Good to know thanks Larry. I found the wiring diagram for the accel points using the resistor. it's only $9, so i'll wire it with the resistor and if i have problems i'll remove it. http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/100/110/110-2010.pdf thanks again for the help. At least i can cross this off the list.
If you bring me the car and leave it for a couple days... I will find the problem......I know it how frustrated you are and I know I can make it better...
Thanks for offering MHGS! Update: I put in the new MSD Blaster 2 without resistor and boy what a difference in the idle it made. The engine sounds a lot more steady and the tick it had is a lot less noticeable. Definitely an improvement! Im going to consider an MSD distributor to get better spark and timing performance in the near future. I tried spraying carb cleaner around the manifold and i think i may have found a spot near the 1 and 3 cylinder that seems to cause a reaction in the engine. Not sure if its the intake or the head though. I think replacing the intake gaskets would be a good start for the gaskets. The gaskets from rock auto are felpro composite gaskets, not metal! List of items completed: Timing Adjustment 12 Initial 34 Total New Distributor Cap New Wires New Rotor New Coil New Spark Plugs Radiator Flush Rebuilt Carb Compression test
Cool, good progress! If you still have the points dist. then just buy a Pertronix points eliminator kit.
I finally slapped on the heat shield... I think it made the problem worse. The engine shakes about the same, BUT when i put my hands over the mouth of the carb, the idle actually raises! I can bring the mixture needles all the way down to their seats, and the car will still run! When i put the car into drive, it almost wants to die, then finally has enough idle to run (without me giving it any gas) with a rough idle. Im stuck now, i think the next thing i can do is the intake gaskets with a crap load of sealant. Thoughts?
That tells me you have a bad leak at your carb base...when your closing off the carb with your hands you are richening the mixture along with the leak air. That was the thought with the heat shield.... that you might have worn the bottom of the carb base with the heat thus creating that leak,,
But without the heat shield the carb chokes out quickly and the idle screws really affect the performance. Could i put a gasket - heat shield - gasket - then carb?
Thanks. Makes sense that another composite gasket between the metal and carb base would create a better seal. How would i smooth out the bottom of the carb? Machine shop to level it down?
According to MHGS the bottom of the carb may be warped from an over heat. Don't have the money for a new carb at the moment.
That's the way I installed mine here: http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?242604-Q-Jet-Quartet&p=2027835#post2027835 --- Rochester Q -Jet --- --- 1/4" base gasket --- --- Steel Plate --- --- smiley-channel gasket --- --- Intake Manifold ---
Where did you get the 1/4 base gasket? The thickest ive been able to find is 1/16 Thanks for the image BTW!
He doesn't have a Q-jet. It's a Carter AFB I think. how about this? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-108-51/?rtype=10
Only thing is i'm running a Carter on my 340. What material is it made out of? Im assuming its different than regular composite gasket material. Summit racing sells risers but they are metal and i doubt i'd get a good seal.
