LOL, yes, Centerforce not Centerline (just shipped a set of Centerlines I sold on ebay today, must still be on my mind)... I'll be using the fork. As for the clutch hydraulics, I still have to look into that. Good call though on the limited length of the factory GM units. I'm also going to be running the stock clutch as well as it's in perfect shape and I'm running a pretty mild small block for now. As for the rear main, I hear ya, been down that road before. I picked up a 7qt pan so I'll be replacing the seal anyway.
I'll post pics but haven't touched the car for a couple of weeks. Hoping to get back to it shortly. Did do some research though and discovered that Ram makes a flywheel for this application that's aluminum for $399 (weighs 18lbs. vs Centerlines 29lb. steel one) which I'm probably going to go with.
Finally started the process yesterday. I reinstalled the engine & trans (minus flywheel for now) and cut the trans tunnel. I have it sitting on the trans crossmember and the engine looks like it's positioned properly. But on other forums, I've read that I still need to drop the crossmember some in addition to cutting the tunnel. I need to get an angle finder to get the engine/trans positioned correctly.
Looking good. You may have to drop the angle a bit, but i dont think you do. I just know that moving the cross member to the lower part of the frame is the wrong way to go. Now if you can somehow go lower than what you have now, without lowering to the bottom of the frame that would be ok. The reason other people are suggesting you lower the trans, is to avoid cutting up the trans tunnel. But then the pinion angle will be wrong.
Yeah, I'd rather not lower the crossmember to the bottom of the frame plus the skylark crossmember rests in a slotted rubber bushing that is then clamped to the frame (very different than the Chevelles and others I've seen) so there is no way of bolting it anyway. I'm guessing this was done to provide a more comfortable ride in the Buicks, not sure. Fortunately, there's enough room to slid the crossmember back to the proper location though since it's a boxed frame. On the Chevelle forums I've read of people cutting and lowering the mounting tab of the crossmember in addition to cutting the tunnel but the chevelle crossmembers are very different than the ones on the skylarks as I just mentioned. It looks like I could modify the crossmember fairly easily though but if I don't have to, it would be even easier! LOL Do you know what the proper angle is for the engine/trans?
I dont know what it is, or how to measure it. But its called the Pinion Angle.... May want to do some research.
I did some research and the engine & trans should sit at 2-4 degrees. I just ordered an angle finder with a magnetic base that should be here by weeks end. I also found some good sites with info on finding the appropriate pinion angle...
Please post any links or info that you find along the way. I will be doing the same swap in the future, so id like to follow it closely.
Engine and trans are sitting at 3 degrees so I'm in pretty good shape. Picking up some sheet metal so I can start fabricating the tunnel.
Sounds good.... So this is with the trans X-member sitting at the top of the frame (like it was from factory..)?
Centerforce flywheel came today...found one on pro-touring.com for $200...going to get it resurfaced next week...
