After the record breaking temps we've been having in Washington this summer, I'm becoming more concerned about the cooling system. The original radiator has served me well but looking inside I can see that it's got some gunk in it, so it's time to find a suitable replacement. I've been looking through threads and I've seen recommendations to either recore the original radiator or to find an aftermarket aluminum radiator. The AC is not functional at this time but eventually I plan to get it back up and running, so for that reason having a more effective cooling system sounds like a better idea. On one thread I looked through Larry recommended a Griffin radiator and in other threads other members spoke about Champion radiators. Despite the cost difference I'm leaning towards the Griffin but I wanted to get other people's opinions. Thanks
My 2 cents: Go back and look at Larry's recent comments. His Griffin is an older build. I believe now folks are questioning current Griffin quality. Gunk in the radiator means it needs cleaning, possibly "rodding". Other things: How old is the water pump? Impellers can erode. Tuning affects temps as well. If everything is working I'd leave it alone. If there is an issue find out whats wrong. Don't assume a new radiator will "fix" it.
Good point, the water pump was replaced before I got it but I don't know how old the pump is. I've been addressing other areas of the car, I've replaced the distributor with a rebuilt one and verified timing, the carburetor isn't original but looking at the plugs it's not running lean. I still only have an idiot light so before shelling out the cash I should install a temperature gauge to see where it's at.
Your looking at 500 or more to get recore The tendency for 68-69 heads to crack. Now I have two that have been recored, but have bought aluminum unit from china. I could put third set of replacement heads on original shortblock, but I believe a sbc would serve me better. The alum has squared off tanks where gm were rounded- so I ordered polyurethane radiator mounts which should secure chinese unit.
Rebuilt distributors may not have the correct timing curve. Did you run it through the rpms with a dial back light? Use a timing tape? If not, there is a risk you're not getting optimum performance. Read Larry's timing thread. Yes, gauges are great!
With a rebuilt distributor I purchased a used 1969 distributor that was correct for the car. I rebuilt it myself after inspecting the bushings and such, then I made sure the amount of advance the distributor had matched what the manual specified however I have not timed it per Larry's instructions. It has seemed to run hotter than it should since I got the car a year ago but the pump and radiator are the things I have touched yet which is why now I'd like to address it.
I'd like to recore to keep it as original as I can but with the plans for AC and the frequency I drive the car I'd like a system I don't have to worry about, but recoring the radiator I have would make it work more effectively anyway?
You could install a lower temp idiot light switch if you don’t want to install a gauge. I put a 225* in mine to give some warning before the head gaskets get damaged.
First thing I'd do is install an Autometer temp gauge, you need a "baseline" to see where your temps are at to start with.
Love the Champion AE 161 I bought. I kept the old radiator in case I wanted to recore it someday but the champion is well made and and a steal of a price. Car stays cool.
Looks good ,dont remember what I paid for mine, I remember it had a dented tank after opening the box. Lots of stuff out of stock.
I got a water temp gauge installed today and I wanted to report back. The car seems to be sitting where it's supposed to be temp wise, with the 195 thermostat it's sitting around 195-200 or so, maybe creeping up to 205ish idling in traffic. We'll see what the temps look like on the next 90 degree day but at least the car isn't going nuclear like I initially thought.
I like my engine to run at 180* I think that is optimum all things considered. You cannot expect the engine to run cooler if the thermostat won't let it. If you want your engine to run at 200* or more, then a 195* stat is a good choice.
