stone stock inside, had a rebuilt T-350 and stock converter with L60-15 tires. The only non stock items under the hood was a Stinger electronic ignition and a spreadbore 650 Holley double pumper. The tires and wheels were the only other thing on it that wasn't the way Buick built it. Heck, it even had a column shifter! :TU: :3gears: :laugh: Is your new timing light a dial-back unit? That's the easiest way to check for total timing. If it is, you will want to pay particular attention to where the dial is as you are looking at the timing marks on the damper and the timing cover. Either set the dial where you want the timing, then move the distributor until the marks line up at 0*, or set the dial at 0* and line up the marks on the damper and the cover. Easy Peasy. You'll be amazed at the difference in power and even fuel mileage.
Most tire burn fans use a line lock kit. This keeps the front brakes engaged while freeing the rears. This also prevents the car from sending the driveshaft through the floor or having the tranny go off like a grenade. Remember not to get too excited and over rev the motor as you'll be replacing it as well. ou: My riv has split driveshafts and the last thing I want to do is replace the whole assembly or any part of the drivetrain. Poster that said the car hooks up well has the right idea. uzzled:
I don't know if has been talked about here, but with a Q jet carb if the choke is not all the way open the secondaries of the carb won't open. There is a little lever that blocks the secondaries closed till choke is all the way open. I had this happen at the drag races on my car a long time ago. I wanted to make a pass with less heat in the motor so I didn't run it as long as I had been before, so when I took off it was a big time slug, only running on the 2 front barrels. It took me a little time to realize what happened, I wired the choke wide open at the races after that.
