Weatherstrip 1970 - Door and Roof Rail - Latex Version or not?

Discussion in 'The Bench' started by Utah455, Oct 19, 2021.

  1. Utah455

    Utah455 Platinum Level Contributor

    So I've been searching V8 and still can't figure out what is the best to purchase. Do I get the cheaper (around 60-80 bucks) version or the expensive latex version? (This is for a 70GS 2 door hardtop)

    Do I get Metro, TPP, Steele Rubber, Soft Seal?

    My thoughts from what I've seen on V8 is to go with the more expensive latex version for the roof rails because the have the transition and are softer/seal better. But get the cheaper version for the doors. Let me know what you think.

    Thanks,
    Nick
     
  2. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    I've used both. I put the A&M Soffseal in the beater and the TPP latex in the aquamist car. They both have thier pros and cons. The Latex is nice because it has the molded corner.
     
  3. Utah455

    Utah455 Platinum Level Contributor

    Yeah, I saw your post on it which was pushing me towards the more expensive latex version for at least the roof rails. And that was some crusty old weatherstripping that came out of your car. That piece was about all that was left in mine :) doors had none at all.
     
  4. steve covington

    steve covington Well-Known Member

    I got a set of Steele door seals and window seals many years ago for a 81-87 Regal. They were stiff as a board, requiring you to slam the door shut!. The window seals also pushed out on the glass, making it not seal at the front.
    I have used Soff Seal on my Skylarks and GS and was extremely pleased with both the fit and ease of installation. Never used the latex stuff, except MAYBE on the trunk seal on the 72 Skylark. It really DID seem softer than others used, but I do not recall ordering latex...
     
  5. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    I go for the latex door seals, and NOT for the roof rails. It's hollow and flimsy. The normal thick stuff will hold up there well, and goes around the "corner" just fine if you tuck it up correctly. It also takes the shape/imprint of the windows when they are rolled up...so it takes a little time to "break them in" but I think it's a better seal than the latex roof seals.
     
    GS44667 and Utah455 like this.
  6. gstewart

    gstewart Well-Known Member

    I used steele rubber weather stripping on my '72 GS with no problems except the trunk gasket had to be shaved for the trunk lid to close.
     
  7. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    I dont know why its so hard for these repop companies to make SOFT seals, the originals were pillow soft, these aftermarket ones are like solid rubber:rolleyes:
     
    Dano likes this.
  8. Dano

    Dano Platinum Level Contributor

    Agree. In general repro parts suck!

    Following this thread. Installed NOS door/roof in my last car & of course were perfect. Chances of finding 2 more sets of those are slim...
     
  9. richopp

    richopp Well-Known Member

    Evidently the skinned-latex of the original seals is hard (expensive) to make properly. Add the metal inserts, the plastic clips, and all the other specifics are evidently causing issues with the repro companies.

    I used SoftSeal in the mid-80's and it was garbage. I bought Steele as they were said to be better, but only a little--they FIT better. I ended up with NOS on everything but the one rarest part of all--still never seen one: convertible pillar post seal, driver's side. I had 6 of the passenger side at one time--all gone now--but to this day I have yet to run into a driver's side one and they came on 4 different GM cars for years and years. Evidently grabbing the seal while driving with the top down ruined them and they were sold out before I got into refreshing my '72 GS. I am, however, SURE, that someone out there has some and is keeping them.

    I have heard that someone is making a very similar skinned product to the original these days...probably people on here know who is making it. I would at least try that before going for NOS parts. FYI, I just sold my last pair of NOS door weatherstrips on this board for a reasonable price. Sorry you missed them.

    Finally, when I got the C-2 I found that NOS rubber is around but boy is it expensive...windshield, which I understand you must use NOS--is 350; d00rs run about 200 /each for just the surround--not too bad, but there are more than one piece per door--3 per; and the two tops take about 15 pieces total, and that can add up fast! Then, there is the one that fits the rear hatch where the top goes. I had to have one made for me by a company that specializes in C-2 only weatherstrip. They are very reasonable in price, and made me one that actually fit. I tried 2 NOS ones and one aftermarket, but they were all 4" too short--don't ask, as I have NO IDEA. I finally got this one made and it fit perfectly!

    Cars are a fun hobby, no?

    Cheers!
     
    Utah455 and Mark Demko like this.
  10. Utah455

    Utah455 Platinum Level Contributor

    You would assume that Steele Rubber makes their own stuff, but if you search just their part numbers, they come up in Amazon and it lists Metro as the manufacture....So it seems Steele Rubber is just reselling Metro weatherstripping but charging more for it.


    And I can't figure out who the actual manufacture is of the latex versions. Let alone figure out what manufactures our Buick vendors are selling. If everyone is just selling the Metro brand, then of course I don't want to pay more for it but at least I want to know what I'm buying.

    ***UPDATE*** Just called TPP and the cheaper ones are Metro but they don't know who makes the Latex versions. Just told me that they are softer.


    https://www.steelerubber.com/hardtop-roof-rail-weatherstrip-82-0072-68
    https://www.steelerubber.com/front-door-weatherstrip-82-0063-72

    https://www.amazon.com/Steele-Rubber-Products-Weatherstrip-82-0063-72/dp/B07NQPDPTN
    https://www.amazon.com/Steele-Rubber-Products-Weatherstrip-82-0063-72/dp/B07NQPDPTN


    upload_2021-10-21_13-35-4.png
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2021
  11. Redmanf1

    Redmanf1 Gold Level Contributor

    I like to use the Latex versions on the doors. I had Nos for both convertible tops except the header and it tore when I tried to put it on :( So I went with metro on that. I have one nos convertible pillar rubber so I ended up using Metro for them. I had a couple of rolls of trunk Nos weather striping. Some of this stuff is not worth making, it fits so bad.
     
  12. Utah455

    Utah455 Platinum Level Contributor

    Being an Engineer, I want to know what I'm getting and get the best deal I can get. Only had time to search the door seals and here is what I got

    Who can you trust....Look at Metro site and see the price, I guess I can trust JEGs or Summit based off the pricing, don't trust Amazon, way to cheap (Softseal price)
    Metro to Summit to TPP, its a 40 swing. Don't trust Ground up after what they pulled on me last time. Said it was a PUI product and received a Resto parts product from OPGI.

    I guess recommendations above are Latex for door seals and that's only sold by TPP

    So the question is, for the roof rail, prices seem more on par, who can I trust to send me a Metro Roof Rail Seal?

    upload_2021-10-21_17-27-39.png


    As always, double check your application and my part number callouts, I may have transposed a number along the way, before you purchase against this list.
     
    dynaflow likes this.
  13. Utah455

    Utah455 Platinum Level Contributor

    So I decided to by the Metro Roof Rail Seals and Door Seals - Seem ok and soft so far.

    In process of installing Driver Side Roof Rail and had a couple questions to assure I am installing correctly. I am not using adhesive as it seems to be tucking in the metal channel nicely, locking the back side in and rolling in the front edge using a plastic edge tool.

    My questions (70GS), does this look correct around the transition from the front to the top piece? Mainly the small corner piece ant that plastic triangle that sticks down.
    Weatherstrip Driver Roof Rail1.jpg

    Between the front and back door there is a plastic piece to guide the window, does that look correct?
    Weatherstrip Driver Roof Rail2.jpg

    Last but not least, the rear excess, how much do you need to go back into the quarter panel area? Not sure how much excess to leave and where to trim.
    Weatherstrip Driver Roof Rail3.jpg


    Thanks All!
    Nick
     
  14. mbryson

    mbryson Owner of Ornery grandma Buick

    Timely thread! Thanks for sharing your findings
     
  15. ToddsGS

    ToddsGS Founders Club Member

    Metro has the Best Trunk Weather Strip. It's actually Hollow inside and helps combat the Trunk Lid from sticking up to high.

    Also, a lot of guys have trouble with just about EVERY Brand out there of Cowl weatherstripping. Rear of hood almost always sticks up to high. We have seen cases where the rear of the hood was actually touching/hitting the top of the COWL itself though and needed to be shaved down a tad or the HOOD will Never shut regardless of the Cowl weatherstripping!! So if any of you have that issue check to see if your hood hits the Cowl itself. It's usually near the rear hood Bumper Adjusters.

    .
     
  16. ToddsGS

    ToddsGS Founders Club Member


    We've used and installed both the Latex and the standard stuff. Both will work fine if you choose the correct name Brand. Steele, Metro & the Latex is what I would recommend.
    The problem I'm having is I purchase a lot from TPP but you don't always get the same brand from them every time. If they're out of stock on one brand you may get a different brand the next time (Same Part # though)

    I'm looking into getting an account with Metro. Already have an account with Steele. So should have all 3) options soon!
     
    BUQUICK likes this.
  17. gokitty

    gokitty Platinum Level Contributor

    The listed parts numbers are for 70. Any roof rail recommendations for a 67? Thanks!
     
  18. Utah455

    Utah455 Platinum Level Contributor

    Hey Jason, I reviewed your thread on the seals and answered my first two questions above. However, for the last one, the excess on the rear, I'm not sure how much excess to leave and shove back into the quarter panel area. What did you do on yours? Love what your are doing with GSX #508.

    [​IMG]
    Thanks
    Nick
     
  19. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    I think I put about 6" down into the quarter
     
    Utah455 likes this.
  20. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    And thanks!
     

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