Top stowage problem - '64 Wicdcat

Discussion in 'The ragtop shop' started by AD8, Aug 1, 2014.

  1. AD8

    AD8 New Member

    Greetings to the V8Buick membership.Looking for a little advice and your forum, strictly for Buick convertible owners, is quite a resource. My last convertible was a '69 Electra. The operation of the top was pretty straight forward, everything functioned as it should, the top nested properly in the well and the boot installed without issue. The Electra was my first Buick with a convertible top.I recently acquired a 1964 Wildcat. Older and a little different than the Electra, the top looks original to the car, zip out window, yellowed. But I thought since it came with the top operation booklet (purchased car from estate of original owner) it should not be a problem. I read it over and, after inspecting the motor and rams, unzipped the window and carefully smoothed it into the well, rolled down the windows and gave it a try. My experience looked nothing like the pictures in the little book. I was not able to pull nearly as much top material onto the deck lid, as illustrated in the booklet, to be folded and flipped on top of the compressed top hardware. As received, the boot was attached in its channel and flipped into the back seat. My intent was to lower the top so the boot could be removed but there is not enough clearance to allow removal with the top stacked up at each end of the boot track.If I couldn't remove the boot, I tried to see if it was possible to successfully cover the top. With much effort, I managed to get the boot snapped on but holy cow, what an effort! The locks are dangerously close to the underside of the boot risking damage and they exhibited a visible impression until I was able to cover them with some of the top material. I find it hard to believe this is S.O.P.I trolled around the web for a video of a '64 Buick top demonstration, but no luck. I'm hoping there is a simple and logical explanation or solution to this problem.Thanks to all who gave this a read.
     
  2. cjp69

    cjp69 Gold Level Contributor

    I have never seen a manual, or had a 64 convert, but have had other years.

    When unlatching your top from the window header, does it have a handle that releases the pin? On mine it does, and after I release the pin and start to lower the top, I flip the handle back so that the pin retracts. This allows the top boot to fit better over it. Some people also place a towel or foam over the pin area when the top is down to provide a little cushion between the hard metal and soft vinyl of the boot. I leave my boot on and flip it on the seat when lowering the top, and then once down, flip it into the well so it's mostly out of sight. DO NOT put the top down with it still in the well. Been there, done that, and had the broken convertible lines leaking fluid to prove it!

    If you want to remove the top boot from the window channel, you need to do with the top up. I actually do it with the top partially down (only a little) as it give he a little more headroom to get into the backseat. If like 69/70 models, the welting needs to be worked/slid to one end of the channel and removed a little at a time. I find that spraying a lube like water or quick detailer in the channel makes it slide easier.

    The boot may need to sit in direct sunlight for a while to help it stretch out so that the fit isn't as snug. but it should still be a tight fit, as you don't want it coming undone and flapping around.
     
  3. AD8

    AD8 New Member

    Chris,

    Thanks for the tips.

    If you remove the boot with the top in the "up" position, I imagine bending at the out bound end of the track to be severe, unless I'm missing something. Was out of town over weekend but will post a couple pictures.

    I used to close the locks on my '69 to close the tooth and protect the top from puncture, just as you describe. However; the style of locking mechanism is different on this model. I closed the locks as I was acustomed to on the Electra, but I learned quickly that once closed the locks do not simply reopen when the thumming the lever. The lock closes further than it normally would if being attached to the header and will not reopen. I had to reach inside and release the locks with a screwdriver. Looks as though the locks were refined from this design by '69.

    Thanks again for the comments. Sometimes it's tough to generate replies.

    Jim
     

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