Ok guys, 72 Skylark 350 motor. Installing headers, (they were already on previously on a different 350 motor). However, when I removed them, I noticed there was no lower center bolt installed at the center exhaust outlets? Putting these headers back in....now I know why no center lower bolts were used......I cannot see any way to get at them with a wrench!!! Yes, can start them, and then slide headers over them. But impossible to tighten? What's the secret???
Maybe replace it with a bolt that has a Torx head or a Allen style head? Not 100% sure what it looks like. I know on the manifolds there isn't a whole bunch of room between the bolt and the steering assembly.
small box end wrench and you have to flip over or tighten one face at a time I think I use a long box wrench it has been a while. you got to put your arm and wrench in there use magic dust. I think I just start the end bolts so I can still move headers around then try to get that center one in at least at that point the headers are even with the heads with outer bolts started.
I cant get the "header style bolt" out to change to an Allen head. Even if I did, I dont see an Allen wrench getting in there
Yep, I tried....my hands, wrench, cant get in there. Guess it just stays loose. Maybe if I had a lift, but I still dont see access....
Allen bolt and use a long reach Allen socket Or a 12 point headed bolt with a thin wall socket. I prefer the Allen as it is easier overall.
I use a long reach Allen socket that has a ball style end to it. This allows a greater number of attack angles Why won't the old bolt come out? You can always get a cheaper box wrench 12pt and grind down the perimeter to get more work capacity.
The bolt is new, it is a new 12pt small head header bolt. I installed it partially before installing the headers, as the header has a "slot" for this bolt rather than a hole. I cannot either tighten it or remove it as there is no access for my hands or any type of tool.....
If you put the front on jack stands and pull the driver side wheel/tire, can you get to the bolt by reaching through over the top of the upper A-arm and past the splash shield? If you have a mirror, can you see what "straight line of sight" you might have to access the bolt? Not trying to wear you out over this, but I worked military aircraft maintenance, and sometimes repairs were a real "b1tch" to accomplish without removing more components than we really wanted to, as the ops checks and such made it very long repair time, and "the more you touch, the more you break" was a big factor in avoiding the long (and, supposed, easy route) . So, I was one of those guys that just kept working to find the better way to tackle a problem (and still follow tech data). And I also worked in developing procedures on new aircraft types in the Test Wing.
Put the car up on a set of ramps or Jack up put a stand on the frame. Pull off the wheel and use a good light and find your bolt from a lower angle. Use a 1/4" drive ratchet and universal and maybe a sacrificial 12pt socket. You can get to the bolts. My 69 GS 350 was a bear to get at....
I have learned this is also the technique for getting at the engine mount to block bolts... Same trick. Works great. Took me a while, but I figured it out after hours laying on back with insufficient leverage...
Allen heads always strip out the first time you can't get the bolt out. I get the stainless steel bolts and have not had any trouble getting them out or in. You can do some of it from under the car on the drivers side but for the most part you have to get wrench and hand around that pipe. Pass side I go from the front You use one finger to put the wrench on the bolt between the pipes and the other hand to turn the wrench. I will have to go look it has been a few years since I changed the gaskets as they crack and start to leak after a few years. so get an extra set if ordering for the first time I think I have been using a long box wrench to get it loose then have to switch to the smaller box wrench to finish. I will go look this morn and report back
