Finished up my install: 11x11 B&M SuperCooler, Aeroquip lines and fittings, Russell transmission adapter fittings, Summit heat sleeves. B&M trans temp guage , bung on B&M deep pan. Jim/Rott
Larry, 75psi is the benchmark that I have heard tossed around for the limit on cooler line pressure.. so you ok so far. JW
Jim, Took the car on a 90 mile round trip to a cruise night out on Long Island tonight. Had the gauge hooked up and the highest pressures I saw was about 35 psi. At a steady 65 MPH cruise with the GV on, the pressures were 20-23 psi. The only time I saw 60 was when I put it in Low1 and 2 and gunned it. Don't see that at all when driving in Drive. Changed the oil today. The System1 filter was spotless, nothing in it at all. I had to disconnect the radiator cooler to install the pressure sender so I am running with just the Derale oil cooler. Took readings several times during the trip. The highest reading I saw was 140*, so temperature wise I am doing great. Really like this converter. It does really well with the GV. My cruise RPM is the same. When I accelerate just to pass someone, the RPMs jump up no more than 300 or so. Jumping on it, the motor goes right to the sweet spot. Still have to bolt on the DR's and see where it is shifting WOT. The real test will be Cecil.
Had a problem finding what I wanted to use for rubber isolators. Ended up buying 4 furniture rubber feet. Pulled the washers out and used them between brackets and cooler. Thanks , appreciated Larry
Larry, Excellent news.. good temps... no issues with pressure, an I did figure you would like the correct fixed pitch converter. Looking forward to your track testing later this fall. The 3200 lbs 68 GS drag car that has a 15hp less version of your motor runs 10 teens at 126, and his 1.36 60' time is a big factor in that et.. I expect you will see considerable ET reduction in your times, as a result of lower 60' times from the converter. .3 to .5 second reduction in your ET is not out of the question, as long as you can hook the car, and it turns in 1.5X 60's. I ran 11.19 in an all iron 4100lbs full out 70 GS race car, so if you can run anywhere near that with a true street car, it will be very impressive. Good luck, and have fun!
Thanks Jim, I'm looking forward to Cecil. I had the car out Friday night for a cruise night. I was stepping on it a lot more and trying to watch the cooing pressure gauge. It's hard to watch the gauge and the road at the same time. Tried to check my WOT shift points, but without the drag radials, its an exercise in futility:grin: I don't think it is going above the 40's, but I haven't had it nailed for long enough to really see. Why does the pressure go up when you put in in manual low1 and 2? It is still low 20's when driving along at 65 MPH cruise. I'm going to try taping the gauge to the steering column. After driving on the highway for 40 minutes and beating on it around town for about 15 minutes, I aimed the temp gun at the pan and it said 171*, still good.
Larry, L2 and L1 boost the line pressure via the boost valve in the pressure regulator, if I recall my TH400 hyd schematics correctly. This is done to increase holding power on the clutches in these gears, and to insure sufficient pressure to clamp the intermediate band to the direct drum in L2, to provide off throttle engine braking, a function designed into the trans for coming down the mountain with your trailer behind you. Also why I like my trans customers to shift the trans manually, with wild motors like yours.. With a working detent switch, you will get a pressure increase from the detent solenoid, but it's not what the boosted line pressure is in the manual ranges. But you have been leaving it in drive, and it's been working for you so far, hopefully that will continue with your new trans here. JW
Thanks Jim, Yes, I prefer to leave it in Drive. I have the governor from my SP in this transmission. It was shifting 5700/5600 with the 71BC valve body. This trans has a 73BC valve body and Mark installed a 1-2 valve similar to the 70BB valve body. They just repaved a nice section of roadway that I can test on at certain times of the day. I will have to see where my WOT shift points are and adjust accordingly.
Hi Larry, are you using an inferred gun of some type for checking trans temps? You shoot at the pan all the time for your trans fluid temps. Or could you aim at the cooler lines as well? Are these devices expensive for a good one. I'm kinda of the same thinking as you and don't want a gauge for trans temps in the car. This is a cool idea. I just finished up building a 2004r BRF in my TR and would like to monitor the fluid temps to some degree.
The gun I bought cost me 12.48. I bought it off Ebay. I aimed it all over, both hoses, right at the tubes on the cooler, and the pan. So far, the highest temperature I have seen after a highway cruise, and subsequent beating afterward:grin: was 171*. This is the gun I have. http://www.ebay.com/itm/281297953785?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Those are good temps you got. Nice to know it's running good and cool. I'm going to get one of these, thanks. :TU:
Rottweiler like the RubberBushing idea on those Brackets to core support! I'm headed to the Hardware store.
Like I said in my previous post, I found furniture bumpers, removed the inserted washer. Cooler paperwork said not to mount rigid, althou one could argue core support is rubber mounted. Cheap insurance..... Jim/Rott
A lot of good info here. Larry did you ever hook back up to the radiator or are you bypassing permanently? I am going to follow your lead here for the 4L80e. nice work.
