Time to buy a hydro roller cam. need help

Discussion in 'Street/strip 400/430/455' started by B-rock, Jul 13, 2021.

  1. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    When Jim built my engine back in 2012, I told him the car was going to be mostly street driven, but I wanted it to run 11's. Jim picked a cam that I am totally pleased with. It is quiet (now that I have Johnson Roller lifters), and it idles with a little bump at 750 in gear. It makes 12" of vacuum, in gear, and nearly 15" at 900 in Park. It is responsive everywhere, and it plays nice with the Gear Vendors. I got everything I wanted. Couldn't be happier. Valve spring pressures are 370/145. Here is the cam card

    470CamCard.jpg
     
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  2. B-rock

    B-rock Well-Known Member

    Thanks Larry, Your cam profile is what I been using as a baseline.
     
  3. Jim Weise

    Jim Weise EFI/DIS 482

    Thanks Larry.. appreciate that..

    If I have learned one thing in this business in the last 20 years, is that we build torque for street engines, and not HP.. And the early torque curve loves a conservative camshaft.

    The number one mistake that many guys make is too much camshaft. It's important to feel the customer out.. does he want it to just sound cool at the drive in.. if so, tighten up the LCS, ti will condense the torque curve a bit, but it also will give him the idle chop he is looking for.

    Or, does he not care about idle, and wants the best all around performance, in a cam that is easy to live with. That's a low to mid 230's intake duration stick, with a wider lobe center.

    It took me years to understand the relationship between cam and gear in a street car.. I had to build at least 50 different combos, and install and test drive a lot of them in the typical 3.42 geared GS, before I was able to hone in on what I really liked.. None of them were "bad", they all screamed.. it's just that some are better than others, especially at part throttle. Interestingly, nothing in my previous drag racing experience really translated.. different deal, these street motors.

    I am not talking about a dyno sheet numbers, unless your starting your pulls at 2500, which is really hard on the motor and the dyno...I am talking about real world driving..

    238* of intake duration is the absolute max I will run in a street car.. I typically am much happier with the build, in the actual car it's designed for, with a cam in the high 220's or low to mid 230's. Any engine that produces beyond 550Hp is going to pin you back in the seat at WOT.. it's that part throttle driving from lower rpm's where the difference comes in. You know, real world stuff..

    Most of our street cars with 3.42 gears love the early torque that such a cam provides.

    Now granted, the design of the BBB does produce gobs of torque inherently, and virtually anything beyond a stocker just blows the tires off.. but if you get picky on driving feel and torque curves, there is a difference that I personally enjoy on the street with a shorter cam duration. A moderate acceleration away from a right hand turn, with the right cam, puts a smile on my face every time..

    JW
     
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  4. B-rock

    B-rock Well-Known Member

    jim. That’s the cam I’m looking for. 350 gears with a 5 speed manual that drives amazing and has plenty of real world power in the lower RPM range. And can still run hard at the track.
     
  5. race0

    race0 Active Member

    In my humble opinion, the carburetor is often overlooked on most street engines.. Not to hijack the thread, but a lot of great street combos have been ruined because of a poor carburetor. The camshaft is one of many aspects to a good running street engine. A 482 stage 2 with a 5 speed manual transmission is gonna be a whole lot of fun on the street. Be careful and enjoy.. Timmy
     
    B-rock likes this.
  6. B-rock

    B-rock Well-Known Member

    good points. I’m looking at going with the Holley sniper EFI system.
     
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