Brett, my 4 speed w30 used to wheel hop badly. Even after replacing shocks and adding PST bushings.....the rear springs were making the car sit too high. I liked the rake with those springs......as soon as I went to a softer rear spring that allowed the car to sit level, no wheel hop.....under any conditions. The key is getting lower control arms parallel to the road. Amazing night and day difference.
Moog cc501 rear springs will sit low and are veriable springs that prevents sag and compressing over bumps. Spring pads will prevent squeeks and give a slight amount of lift.
Brett has cargo coils in my 70 boxed lowers and factory sway bar and that car never once wheel hopped ... ever ! Laid it down smooth and long !
Lucky! Upon further review, mine could sit lower in the rear and probably a bit higher in the front with the new Eaton springs I've yet to install.
opinion... Looks good the way it sits. If you go lower in the rear it will look like it is sagging... If you go lower in the rear you will need to go lower in the front too. Just my opinion. Jim JD
Well, a year and a half later and I finally got around to swapping out the rear springs for the Moog 5385's. They were old and also had: wasted lower rubber insulators and (about) 1" metal spacers on top. The spacers were replaced with new insulators and it seems to ride better. I've yet to check for hop but the stance seems a tad lower and more level as well.
Brett, that 1 inch metal spacer was your wheel hop issue those spacsrs make the car harder to squat from a dead stop. I have never had a wheel hop issue in my car other than spinning the tires. Factory 41 suspension with heavy duty lower control arms.
Ride height looks awesome.....roll out slowly and nail it......should be buttery smooth and leave some nice posi rubber.
I literally had no room on the road the other day. There was an insane amount of traffic and I was never able to get any separation to lay into it. I'll try this week.
What you call wheel hop really comes from the PINION being wrapped to the floor board ...the tires start the grip initially then the pinion gets pinned from the suspension from twisting up any further and the tire will loose traction for a second enough to drop the pinion angle and then it starts all over again and that is how the wheel appears to feel like a hop etc. So the lower stance you have really is more Idea for the weight transfer but ALL the suspension components do help like new bushings springs shocks ETC For controlling this pinion wrap that happens that cause what your feeling (WHEEL HOP) This is the reason for the traction bars etc. But I too have F41 suspension and do not get the 'wheel hop' hoping all the parts you changed will aid in stopping the problem you have. IF not upper adjustable control arms WILL do the trick to change the pinion angle for the optimum angle needed to control the pinion wrap. LEAF spring cars are REALLY bad for this wheel hop stuff... reason GM went to the 4 link better torque control and handling coil spring ride etc. LOOK at the new 1/2 ton pick-ups they are all coil spring and control arms and track bar set ups these days... Jim
Brett, if the problem persists see if you can find a set of southside machine lower traction bars they also change the pinion angle. I had them on my car back in the 80s I’m gonna be putting them back on shortly before the stage 2 engine is installed. You can still run the factory sway bar with the southside bars you just need to make to brackets out of angle iron. I used a old bedframe.
Brett you will have to drill a hole in the lower mounting bracket that’s mounted to the rear. Easy to fix when you want to go back to stock.
Here is my thread on No Hop Bars, https://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/no-hop-bars.81563/ That is what I use. They work by changing the Instant Center.
