Where to start with car that's been in hibernation

I can't think of anything really that I wouldn't replace or rebuild ("servicable?") with respect to a 50 y/o drum brake system (of course turning the drums) unless of course some of it seems pretty new. I just bought wheel cylinder rebuild kits for the 1st time in I don't remember how long it's been. Figured rebuilding the orig. w/Bendix parts was better than new Chinese. Not sure I trust the repro proportioning valves vs. rebuilding an orig. either & I think I'd rather have a rebuilt orig. master cylinder. But lines, hoses, hardware, etc. I'd replace it all.

 

The OP hasn't mentioned where the car is or was from, I don't think??
The steel lines might be fine if it was in a warm climate but the hoses and rubber can get dry.

Oh yes it's important to get the legit Delco or Bendix parts. Forgot about the new hardware Dano..
NO Duralast parts from Autozone!!

 

Steel lines can also rust from the inside out I believe depending on moisture in the system but yes, where the car is from definitely matters. I'd only buy NOS GM or NORS Bendix hardware, just like I did on the Wheel Cyl. kits. I bought 6 kits recently - 5 came sealed and the other in a Bendix box that said "assembled with parts not manufactured by Bendix." I think I paid like $1.35 ea on a Rock Auto closeout so... Bought another one eBay for $5 w/free shipping. I'm sure seller wasn't happy & figured nobody would but just one.

 

Nice deal!
Back to rusting inside, I have seen heavy undercoated lines that yup look great on the outside and when I go to touch them they snap in half full of rust..

 

Car is in new England, but sat in heated garage...I'm replacing anything rubber anyways

 

Your good, fire that baby up!
I had a boat sit for 7 years, only needed 2 cans of dry gas & fresh fuel.

 

Got it fired! Syphoned a little gas out of tank, smelled fine, color was good. Filed points up clean, checked oil level, coolant, charged battery overnight......coupled cranks later it fired and idled!
Now for the sad part......distinct knock.....
Probably junk? Def would be my luck....its Buick 350 4bbl edelbrock on it with aluminum intake....
Thought I was gonna get lucky FOR ONCE.

 

Maybe not rod knock. Possibly worn rockers that lost preload, stuck lifter, or cam going flat.

 

Ok, didn't think of those......here's some wishful thinking.....
Is it possible that a TH350 tranny if low on fluid or something wrong with it, could have a "knock"? There is def a tranny fluid leak.....
And, although I'm not letting motor run more than 30 seconds, the knock does sound like from rear of motor......
I need to go find dipstick for that and check, but I dont want to warm up because of the knock....

 

In old days, we use to run can of Rislone engine treatment in the oil just before an oil change, would this be advisable?

 

Flexplate could be cracked.
Or check for loose bolts on flexplate or torque converter.
Rislone won't hurt but would be more beneficial if you got temp up and ran it for some miles, then drain out.
Pop a valve cover off and see if it's sludged up....

 

With this knock, I'm afraid to get temp up to running temp....

 

Maybe one of these will help pinpoint noise...
"Mechanic's Stethoscope" https://www.harborfreight.com/mecha...bQMXEiixqJrjAMv7XvzNT5G9JxM2XMqBoC2WMQAvD_BwE

 

Great idea......do you know i leave it running, if damage will occur?

 

Who knows, but you gotta find the cause/problem & fix it....

 

I wonder if the "knock" I'm hearing could be from the gas being sitting so long the Octane has gotten weak, causing knock?

 

Probably not.

 

Can you tell I'm praying for something simple?..

 

Take a video and post