Tomorrow I replace lower ball joints and centerlink, any advice?

I got new tires today (cooper cobra 235/70/15) and they said they couldnt align the front end because it has a bad centerlink and bad lower control arms on both sides. I asked how much to replace the centerlink which I had in the trunk and he said it would take an hour and a half and would be $150 labor. So I passed on that and decided to do it myself as planned and going to do the lower ball joints as well because they have some play in them as well. After everything is installed its back to the mechanic for alignment.

I got the moog centerlink from rock auto and the moog ball joints from advanced auto local. It was twice the price of rock even with shipping but I need it this weekend because the alignment appointment is in 4 days and wont be a slot open for 2 weeks if I dont take this one.

I actually found a ball joint tool at a garage sale two weeks ago and bought it just in case. Maybe I will actually be able to use it. Im going to use my magic penetrating formula that I learned about on this forum, automatic transmission fluid and acetone. I hope it works.

 

Coil springs can kill. What's your plan?

 

my plan is to review my shop manual and ask on this forum for advice. Ill take your caution under advisement. Thanks. Gary

 

+1 . take this advice seriously. rent a spring tool and go slow. thats a big spring and it's under a lot of pressure. the link and the joint are the easy part.

 

I myself hardly ever use pickle forks all they do is tear up the boots.

Lower ball joints 30min job first put ball joint in freezer not mandatory but will ease installation
Put jack under spring pocket with it about 1in from touching ,stands under frame obviously

Remove castle nut, knock the hell out of the control arm beside the ball joint, few hits and arm will drop ,I do this with all taper joints works every single time and no you not hurting anything other than the painted finish if it has one which I doubt in this situation

Put another jack with a section of water pipe large enough to go around the ball joint on the bottom under the balljoint knock the hell out of the stem out it will come ,little heat on the control arm will aid in this but may not be needed. Or go to Parts store and rent a ball joint press if you like, I don't but they may have one with the needed tubes. Can also just place edge of jack under very outward edge of control arm and do it that way. Wiring the spindle out of the way obviously keeps cussing to a minimum

When installing, place ball joint in hole on top of block of wood withjack under it jack up till full car weight rest on the jack and control arm, spray edges of ball joint with WD or the like and hit alternating sides of the control arm till joint pops in position, the reassemble, finally drink beer or if like me you would be half thru your 4th one already, if for some reason your worried about the spring just put a chain thru it anddrop it thru the back of ccontrol arm that will contain it but with the shock in place it cant go anywhere

 

I have manual pickle forks but what is a BFH?

 

what about the centerlink? The mechanic said it was an hour and a half job just for that? How long should that actually take? and should I do the centerlink first or the ball joints first or doesnt it matter?

 

Doesn't matter, but on abody cars you have to loosen the idler arm which I recommend replacing also and possibly the steering box itself depends on how the frame is made on whatever you working on to get it in position, bout 20min prob less now this is my time I been wrenching since I was 6 and know the size of every bolt on a buick, same deal tho just just remove nut and pop with a hammer on the side or use the fork. BFH= Big f'n Hammer btw

 

an easy way to remove the front springs is to cut them with a torch. I doubt that u have same.

 

I would strongly recommend NOT to remove the castle nut on the BJ. Leave it on about 5 threads. This way if the jack slips or something stupid happens the spring won't dislodge. Yeah, most times the shock will hold it, but I've seen the stem pulled right out of the shock. You must remember there's a lot of energy that's stored/displaced when something let's go. Once the joint breaks free of the taper then remove the nut & ONLY then.


Tom T.

 

I cannot get the centerlink to let go of the inner tie rod. I dont want to use a pickle fork because Im afraid to damage the boot on the tie rod. Can I leave the castle nut loose and hit on it to break the tie rod free or will it damage the threads? I want to just hit the tie rod stud with a hammer but Im not replacing tie rods and dont want to.

I also thought of using the gear puller but afraid it may mushroom the bolt? Please advise.

Thanks
Gary

 

It's best to have the center link connected to the idler arm & pitman arm & snugged down, not tight. Take a BIG hammer & place it on one side of the center link on top. Then take another BIG hammer & hit the opposite side. Again, your trying to get the taper to let go. They make pullers/pushers for this. Go to Auto Zone/Advanced to see if you can rent one. Many let you borrow them for free. In any case, hammer or puller, install the nut on the end to keep from damaging the threads. It will take some doing. If your not on a lift it becomes more difficult.


Tom T.

 

As another caution, DON'T HIT THE STUD, with or without the nut on.

 

alright. I have a narrow fork and a wide one. I wish I had a pickle fork tip for my air hammer. I have to have the car done by tuesday because thats when the al ignment appointment is and if i dont have it ready i may lose my alignment that is included with my recent tire purchase plus the next appt i get will be two weeks out it even will be honored.

I went ahead and took the cotter pins and castle nuts off the outer tie rods, inner tie rods and centerlink to idler and centerlink to pitman. Im thinking maybe Ill take the whole thing to the bench and be easier to get it apart there. Then I can clean up the tie rods and install the new centerlink. Plus there will be less in the way when I do the lower ball joints. and yes Im doing it in the garage with a floor jack and jack stands wheels off the car.

In any case, I had to take a break. Id like to go back out after supper and get the outer tie rods separate from the knuckle. I only have one big hammer and its not that big, 3lbs 11oz. I tried using some small dumbbells to hit it with (centerlink) I went up to 10lbs but was afraid to bend or break something.

Ill try again putting something behind it, when I strike it just bounces the backing weight.

Maybe Ill try the picke fork again.

So I cant use a gear puler and push against the stud? Will that mushroom the threads?

At least its warm out and not 10 degrees.

 

yes but I thought it might be easier doing it on a bench in a vise instead of on my back under the car. I havent removed anything yet except cotters and nuts. I have a gear puller, would you advise using that pushing on the stud or would it mushroom the threads?