Thought my ride had more in it than does

Discussion in 'V-8 Buick Powered Regals' started by Stg1Regal, Jul 5, 2010.

  1. Stg1Regal

    Stg1Regal Yep Traction Issues!:)

    Just found my ET time slips... only been on the 1/8th mile drags havent gotten a good 1/4 mile pass in.

    Averaged around 8.95 ish at 79 mph in the 1/8th. thats about a low 14's to high 13's guessimate in the 1/4.

    Most conversion caculators have me a 96 mph at 13.98ish. thats about a 246hp at the rear wheels.

    I figured it would have a lot more in her than she does.

    My set up.... 82 Buick Regal, 3,680 with me in it. A stone stock 71 Lesabre 455 est about 91K miles, I don't know the compression ratio. stock factory Q-jet, a Eldelbrock Performer Dual plane intake, HEI, Headers 1 7/8" Primaries 3" Colllectors, 2 1/2" Duals with Flowmaster Super 44's that exit in front of the axle.
    A 2004R BRF Code GN transmission, 3.42 posi in a 8.5 GN Rearend, 275/60/15 street radials off brand name... just got a set of used275/50/15 BFG Drag Radials.
    Heater & A/C deleted.

    Seen or i should say read, other set ups in GS and Skylark Bodies doing better on times with (what seems to be) the same set up.

    Just wanna bump it up. at least into the 13's ish or heck 12's, with little cash out lay.

    I'm thinking cam first... but what size? upgrade the heads to Stg 1 specs?

    Ideas?:Do No:
     
  2. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    Chris, a few comments. First we don't know what kind of ring and valve seal you're getting on a 91K engine without at least a compression test, preferrable a leakdown test too. Secondly, compression ratio probably measures somewhere in the 8:1 range, which won't support any big camshaft profiles. The TA C110 or 212 would probably still be ok upgrades. Don't be concerned with a stage 1 valve upgrade unless the heads have to have some valves replaced anyway. Not a lot of bang for the buck there until head flow numbers get much better than stock.

    If you haven't done so already, optimize your ignition timing curve per http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=63475 .

    With some experimentation you might find some improvement with enrichening both the primary and secondary sides of the carb to take advantage of better breathing.

    Those are the things that came to mind at the mement.

    Devon
     
  3. Stg1Regal

    Stg1Regal Yep Traction Issues!:)

    DaWildcat
    Dont quote me on this... but I think I got the timing set up pretty good, my distrubtor , at one time, was frozen , no advance at all.

    It was rebuilt, and we did follow that link, to set it up. I don't know the total on everything, I say we, cause I had help from a few.

    I did forget to mention on the occasion it bogs, or lays downs on the launch, I did at one time switch the base plate of the carb to a 80's 454 truck carb plate that had the correct arm and attachments for my TV cable for my trans the 2004R.

    Ever since, its given a great pass, but the bogs are frequent.

    I did put a Qjet pump spring over the Air Cleaner stud with a washer to hold the secondaries from flopping open on the launch (They seem loose, and have tried the spring tightening on the shaft), I loosen it up to race, then tighten it back down for the drive home.

    Don't know if all that is causing the problem?
     
  4. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    It may be a maladjustment of the secondary air valve spring (not the one you added) or a failed vacuum diaphragm (it's on the right front of the carb) that's designed to slow the secondary opening rate. If the diaphragm won't hold vacuum when the engine is running, the air valves may flop open too quickly.

    Devon
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2010
  5. Stg1Regal

    Stg1Regal Yep Traction Issues!:)

    DaWildcat

    I will check that ,,, thanks.!!
     
  6. chryco63

    chryco63 14's or bust!

    Chris, what are your 60 fts? Does it hook well off the line?
     
  7. No Lift

    No Lift Platinum Level Contributor

    I agree with Devon. Check your cylinder compression. If it is close to even you can bump up the cam. You have to watch the cam bearings on the old engines if you do change it. I'd say if you go with the 212 that is about as big as you can go and even then I would recommend a mild converter to make up for the lack of compression. The 110 probably would be better. The converter would probably be the biggest help in the 1/8th. The better tires will help the higher stall converter hook.

    Does you current converter have a lockup clutch. If so lock it up in 2nd.

    Check that carb. Definitely doesn't need tacked on extra springs to run right. The secondary pulloff should take about 2 seconds to come out if you push the plunger in and release it. Hold your thumb over the air inlet with the plunger in. It should stay in until you remover your thumb. If it comes out it is bad. Sometimes people install the "choke pulloff" type of dashpot which has no delay which is completely wrong.

    There is a spec for spring windup on the secondaries, usually listed in rebuild kits. If you push on them with your finger you should feel some resistance but not a ton. Can't really explain it, just have to do it by feel but it isn't much. A tight spring will slow the opening big time.

    Jet up the carb some with the headers and Edelbrock. I like 4-hole spacers to beef up the bottom end torque with combo's like yours. In an 1/8th you need all the launch you can get. The 50 series tires will help being shorter for even more effective gear ratio.

    What were you shifting at and how good is the shift of that trans? If it is a well used 200-4R even a GN type will start to give up et because of sloppy shifts behind even a mild 455. Your engine, even with the stock cam should pull strong to 5000 and that is where I'd shift. If the engine doesn't pull decently to there something is amiss. Maybe the valve springs are weak. I'd upgrade to Stage 1 springs even if I didn't change the cam and you will have to if you do.

    Unless you have a MSD to burn off the junk built up from street driving I'd try fresh plugs when you get there. The big thing is making sure everything works smoothly and as it should.

    That said I'd say close to mid 13's are possible when you get all the bugs worked out even as it stands.
     
  8. Stg1Regal

    Stg1Regal Yep Traction Issues!:)

    Thanks Mike!!

    THe trans seems fine, I had it rebuilt about 7 years ago, but the milage is low maybe 3k a year, I had all the heavy duty stuff at the time put into it, 10 vane pump, "Blue Plate" heavy duty clutches ,harden stator,wider 1st and 2nd gear bands and a some upgrades done to the valve body firm up the shifts. If I remembor correctly a GN "Red Stripe" Tourqe Convertor 2,800 stall I think.

    The converter is manual lock-up ( me and a switch) and it only get switched on while cruising on the highway.
    Now I have tried switching it on during a pass, but couldn't tell if it help it or not, most passes I experinced some type of stumble to negate any gain.

    I hafta agree, it seems like the carb may be my biggest enemy at the time, it runs great on the hiways and around town but just doesn't seem to get it at a dragstrip.

    Besides here on the forum, I talked to others about it, and they also said either switch out the carb, to a Holley , like a 850 DP, or spend the money to really tune in the Q-jet.

    I want the ease and driveabilty of a Q-jet ( helps with MPG too) but want to run hard.. so a Holley?

    I will mess with the carb some more tho.

    It does have HEI for the ignition and a Pertronics High output coil, but your saying having a MSD would be a improvement? I dont drive it as much as I should , and my passes down the strip are few and thats what Im basing my judgement on performance on. The plugs...... yeah better change those.

    I read this set up in a thread here on the forum, almost simular to mine. but in a Skylark and they pull 12's and 20 mpg.....
    I dont know the tire size in the rear, or the compression, but thats what im gunning for.... (never heard of that cam)

    chryco63

    My best 60' was a 1.96 on 275/50/15 drag radials, the same ones that were just given to me for free. I will be switching those out at the track to race on only.

    Thanks guys
     
  9. bigdawg70

    bigdawg70 1984 Buick Regal

    With a 1.96 you should be good for around a 13.50 until you solve the bog you will always compromise. you will instantly pick up with the 26inch tires i would suggest goin to a 3.73 set ang getting the carb issue straightened out and you can prob get high 12s or real low 13s
     

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