Top mechanism specs

Discussion in 'The ragtop shop' started by TimR, Jun 27, 2014.

  1. TimR

    TimR Nutcase at large

    OK, so some here will remember as I was fitting my first top onto my ragtop resto, when the top went down it seemed like it would shift over somewhat, with the end result being (top down with no covering on it) the rails sat over about 1/4" to one side in the rear armrest pockets. As I was not sure what has happening, was running out of time for big show and could not seem to tweak it out, I bought a new (used) top mechanism which we then prepped and painted, put in and it worked (works) great.

    Anyway, finally got around to checking things out. The side rails are mint, fold nice, look good. The aft rails that bolt to the main bracket and also the side rails seem to have some issues. I noticed the drivers side and passenger side, when laid out flat sat quite differently. The "tab" part that bolts to the side rails seems to way off. So I pulled out the one other used one that I have and thought that would sort the issue out, but no, its height is right between the other two. :Dou:

    The thing is, I'd like to fix these parts. Its easy to do, they are in good shape it just appears one has the "tab" section welded in the wrong place, not sure if this is accident repair or the usual GM build quality. Its kind of hard to explain, and hard to take a picture of...but if anyone has these parts laying around, could you possibly lay them flat (as pictured) and get a measurement from the tab to the floor?? I have three here, they are ALL different, I need a reference. The picture shows the area I am talking about, and the difference in height.

    Thanks
     

    Attached Files:

  2. dl7265

    dl7265 No car then Mopar

    Tim
    Thanks for the follow up . I removed my top . Next need to remove the frame for restoration . Be nice if the manual layed out what bolts to remove .
    Also frame is aligned perfectly , kinda scared to blow it apart ..

    DL
     
  3. Duane

    Duane Member

    Tim & DL,
    We just restored a top mechanism for Beth's Chevelle @ Nick's shop and I took the entire thing apart to get it blasted. Make sure you take plenty of pictures of everything before you take it apart and make some sketches of how the bolts go at each location as well as the placements of all the wave washers. Once all the bolts are in a bucket you won't remember how everything goes back. We had another frame to look at so it was not a big deal.

    I can't help with any pics, as the frame is now painted and back on the car.

    The top frame assembly might be covered in the Fisher body book, you would need to look.
    Duane
     
  4. dl7265

    dl7265 No car then Mopar

    Duane,
    That is good advise. I'd never figure out where all the hardware went. I'm still having Nightmares of Staples :shock:.

    What is the best way to disassemble the frame ? Remove entire assembly from car intact ? Or can I remove bows ect, piece by piece?


    DL
     
  5. TimR

    TimR Nutcase at large

    ALWAYS take pictures, much easier these days with no film needed :) Don't forget to take pics of the serrated areas on the main mount as well as bolts as this will help you get it back exactly where it was (assuming it was ok to start with).

    You can remove top in one piece but if you are doing it by yourself easier to take it apart as you go IMHO. Best to get a buddy and then take whole thing out complete. The 3 big bolts on each main bracket hold it all in place on the car, one of the holes is slotted so no need to completely remove that bolt. The rear bow has to come off (or can be gently moved up and out over the body) before you lift assy out if I remember right (sorry, been a few years). Take the chrome trim off as well, and protect the paint.

    Oddly enough the fisher body manual has a whole section on the convertible top but nowhere does it tell you how to remove and install the complete assy.
     
  6. Duane

    Duane Member

    Yeah,
    Staples are easy, just get a pair of diagonal cutters so you can grab them and twist them out. I use "dikes" to take out hog rings on seats as well. Once you take out a few you will realize which way the machine originally put them in. Sometimes you need to twist them to the right and sometimes the other way. One way will be easy and the other....:rant:...



    Make sure you take pics of every location where the bolts go through and make a diagram of how each bolt was installed as well as the location where each of the wave washers sits within the frame pieces. This is real important because you often can't see where the washers sit when the frame is still together, so the pics will not show this.

    Once you get everything apart and start cleaning the bolts and mixing everything up, you will thank me for this.


    Also, talk to the guy that is installing your top.:Smarty: He may or may not want you to remove the tacking strips and/or top pads before he sees it. Some of the guys like to know exactly how the bows were spaced and use the old pads as guides. He might want you to take the pads out intact, or show him the top first so he can measure the bow positions, before you disassemble everything.
    Duane
     
  7. dl7265

    dl7265 No car then Mopar

    Tim,
    No helper so I'll take it apart. I see the bolts in the well. What about the front bow ? Have to remove the handles first ?

    Duane,
    no prob with the pads as mine had disintegrated :confused: , which is why I started the project. Oddly enough the top wasn't torn, but Probably a matter of time. I gave the installer a call before starting and got some instructions/blessing.


    DL
     
  8. Duane

    Duane Member

    DL,
    You're the man. I think the front bow is held together by the bolts that hold the handles on so once you get them off the bow will slide off. Don't forget to buy new cables too.
    Duane
     

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