I always thought my car should run faster then does.I never raced on a regular basis and that could be some of it too.Hoping to get some insight from the pro's.
I never put much weight in the online calculators but they are fun to play with. http://www.wallaceracing.com/etcalc.php I put in your 1/8 mile et.....it shows your car is fast a few hundredth in the 60 time and slow a few hundred the on topen end.....but all in all right on. My car was running 12.0s with 1.55 sixty times......so mine really drug on top end. Now when we run 11.0s with 1.51 to 1.50 sixty time. So I still punch harder there than the formula......but the 1/8 and 1/4 times line up, but I'm still 2 to 3 mpH slower than the formula
Thanks John and Ben yeah I never put much into the calculators either maybe just some more track time and tuning .Jets and timing that's it,need to get carb fine tuned.I believe the combo is there.
The skinny is 70 455 bored& decked .030 TA 310 advanced 4* 70 Stage1 heads milled.010 bowl&pocket work,SP1 1" carb spacer BG850,34*total timing,TH400 3500 stall,3.73's. Chris
Great ET to MPH ratio - awesome 60' for the mph and excellent ET for that MPH (dependent on car weight). It seems you're making the most of the combo out of the hole which is often the most challenging part of drag racing. I run 1/2 sec slower with the same MPH in a 3850 lb car.
Hugger,I guess that's my whole point of the post.Granted the car was built 20yrs ago,so I'm open to suggestions on what I can do to make it a solid high 11second street car,without spending all kinda cash.
You need more power. HP isn't cheap. Seems like you are getting a lot out of that combination. Great 60' time so the converter must be working well. Maybe some more porting or a better cam. The 310 has same duration for intake and exhaust. Maybe a split duration cam with more exhaust duration.
Yea more cam (provided you have enough compression) and more stall will be about the cheapest approach, I would say another 25 to 30 hp could be had with more cam and then more stall to get the 60 down to in the 1.50's Just keep in mind the power will be moved further up so , but me and lots of other guys have swung stock rods to 6500 so don't let that hold you back
I was about to give the same advice......is this a power brake car? If so cam will be limited to keep them happy unless running some kind of vacation pump. I can tell you had a motor combo real similar.....just a 30 over motor with 9.5 or 10 to 1 I put my iron ported stg 1 head flowing 250ish/200ish with a custom ground cam having a tick over 500 lift, basickly the entire top end from the 464...heads, sp1, 1000cfm holley, headers, same 4200 flash conveter....it ran 11.30 when my 464 was 11.0-10.90. That temp motor was a tally my eye opener to me needing better heads to go faster, when a lower cimpression by 2 points, cam with .100 less lift, non balanced slap together motor ran within a few tenths of my big dollar ( well big to me ) race motor. I think it could use more carb for racing purpose, but the 1000cfm it likes racing might be a touch much for daily driving. You says 3500 rpm converter.........is it really flashing there or is it what they told you it would be. I had a tci when we first started.....was suposed to 3500 stall, it was slower than my stk 12" had it back 7 times b4 they got it right........still to this day kick myself for selling that thing Getting some real flow numbers in the heads will be important to see what going on. The cam will be based on those numbers to get the max out of them, then the rest of the parts can be picked What tires are you using at the track, do they feel like they are hooking well? Normally at least on my cat if I can gain. 02 in the 60 I wI'll gain another .02 by the end. On a totally off side note.....the flowers I got for my daughter at the flower shop almost 3 weeks ago when we were up there for a dance comp, have just started to loose their pedals.........they have made a 4 y/o super happy for the past few weeks.
If you're just looking for a better time slip, then a 100 shot of laughing gas would be the best bang for the buck. No other changes needed except to pull a few degrees of timing out and a different set of plugs with a couple points cooler heat range that are gapped a bit tighter.
So if I were to port the heads and stay with same cam for now would that get me there?As far as the converter goes@1200-1500 rpm launch it does flash to 3500.How much can you change a cam before going to a new converter?eventually I want go with 200R4 so a converter change is not something I'm looking to do right now.Back in the I ran a 28-9.00 MT slick all hooked good for me.Ben as far as the flowers go we're glad she enjoyed the I will let Nicole know and feel free leave Google review.
Head porting gains would very by how much porting was done and based on how much if any is already done. Cost of porating comes into play here too....2500 gets you new TA stage 1 heads that as cast from the Website says 290/205........I've had 2 sets of iron heads done and neither made it much over 250 on the intake side. So I would think those heads as cast are better than most ppl can port the heads too. If you have big valve now that's a plus.....if not that's more expense to make a far comparison, plus the new heads gain some compression due to lower ccs. The website talks about 50hp gain over stk, plus you have the option to get 2.260 valves not just the factory 2.125. Not sure but think the extra work to heads and valves add a few hundred. All this being said we ran 11.0s and 10.90s on our iron heads at the 250/200 flow numbers in car that went 3850 with its drive. But if port work and valves was going to run close to half of iron heads I would start to think about what I'm getting for my extra money. John zaruka did my hesds years ago, don't know if he is still doing them. John is from parma area, gary, goes by great greatscat here has a nice shop in his area that might be able to port heads too, he isn't far from as well.
Even staying with same cam and having/doing some porting will push the RPM power band a bit higher. You can reduce the weight of the car to get a bit better on the time slip. Remember though you can only go down to 11.50 before you will need to install a roll bar, that's only .490 faster. If you can reduce weight by 490 lbs should get you to 11.50? Fiberglass bumpers, fiberglass front end, fiberglass deck lid, remove all passenger seats, radio, spare tire.........etc.....etc.... Swapping to manual steering, removing pump, remove heater core and A/C if equipped and electric fans may be able to eek out a bit more as well?
If you have roller rockers , you can put solid lifters on the current cam and set lash to .005 that will liven things up a little for little $ I've got a set of 430 heads all ported up ready to bolt on for $800 also
Does those 430 heads have stage 1 valves or just standard small valve........any idea of springs and retainers? We're the guides trimmed down any for extra lift?
