Usually it is best to do: - timing set - new waterpump - cam and lifters - and the gakets of course - cam bearings Sure you can do the cam swap with the engine in place although it is WAY easier to do with the engine out. It depends if you want to pull the engine or if you want to leave it in. There are many things you can easily do with the engine out like clean, re-gasket etc. PS, buy a complete gasket kit so that you have all the gaskets needed for later on if you need to...:beer
Look at post 135, there is a video of a Buick 350 with 284 cam. Or you could go with something like this, a Buick 350 with a custom cam and some boost: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zktYYQhCtqU
I am in the process right now of building a 2004R and installing 3.73s in the rear so maybe the 284 is a better bet, especially if I plan on head work when the engine is pulled. What stall speed do you recommend?
Something like a 2000 stall converter should be fine. A 2800 stall would be even better since with a 200R4 you can still have 100% lockup when on the highway. I get 2 MPG extra with the lockup engaged on the highway via toggle switch, having manual control of the lockup is HUGE!
So since I would have lockup a 2800 stall would be fine on the street? Also how is the 284s fuel manners compared to the 212
Yes, the only draw back to a stall of about 2800 is that you might use a bit more fuel when leaving from a stop. This is because of the slipping that goes on, this slipping is what creates the extra torque multiplication though so it is not an issue in most cases. Before the lockup converter was introduced it was either have a nice stall that lets the car leave the line well and then have it feel too loose when you are driving around. Now with the lockup converters we can run any stall we want and still get 100% lockup when we want it. Another point is that when using a non lockup converter it is especially important to get a high quality converter, the cheep ones feel really loose when you are driving around... Lots of slip when you do not want it. I payed over $900 for the converter in my TH400 LOL:spank: I can go into the details of the wiring for the lockup if you get to that point. I would say that you would have a tough time getting reliable data on which cam was better on fuel... Only using the same car with both cams would tell you. It is all in the combo, making everything work together is the key and one missing link and neither cam will run well... Decide on the RPMs you want to be cruising in and develop a plan to get the most power in those rpms. A well tuned/built Q jet will be the key to fuel milage as well as a good ignition system and timing curve. The vacuum advance can add milage on the highway if you can get it tuned right.
A 2000 stall converter you would never even know was there....even a 2800 for most would make little difference. You have to have the torque to make the converter stall at its " advertised " speed anyways so...given that , If your going to change converters a 2000 is almost a waste of $$ and a 2800 would be totally streetable .
This is exactly right, the 2800 would be good to use. I use Pro Torque for my convertor. The thing was not cheap $800.00. I use a 3000 stall the engine revs up to 2000 rpm which moves the car easily. The 2800 would be the choice I would use.
2800 is talking about what the converter will flash to if you floor the gas off the line. The stall rating given by the company is an "estimate" of what the converter will do in the car. As already pointed out if using a stockish Buick 350, look for a torque converter rated slightly higher than what you are actually looking for in a stall speed. The lockup can be engaged at any rpm you want if you hae it set up with a toggle switch. BEWARE, make sure you have the brake switch operational or you can have the engine stall when you brake. Any time the brakes are engaged the lockup MUST disengage or you could crash due to engine stall and loss of power brakes and steering. If you use an adjustable vacuum switch you can set it so that when you step on the gas the lockup shuts off, also run a toggle switch that way you can over-ride the automatic setup. This is a VERY important part of the 200R4 swap, many people fry these trans due to not hooking up the lockup and driving long distances. For 1/4 mile racing use you can get away without the lockup however on long highway drives the trans will overheat and kill its self without the lockup since the trans is not setup to run on the highway without lockup. My best freind has a supercharged mustang (680 HP at the wheels) that has a 2800 stall converter and it flashes to 4000 rpms off the line and it works great on the street. The stall rating of his converter is 2800 however the engine makes so much power it raises the slippage. He gets 21 MPG with the lockup converter engaged on the highway.
My trans builder did set mine up if I forgot to manually unlock the torque convertor it would unlock itself when I stopped. The only downside of that is once it got into 3rd gear it would lock up instantly so you do need to be aware when it is locked up. I used a toggle switch that has a light on it so I am reminded of it being locked up. With my old 350 trans I had a nice loose 3000 stall convertor in and would flash to 4 grand when punching it. When the nitrous kicked in that number would go to 5 grand and not go below this after shifting. So the more power the engine makes the higher it will stall when punching it. Even with the loose convertor the car would still move at 2 grand and would run down the road at this rpm at 35 mph. But would not take much to push it to 3 grand. At 3 grand I managed to get to 60 mph but then again would push easily to 3500, then 4500 if it was mashed in 3rd gear without downshifting. With the 4 speed auto and lockup convertor this has all changed. Now 90 mph locked up in 4th gear at 3000 rpm
Could you not use a teflon button for something like a BBC? Like drill a hole or weld up a boss on the back side of the timing cover, check end gap through the dist hole? Or even counter bore the cam bolt and add a teflon button to get the size them look at a roller bearing button? Do the TurboV6's have a cam button or a bearing and collar under the timing gear? Sorry if this is a really old post... Anyway, went with the Poston GS350-110 cam for my mostly stock 350, it was a 1975-6 model motor. I did a good valve job and cleaned up the bowls/pockets. When Comp first started offering Buick cams, they had not answer to the non-adjustable valve train issue of the Buick, thats why I picked up the Poston cam. Said it had a slight lope and no overlap to build cylinder pressure, plus, I was going to add 100 shot to it. Getting ready to break the cam in today or tomorrow, so we'll see. Its in an '83 Regal with a small B&M Tork Master stall.
using that cam in my 70 electra so its hard to compare to a lighter car . idle is a little sloppy but im dynod at 415/538 so it makes good power thru 5500.........i would one day like another cam that has more of a lope but it is a good steet cam though you may want more cam after you buy this one,martyo No:
TA_C110-350 also anybody have any video or sound of this cam. its still in its box right now. looks like it and the 212 are close in specs.
Looks like the main difference between it and the TA 212 is it trades some exhaust duration @.050 for exhaust lift, which would lower its power band slightly. The increased advertised duration indicates that it's a 'fast ramp' cam, meaning it's wider at the base of the lobe than the 212. For the intake side, this means the cam can be run in a lower compression engine because it will cause a lower dynamic compression. The downside is this cam will need tighter springs than the 212, and may give some trouble with lifter crash over 5300 RPM (which the springs would help some). Valvetrain longevity would also be reduced somewhat because of this profile, particularly with tighter springs (it'll wear out faster than 'slow ramp' profiles). The TA 212 is a 'slow ramp' profile. Excellent general purpose performance cam that can be used with stock springs, gives a little lope (especially if you tune it properly and idle it down), and is easier on the valve train. Here's a link that might be useful: http://www.mercurycougar.net/forums/archive/index.php/t-362.html I'm not the cam wizard or anything, and I still have plenty to learn myself, so apologies if any of my info isn't spot on. Just trying to help.
