Top Too Slow

Discussion in 'The ragtop shop' started by Joel Weinstein, Sep 25, 2003.

  1. Joel Weinstein

    Joel Weinstein Active Member

    Didn't notice that the site has a "ragtop" forum - I posted on another section of the site, but maybe some of you ragtop experts can help.

    Power top on my 68 GS400 is "stubborn" when lowering. The motor runs for 20 or 30 seconds and eventually the top will finally go up smoothly. When raising, there is no delay and the motion is smooth and quick. I assume that the first thing to do is to check the fluid and possible air in the line. Does the rear seat have to come out to get to the hydraulics? Is there a convertible top service manual available (I have the chassis manual, but there is nothing documented on the convertible top operation). Alternately, would one of the experts here be kind enough to walk a novice through this?

    Thanks so much!

    Joel Weinstein
    1968 GS400 Convertible
     
  2. Marco

    Marco Well-Known Member

    Hi Joel -

    Sounds like you have air in the lines.

    A Fisher Body manual would have the convertible top information.

    In my '70, the pump is located in the trunk, under the convertible well. Pretty easy to get to. I'd guess your motor is in the same place.

    Do a search on this forum (The Ragtop Shop) for the string 'bleed*'. You'll get what you need.
     
  3. rnrs1

    rnrs1 New Member

    What type of fluid is used in the pump? I have a 67 Buick Skylark and it winds forever and moves very slow.
     
  4. Smartin

    Smartin Guest

    I've seen brake fluis and transmission fluid used. Mkae sure you know which one is in your pump, since you don't want to mix the two.
     
  5. SmittyDawg

    SmittyDawg Need another garage....

    The procedure is usually detailed in the Fisher Body Manual, which is often a separate book from the chassis manual. Had exactly the same problem with a '70 GS and bled it literally about 5 hours ago! The top works beautifully now!:TU:

    Goes up and draws down to the headrail tightly, and when you put the top down, it pulls itself into the well nice and tight as well.
    15 minute job, and it helps to have another pair of hands there with you......or a very long tube for the fluid! The '70 Fisher manual says to use Type "A" or Dexron fluid, which is also what the sticker said on the pump itself.
     
  6. Jim Weise

    Jim Weise EFI/DIS 482

    Ya.. and we had to sacrifice Cole's plug to make a bleeding tool..

    Good thing I have another.. just checked, and the OE plug is not available..

    In a pinch, the rubber adapter from a typcial vacuum pump set could be used.

    Simple proceedure..

    Remove the rubber fill plug on the upper passenger side end of the pump.. we used another plug (Cole's) and cut the end off of it. The plug has a 5/32 hole in it already, and cutting the sealed end off of it, and then sticking a 5/32 od piece of steel line in it, and then attaching a piece of 5/32 rubber hose to the other end of that steel line makes your bleeding tool.

    Simply stick the other end of the rubber hose in a bottle of ATF, and operate the top to the down position.. and then hold the switch after the top has reached the full down postion for about 10-20 seconds, until you hear the motor drastically change tone.

    Then operate the top up and down 3 or 4 times, and replace the fill plug, and that will complete the bleeding proceedure.

    I will take some pics and post them on the board of the "special tool" we built to do this, if I remember to bring the Camera tomorrow to the shop.

    JW
     
  7. SmittyDawg

    SmittyDawg Need another garage....

    :ball: ...............he cut the end off of my plug.......:ball: :ball:
     
  8. flynbuick

    flynbuick Guest

    Cole

    Don' t worry. He said it was only 5/32", so you will most likely not be able to tell any difference.
     
  9. Nicholas Sloop

    Nicholas Sloop '08 GS Nats BSA runner up

    So we don't ruin too many more original plugs, another suggestion. I used a test tube stopper with a hole and short bit of Pyrex (glass) tube, then rubber hose to fit. (Think high school chemistry class) Got this stuff at a well stocked hobby shop.
     
  10. mjs-13

    mjs-13 1970 Stage 1 Convertible

    Convertible top rams

    If anyone has trouble with the "hydraulic cylinders" on their convertible top, stop by your local hydraulic hose/motor repair joint. I have had the local guy replace the seals in the top of numerous convertible top cylinders. Cost $25.00. These rams were inoperable before the repair. The only caveat seeems to be that the chrome rams "must" have excellent chrome with no pits otherwise the new seal will not help.

    These units are not designed to be serviceable so seal replacement is about the only service possible. If you have a weak or none working cylinder, give it a try. May save you a bunch of money as these cylinders are not cheap new.
     
  11. Jim Weise

    Jim Weise EFI/DIS 482



    Ya.. too bad the hobby shops were closed on Saturday night at 9PM, when I had to get this done..

    Like I said, the adapter for a vacuum guage tester.. I would have used mine, but it was missing.. and it already is set up for the hose.

    JW
     
  12. SmittyDawg

    SmittyDawg Need another garage....

    :laugh: :laugh:
     
  13. lcac_man

    lcac_man Hovercraft Technician

    I used my $10 harbor freight vacuum pump kit, it came with a bleeder container (you won't need the hand pump for this), it comes with a bag of tapered adapters, run one side to the fill port, fill the cannister, and leave the other end open. The convert pump well will take a suction right from it, or to get the initial fill just blow into the open end. Had to refill it a few times but it works like a champ and keeps the mess to a minimum.
     

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