Other than the fact that it doesn't look like a Centerforce dual friction clutch. I've put at least a dozen of those clutches in musclecars and they all have had a ring and a series of weights attached to the diaphram fingers. Certainly if it came off you would find it all inside the bellhousing somewhere. If it was never there then I would be tempted to do as you suggested, put the transmission back in and try it like it is.
I sure hope it is a Dual friction clutch as I have my receipt from Jegs with the part number Centerforce DF148552 - Centerforce Dual Friction Clutches . o No:
I see the weights in the second picture. It's a dual force. I would bump the motor over by hand and make sure all the weighs are still attached, they are the little square blocks on the od of the clutch fingers.
There are 5 weights not attached by a thin wire. I called Centerforce and they want me to return it for inspection. What would cause this?
What the hell is that big gouge on the diaphram fingers? I have to presume that you've removed the throwout bearing from the fork; you were using one, yes? Ditto that this does not appear to be a Centerforce. I have one; yours looks as if something is missing. :eek2: OK - now I agree you have a Centerforce and yep, its broken worse than the economy.
Here are more pics and a link to the jegs website http://www.jegs.com/i/Centerforce/183/DF148552/10002/-1
You know, I never used those weighted diaphragm clutches. I just could not see any reason to get away from the 3 finger design although I had been told that the weighted diaphragm clutch were easier to depress. And, I have to admit. I wondered if the centrifugal weight retainer wire could break. I guess there is my answer. The only thing I might check along with sending that pressure plate back to the manufacturer is to make sure the clutch fork is not contacting those weights anywhere in its travel range.
My last Borg & Beck (3 finger) was a probable cause of a remarkable vanishing thrust bearing (as well as broken clutch pedals and bending linkage parts). A premature engine rebuild proved to be enough to move me away from that brutal clutch.
I don't see anything wrong with that clutch. The only problems you might encounter with that clutch is lack of clamping force that might lead to slippage and high RPM malfunction. Your Centerforce clutch has weights on it for a reason. The weights stop the clutch from sticking to the floor at high RPM. Now, your Buick may not turn enough RPM for this to be a problem. I really don't know. When I was racing stick shift, my cars were turning 6,500 to 7,000 RPM and it was a problem on those vehicles above 6k. It is very possible you could have no such problems. The Buick gear jammers on here could probably tell you better. As for what clutch I would recommend these days, I don't know. Back in the day I Zoomed Zooms, Hayzed Hayses and Ruined Rams. So, all of my clutches were custom built by a local Clutch re-builder special for me. I bet some of the other guys on here will have suggestions.
That's a dual friction clutch alright but the weights are way far away from where they should be so something is broken, probably the ring that holds them. First I've heard of one of them going bad. How old is it? Call Jeg's and see if they'll replace it.
I'm still happy with my Centerforce; I think you just happened upon that one in a thousand of anything that goes bad for any number of manufacturing defects. Did you happen to run an adjustable ball stud? I installed one to take up the slack (so to speak) that comes from a flywheel that has been surfaced any number of times in 41 years. The ball stud allowed me to get back to OEM clutch linkage geometry. As the flywheel gets thinner the clutch gets further away from the transmission. FWIW - I've heard that the OEM clutch in these cars was manufactured by Hays; I do know that it was a diaphram type for their pedal ease. Most new car buyers would not want a King Kong clutch, which is what you get with a Borg and Beck style. Trust me - if you've never used a Borg and Beck style from new you don't know pedal pressure. I wouldn't use one again unless I primarily raced and planned to pull the motor every 2 or 3 years. In that application it is a stupendous design.
Noticed another big problem,hopefully its just a bad picture...pilot bushings are round in the center,if it is oblong as it appers to be in the picture you probably have an alignment problem..replace the bushing also make sure you have enough free play away from the pressure plate,...also send the clutch back to centerfource have them inspect and advise on you problem..also diaphram clutches are far better than finger,more even pressure and force with less pedal pressure thats why chevy used them on there L88 motors,that goes back along time ago,and that is why centerfource uses them...good luck
I dont think your car is fixable and you should sell it to me...LOL. I have never had a plate go "over center" but it does sound like a pressure plate problem..What ever you do , do not put in a borg and beck style. They are hard on everything and not worth it for a street car. Lots of options on plate style and disc material. I had a brake and clutch reline shop in my area reline the disc for me. It started out as a Zoom 11" Kevlar deal that would not hold the power. They put a brass material on one side and stock type on the other. This worked well for my car. They call it a velvet touch clutch. my .02 good luck
The ring definitely broke. Once the pedal was pushed in, the weights jammed themselves between the housing and the fingers, esentially keeping them depressed.
Has anyone considered that the ring broke because you over-centered the PP? Engaging your clutch is not an exact science. If anything in your linkage is altered, you risk this. I went through this years ago with the BBB Chevy truck, so I ain't talking out of my rear.
I have heard a lot of guys are most happy with locally made, custom clutches. Cost less and better longevity than the big name brands. Ask around your area.
Ive had this problem twice with Centerforce clutches,both in customers cars,02 vette w/long tube headers,04 Mustang w/long tube headers also,both were customers cars,both failed within two weeks of install,I ate the labor and the tow on both and swore to never use another.On both units the weights broke free from the ring and wedged the fingers.I thought driver error at first, now believe defect product.Ive used a couple of the Mcleod double disc units,expensive @700,but very durable,trouble free.
I just received my replacement clutch and pressure plate from Centerforce at no charge under warranty. They told me that there was a bad weld that broke loose and caused the wire that holds the weights to break free and the weights got caught under the pressure plate thus keeping it from engaging. Tim
