I recently traded my square body in on a newer 2500 HD. I was looking to probably get a trailer for towing a GS. I was looking at some 20 footers, figuring a GS would fit in there pretty easy. The other obvious option is a 24 footer. I don't race or anything, so I don't know if the extra space for a 24 footer really helps. Like I don't carry tolls really, or spare tires. Is there anything I should consider on this from the guys who tow cars all over? Tongue weight optimization?
24’ bumper pull is like towing a sailboat in a cross wind, tail wagging the dog imho. 20’ is easier to tow in the wind just depends how far and where you are going I guess. Gord
20’ is perfect for just a GS, if you want to take along tools, coolers etc you’ll want 24’. Make sure you get the premium escape door on the street side to facilitate opening the drivers door and stepping out
Are we talking enclosed or open trailer? Either way the longer the better given popper axel location. I have a 22' enclosed "car hauler" from hallmark. With a GS or eq. loaded I have no room aft and with minimal gear forward (spare tire, totes with rigging, moving blankets) Its tight to lay under the front end to secure. Next time I would go 24'.
I pull a 24 ft V nose with a 5.3 liter 2015 Tahoe it pulls the car and trailer fine but the gas mileage drops to 8 mpg. For me the key to towing anything is proper set up and equipment. That means an anti sway weight distribution hitch set up properly and brakes on both trailer axles. I am real close to the maximum weight for the Tahoe so I am switching to a 1/2 ton Sierra with a 3.0 Duramax. Just remember you are towing 8 or 9 thousand pounds so drive accordingly. Safety first that will protect everyone and your car. Jim
24 for sure! And be sure to setup a receiver hitch on the front so you can slide a winch in when needed.
24 ft. Is the only way to go, with anti-sway hitch, with 5200 lb. dual axels and above all with side Escape door, I can’t emphasize that enough. I bought a 1996 Pace several years ago after looking at new junk, and I couldn’t be happier, it has all the things I listed above at half the price of new, pulls like a dream and I can load or unload by myself in less than 20 min. I even have a winch if I chose to drag it in if I want to.
For clarity, yeah we're talking enclosed trailers. And yeah what you're describing with locating the car aft, axle position, that's kind of what I'm trying to avoid, so I think maybe I answered my own question. Thanks for the confirmation though! I didn't think about the escape door! I'd heard it suggested elsewhere, but I didn't think of it for the purposes of opening your door. Yeah, I mean I wouldn't say money isn't an object. But I can find plenty of used 24s, most with the 5200lbs for not much more than some 20s I see, I agree. For me the question is do I need it, and is it easier to use a 20 over a 24. Yeah I appreciate the thoughts on setup, and I do think the proper hitch is a must that people under rate. I'm not gonna try and tow with a bumper for this. I just bought a rust free 2004 2500 HD with a 6.0. I was looking hard at the 8.1s (they come with their own joys) and I thought about some older diesels but decided this one would do. Worst case, a cam and a tune would make a bit of difference on an LQ4.
I have a cammed 6.0 for towing, and I found the Speed Engineering headers were the best upgrade for towing. The cam helped over 3500 RPM but under 3500 the headers helped more. A good tune of course, I use blackbear auto cal remote tuning.
For general towing I like my open trailer. Wish it was 20 - 24' rather than the 18 but it works fine and the millage does not really suffer that bad. Recently got a enclosed 24 for the Skyhawk to live in. Figure will all the stuff I need to tote to the track and then the load / unload at the end of the day a enclosed would be the way to go. However I went from 16 - 18 mpg to under 10 when I hooked to it and that was empty. I tow with a 01 F250 super duty and the 7.3L.
Yeah, all things to consider. My concern when you start messing with emissions stuff is I live in a county that requires emissions. I'm pretty sure you can pass emissions with headers, but it's going to have to be a consideration when thinking up a build. Yeah, I fully expect to take a hit on gas here, especially with a 6.0 versus a diesel. That said, I don't expect to do it but a couple of times a year, so that being the case I'll just chalk it up to the cost of doing business. I may get a trailer, own it a few years, and unload it. I'd like to experience some of the national level shows once or twice. I have no issue actually driving my car a few hours, but things like GS Nats is like 9 hours, which is no sale.
When you plan your escape door, make sure it is low enough at the bottom to allow the door of the car inside to open. Measure from the ground to the bottom of the car door, subtract 1" and tell the trailer manufacture it (escape door) cannot be taller than that number at the bottom. You will thank me later .
that’s why I sold my enclosed trailer. A poorly placed escape door. I now enjoy the open trailer. The open trailer has easier tie down and access/egress. But when I buy another it will be a special order. Or add an escape door to a used trailer.
I was in the same boat when I went looking and found that enclosed was the best bang for the buck, and 20 was minimum and 24 was perfect as far as room to tie-down, and move around the car inside, 20 ft allows no extra room once you put a GS inside, and a bigger car would never work.and I can haul a few extras, like tires tools chairs coolers …..it also served me well when moving household items from one house to another instead of paying a moving company or renting a Uhaul. Also added security, I can lock it up and no one can see what’s inside. I cannot emphasize enough, side escape door is a MUST!!!!
20 foot is tiny. You will appreciate extra length of 24. An escape door is a great option but the car door may hit low down on door frame or trailer wheel well. We had to double up on 2x12 planks screwed in to get car high enough for door to swing out.
I agree on the side door, I have a 24' with no escape door. I got such a good deal on the trailer I couldn't pass it up. At my age climbing out the window isn't a good option so I put a winch in the nose of the trailer to pull the car in. In a way that is easier than driving in when it comes to positioning the car! Bob H.
Unfortunately, I don't think custom made or most new trailers are really a good option for me. I hadn't thought a ton about open, and I'd consider it. I dont think my car would take too much of a beating given it won't go too often. But, obviously things like weather come into it, and more versatility for things like storage, or moving other things like people have said. I'd seen some with a winch which i thought was a real nice option. This occured to me as well haha. Things like tires, tool box, golf cart etc won't ever be a thing for me. But I think the points of things like being able to crawl around to tie down, resale, etc are reasonable counter points.
