The pic on that plug looks like the line on the "J" strap is going over the edge of it and that means you have too much timing. It should be more on top and not over the edge of the "J" strap. Could use a better pic more in focus on that top of plug. Take a few more of some other plugs need a good in focus pic of top of plug looking down at the "J" strap. Don't use that stupid octane booster go get some real race gas 5 gal and put that in and put that timing back up. Then put at least 1 new plug in so we can see that "J" strap on the plug after running some race gas with premium gas. Could be a carb problem with the part throttle system in carb. I would try a different carb to see if you have the same problem. At least this way you will find out if this is an engine problem and not a carb problem. I would also put the stiff springs in the distributor to stop advance for now. Disconnect the vac line to dist also while testing for ping. Take all this stuff out of system then put each part back into service as you get the ping straightened out. It should not ping if nothing is advancing the distributor. If anything, it should start hesitating from no advance.
Correct me if I'm wrong. ...If my preliminary cam degree check is correct the camshaft could possibly be 7 or 8 degrees advanced because it is installed straight up.
No, if you were straight up or zero you would only be around 4 degrees advanced. Say for example, if your cam has 4 degees advance built in and you have a 3 position crank gear set at 4 degees advance you are 8 degrees advanced. If your crank gear is set at zero you are 4 degrees advance and if set 4 degrees retarded you are really zero.
The whole point of degreeing a cam is to confirm the cam is installed where you want it to be. Most cam cards specify 4* advance, but not all. Unfortunately there is no guarantee that the key ways on timing chain sets will produce the results you want. If that wasn't the case, degreeing would be unnecessary. https://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/camshaft-degreeing-101.220945/
I wonder if your damper has slipped and timing mark is way off. Try timing by ear. If you turn the distributor and the motor slows down and chugs you are retarding the ignition timing. If it speeds up until it has a slight miss you are advanced. Set it right in the middle and road test.
Yes. I just checked tdc #1 and it also lines up with cam split overlap. So I think my balancer slipped. It is probably 25 years old but may have been wrong when it bought it from Buick.
Degreeing confirms that the cam was ground properly, not just the degree of advance you end up setting it to.
Using new approximate deducted 0* on balancer I timed the ignition.... It's a LOT better!! Thanks everyone!!
I ran a full tank of gas through it going to Morris car show and runs very well but still using oil. 1qt/ 200mi. I'll have to pull all the plugs and look. 1000 miles on the rebuild now. It doesn't seem to be getting much better.
Rings may have not seated yet? Try going down a hill in second with compression braking. What kind of valve seals are in the motor?
I did quite a bit of engine breaking. Punching it on the hyway also. seal type is Enginetech S2886-20 Seal Valve UMBRELLA 3/8" SILICONE
You are not using synthetic oil on breakin are you? Check your spark plugs for oil to see if it is specific to certain cylinders. Retorque head gaskets. Do a leak down test. What is your oil pressure at idle? You may have to go to a thicker oil.
Another thought. Are you sure it is not leaking. Rear seal, front seal, oil pan, valve covers, front and back and corners of intake manifold are where to look.
Valvoline vr1 10/30. Yes I want to examine plugs next and do compression test for peace of mind. Oil 20psi hot idle. Don't see any leaking at all but will recheck.
Plugs all look dark Caramel color now after correcting the timing and another 150 mi trip on the hyway. Maybe the funny color on the plugs is from the Lucas octane booster
