yea you already have the 3in v-band and t4 flange ....68 will be perfect for a street/strip car, more so since you got a big block price is decent too! I may just go with the t3 version so I dont have to waste cash on the flange adapters...since its a 4bolt and not a v-band i'll just run a 3.5 downpipes :grin:
I will have to get some 2" to 2.5" couplers as my charge pipes are 2" but that turbo is 2.5. Also my air filters are 3" and this is a 4" turbo. But way easier to deal with than than having my down pipes reworked. It will be a while before I can purchase new turbos so for the time being I will be re drilling my t4 flange to except a t3/t4 hybrid and welding a 3" V-band onto a 5 bolt flange and maybe some redneck engineering(duct tape) to run my old set of hybrids .50 cold and .63 hot. If nothing else these small turbo's will be good for making the skymaro a great stop light brawler. However these small turbos would pull hard all the way to 6000 RPM's the only problem I had was that they had terrible boost creep. I could pull the wast gate springs and still build 9psi by third gear. I think this is because the first set of tube style headers that they where on had the wast gates coming off of one primary instead of after all the primaries merged. Never the less this is all I can afford to do at this time. Good news is that Burton Machine fixed those headers for me(that he did not build) and this will allow me to get the 67 lark boosted.
sounds good man http://frozenboost.com has some good stuff for new piping and couplers and pft flexible ss hoses and what not time I get my setup on i'll be running 2.5 AL charge pipe to the intercooler link I posted, to a 3in AL intake pipe, then 4in to 3inch silicone coupler to ev pro series hat..
James I get absolutely no boost creep with Mark's manifolds. The boost gauge never moves at all. Once it spools it stays dead on.. What is the purpose of the turbo oil catch can ???
Instead of running a breather on your valve covers you run a catch can off to the side. This keeps you from blowing oil vapors all over the place under your hood and motor.
OK... Why would oil vapor blow all over the place under the hood?? Terrible amount of ring blowby??? I initially had a little oil vapor problem, but I put a check valve on the PCV and solved that..
I guess that would be the cause of the oil vapor. I was told by one of the mustang guys that saw my breathable oil cap with some oil around the cap that most people now days replace the breathable caps with a catch can setup. I assume that under boost the crank case cant ventilate properly that it causes pressure build up.
hey which oil catch can do you think would look better in our burton setup? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GUNM...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5635549da9 or http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MFAC...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35aad31b85
How about none.. I just have a simple factory PCV valve with a power brake check valve from and import, and a breather in my valvecover. My engine bay is spotless. Are you sure you will need one??
just have a quick question is it possible or is it even worth it putting a twin turbo in a Buick 350 just asking because my skylark have a 350 motor which i just rebuild don't know if i want to swap it out to a 455 just YET ......this is not really a mod i want to do now but just thinking ahead.
this one pm justa350 aka mark burton kit comes with choice of log manifolds or headers http://www.v8buick.com/member.php?u=12180
