TA Performance NO-HOP bars

Discussion in 'The whoa and the sway.' started by Sturmgewehr, Oct 25, 2007.

  1. Sturmgewehr

    Sturmgewehr Well-Known Member

    Just got these installed on my 4spd. Glad to report they WORK perfect,
    absolutely no hint of wheel-hop. They are $175---I know there are other
    makes that may be they less/more expensive---I would only get the TA's---no hassle
    fitting and came with 4 pages of instructions!! That's 2 more pages then I
    got with a Disc brake conversion kit!! TA all the way! Pete
     
  2. mcmain0121

    mcmain0121 Member

    Sounds like a great idea. Any chance you can post some photos of the install? Thanks!
     
  3. Topless64-455

    Topless64-455 Well-Known Member

    I am glad to hear that as I bought a set a couple of years ago on sale for 140.00 but the car has not been on the road yet.
     
  4. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

  5. Sturmgewehr

    Sturmgewehr Well-Known Member

    Thanks for the picture Larry,another IMPORTANT NOTE,the TA's will permit
    access to the differential PLUG,some of the others get in the way of removing
    it!:af: Not a good situation. Pete
     
  6. bignastyGS

    bignastyGS Maggot pilot

    Not to be rude....but maybe the picture is a bit unclear to me.I think that front bolt on the webbing looks kinda ummmmmmm....weak. I can't say as I ever seen a set on a car.I myself decided on tubular control arms and air bags for my car.Doesn't the mounting effect the suspension angle??
     
  7. Topless64-455

    Topless64-455 Well-Known Member

    [​IMG]

    Here is a picture of mine.
     
  8. Sturmgewehr

    Sturmgewehr Well-Known Member

    You have a good point,however those 2 bolts
    should not be stress points going FORWARD---I would imagine popping the
    clutch in REVERSE could have a real adverse effect. Pete
     
  9. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member


    Pat,
    The picture is deceptive. There is plenty of meat there, and like Pete stated, that is not a major stress point, it's only a 1/4 inch bolt. They did fit even better on my 8.5, and I would never think you were rude:laugh: :laugh:
     
  10. Nothingface5384

    Nothingface5384 Detail To Oil - Car Care

    how much do these effect corning on a DD?
     
  11. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    They don't. They change the instant center by relocating the upper arms. The stock setup draws the rear and body together on launch. With the No Hops, the rear is driven downward. You can see this. When I torque up on the converter at the line, you can see the back of the car rise.
     
  12. Nothingface5384

    Nothingface5384 Detail To Oil - Car Care

    ah so it's like a torque arm...instead of sqauting off the line it rises of the line..cool
     
  13. rallye bob

    rallye bob Well-Known Member

    Does anyone that uses the "no hop" arms, have issues with them hitting the trunk floor on a hard launch?
    I have heard this is a problem for some.:Do No:
     
  14. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    I have heard of that also, but I have no such issues, and I have launched the car on Drag radials plenty. Actually, I don't know why that would happen as the rear is pushed down away from the body. Maybe on the rebound??
     
  15. Nothingface5384

    Nothingface5384 Detail To Oil - Car Care

    hey larry would the no hop bars work along with a rear sway bar, or would they interfere with each other
     
  16. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    Should be no problem with stock style sway bars.
     
  17. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member


    And I have the HR Parts n Stuff rear bar. It works just fine.
     
  18. kciubxsg

    kciubxsg New Member

    The bars that you see were copied by T/A from the original design by "Lawson Engineering". Some of you might remember the ads in the back of Popular Hotrodding, and Car Craft way back in the 90's.

    The bars were sold under the name of "Eliminator bars" because they eliminated the problems the Lakewood (Genuine Suspension) bars have. Namely they were so tall they would hit the floor pans of everything except an El Camino if you hit a speed bump/dip too hard. The T/A arms are about an inch lower.

    The other main feature they offer is a real bushing. The Lakewood unit has a piece of plastic tubing that goes through a hole in the arm. You have to either double nut or use a lock nut to secure the upper control arm.

    If you look at the way the Lakewood units mount to the housing as compared to the Eliminator bars you will see how poorly designed the Lakewood units are. For the slight cost difference there is a huge difference in hardware. The Eliminator bars use a machined hub which locates in the bore of the factory bushing location. The Lakewood units have a boss that is cast into the arm and uses a plate washer to secure it. The plate washer will collapse after time and needs periodic tightening.

    The original design was drawn up to not change the pinion angle. A 1972 Buick GS was used as the test bed for these bars.

    Yes the intent to be able to get the drain plug out was intentional. You might have to pull out the bolt.

    Yes you can use a factory sway bar.

    The purpose of the bolt through the web is only to act as a safety catch if the main bolt came loose. Provided you tighten the main bolt to the proper torque it will probably never even be needed. Yes that feature was copied from the Genuine Suspension bars.

    If you want to know how I know so much about these bars, is because I was Lawson Engineering. I quit making these bars a long time ago, but I am glad T/A is still providing them with what still appears to still be the same quality.

    The original design came about because a good friend of mine complained about the crappy design of the Genuine Suspension units. I fixed all the problems he complained about which is partly why they turned out the way they did. Since I did not know what to call them, my friend suggested that since they eliminated the problems, I should call them the "Eliminator Bars".

    Actually I would like some feed back from anybody that has used these at the track and tell me what your experiences were.

    I built my car to both straight line and go around a corner. I have not had any adverse effects from using them.

    The main intent was to alter the instant center to help with the lanuch.
     
    Mike B in SC likes this.
  19. Sturmgewehr

    Sturmgewehr Well-Known Member

    :gp: :beers2: :Smarty:

    Good info about how the design came about---it is really nice when the
    sport---"drag racing" R&D and guys like yourself develop new hardware that enhances performance
    and handling. The TA stuff has really incorporated the best of many designs
    or so it would seem. Pete
     
  20. frtlnrbuick

    frtlnrbuick Midwest Mafia

    Nice reply, Mr. "kciubxsg."

    Since I know who you are, I will give you my feedback:

    These bars are on my "wifes" racecar and perform perfectly! The car needs a minimal burnout to clean the tires and has gone as quick as 1.71 in 60' at the strip. No hysterics, no squat, just plant 'em and go. The car also handles very well on the street.

    I have seen no downside to these bars and I have run the "genuine suspension" bars in the past. As a matter of fact, I copied a set of the old bars for the bars on my 9 second racecar. I have since changed over to ladder bars because the "old" bars had too much anti squat, and the holes I had drilled to adjust this were too far apart for a decent adjustment.

    But, you already know this.:Dou:

    Thanks for the bars!:TU:

    Jim
     

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