Who makes the best quality 1.359 diameter single valve spring?

Who makes the best quality 1.359 diameter single valve spring? Tool steel? And what are its specs, and where can I buy it Monday. How much can the factory 455 rockers take as far as spring pressure and RPM I need to turn 6100-6200 through the lights? Cam is the NHRA 315 HP stocker cam. Thanks

 

Try Pac Valve springs, Pac Valvrtrain. their one of the best out there.

 

Except they dont even mention Buick on their websiet. I think the hard part is finding the retainers

 

Do what I do, cross reference valve sizes to another engine maker , chevy, ford, pontiac, dodge, and so on. that's how I do things when I don't see Buick any where.

 

So in order to use the beehive springs I will just crossreference 11/32 diameter to the length and diameter cheby valve that matches. I will have to let u know what i find.

 

Anson
Bob at Finishline has been using beehives for a while,give him a call he can tune you in.
ary

 

This thread is about a racer looking for a single nhra legal valve spring for stock class racing, I believe he is limited to a specific spring diameter and must use 3/8 valves, also only turning 6,200 rpm with stock unported heads and stock intake manifold.

 

Thanks, I ended up making a spacer to locate over the factory .820 raised bump, then I was able to use .630 ID shims under my 1.260 out side locator with a 1.260 diameter tool steel spring, 180 seat, 350 open, 1.670 Intake, 1.744 Exhaust, now I have to worry about the lifter not bleeding down and not breaking factory rockers on TA shafts, thanks Motorman. I race it in a week, I will post the results.

 

I have run Delphi's up to 350lbs several times without any issues. I think it will be a toss up between stock valves and the rockers :laugh: Good luck and cool chevelle by the way.:TU:

 

Mark,

Are you using the 67-69 shafts and rockers or the 70-72 shafts and rockers ? Just curious.....

 

70-72 I know guys have ran the 67-69's in stock over the years with pretty good success.

 

Thanks, the one side had a TA shaft and nitroed rockers with no cracks, the other side that broke had a stock shaft with production rockers, and interestingly enough the rocker that broke had the least spring pressure.

 

70-72 I really have no idea what I'm doing here, just trying to make it work.

 

Well you are doing a great job for someone that doesn't know what they are doing Mark :TU:

 

Back in the day we used to shim the rocker shafts so the lifter pushrod seats would just visually clear the lifter clips when the lifters were on the heel of the cam lobes. This slight preload on the lifters would prevent any pump up problems. I cut some strips from sheets of aluminum in various thicknesses, .015, .020, etc. , punched holes in them for the rocker shaft bolts and tightened them down to check the preload and determine the desired shim thickness.
Doug Jones

 

thanks got it Greatscat

 

You guys gave me some good advice, much appreciated! I finished my valve train setup today, locked the dist, the car feels much better, night and day difference, we will find out next weekend.

 

I think the 455 steel rockers usually hold up better than the aluminum rockers that were introduced in 1970. Actually the 68-69 1.59 ratio aluminum setup is stronger, the rockers don't flop around on the shafts, and you should avoid grinding much off them for spring clearance. They were originally oiled through the cylinder head passages that fed the shafts but they will oil ok with the 1970 and later lifter and pushrod oiling system. They may take some effort to locate new rockers and shafts. I believe roller rockers are legal in stock class now and would probably be the most reliable way to go.
Doug Jones

 

It's been my experience that in high spring pressure situations, the steel rockers tend to have the pushrods go right thru them.

I would agree the 68/9 rockers are the best stock setup, but then again you run into the hybrid pushrod issue.. those rockers have a 3/8 pushrod cup, and I have not had success attempting to run a 5/16 pushrod with them.

We have recently went to using the 70-72 Alum rockers with mild roller cam setups, 330-350 lbs on the nose, and have had good luck so far. Use a roller rocker hold down to eliminate the rocker shafts breaking off at the ends. That's the weak point, and you will break a stock shaft long before any rocker.

Good luck

JW

 

JW. On the nose. Is that on the tip of the rocker that is supporting all that pressure? Or is that on the pushrod?