T56 Swap ?'s

Discussion in 'U-shift em' started by slolark, Nov 16, 2009.

  1. slolark

    slolark Well-Known Member

    I have a 72 skylark with a LOCKED UP 350.. I have a built LT4 (96 corporate FI engine) and T56 I was going to swap in (please no "blasphemy" comments)

    my problem..... Car was a 350/th350 car, so it has the larger automatic brake pedal. I was going to try to use a full hydrolic throwout bearing instead of stock slave/fork setup.

    my question.... What should I use for a clutch/brake pedal?

    I do have all pedals and hydrolics from the 95 Z28 the setup was in, would these work?

    Thanks, John
     
  2. slolark

    slolark Well-Known Member

    nothing?
     
  3. marxjunk

    marxjunk Well-Known Member

    use skylark/chevelle pedals. I have a catalog with a bracket that uses the stock master/slave parts, it bolts to the fire wall, and then the part bolts on, i will try to find the catalog..im in KC...Blue Ridge & 70....
     
  4. slolark

    slolark Well-Known Member

    Awesome.. Im not to far from there, 47th and main. If you could find that book it would be a great help.

    I know my engine will bolt right in using chevelle smallblock mounts. and I can just move the tranny crossmember back on the frame and it should work too.... the clutch was my only question.

    Thanks!
     
  5. slolark

    slolark Well-Known Member

  6. online170

    online170 Well-Known Member

    What is this "t56" out of??

    As far as i know, the T56 uses a hydraulic setup already. What would be the point of switching to a hydraulic throwout bearing, vs. the current Master/Slave setup. Yea it uses a fork abut why is that a bad thing??
     
  7. slolark

    slolark Well-Known Member

    it is hydraulic... its out of a 95 Z28. I had just heard read that was the way to go. I'm really just looking for pointers. This is my first attempt at putting this combo in something that wasn't built in the 90's. any input is appreciated.
    -John
     
  8. slolark

    slolark Well-Known Member

  9. online170

    online170 Well-Known Member

    I think you need to do some more research on what you WANT. Youre mixing up alot of terms here and i have no idea what youre trying to accomplish.

    I can tell you though, that neither of those pedal setups will work for what you have told me about your setup.



    All T56 clutch setups are hydraulic!!!
    One type was the master slave hydraulic system, operating a Fork and Pull style clutch (like yours).

    The other system is a hydraulic throwout bearing used for the later PUSH style clutches in the 98+ T56s.


    You cant operate the LT1/LT4 clutch with the muncie pedals, its just not the right amount of travel. It'll work, but you might not get full disengagement, or you will go past the amount of travel and start hitting the trans housing. To use A-body pedals with a T56 you need to do some research on;

    1) Clutch Pedal travel.
    2) Hydraulic line length (to ensure it will reach the firewall).
    3) Hydraulic mounting setup, to ensure you can infact bolt up to the firewall and not interfere with say the steering column or the brake booster.
     
  10. slolark

    slolark Well-Known Member

    My question was how to make the T56 work in my car. I'm getting conflicting information here.... I was able to make it work in a mid 90's Bbody using mid 90's Fbody pedals...

    I asked about the pedals, cause the above said I could use stock pedals with an adapter.

    I'm not new to the automotive world.... Just new to NON-CORPORATE, NON EFI Buicks.
     
  11. slolark

    slolark Well-Known Member

  12. online170

    online170 Well-Known Member

    The problem is that since the mid 90s theres alot of new options that have cropped up for making a T56 work. You need to decide which one works best for you.


    Your options are;

    (Assuminng youre using the Lt1/Lt4 clutch system, and T56 bellhousing)
    1) Use F-body pedals, and F-body hydraulics. (Will require some modifying of the pedals assembly to bolt up to the A-body). You may also get some aftermarket hydraulics, since the F-body version may not be long enough. Mcleod sells this as well. They already have the DRILL-MOD done, and you can buy a version with quick connect braided hose, and specify the length of the hose.
    2) Use modified muncie pedals, F-body hydraulics. (will require modification, specifically location of the little "nub" that accepts the master cyl rod, so the travel is correct).

    (Assuming youre using Muncie Bellhousing and Muncie Clutch).
    3) Use muncie pedals, muncie clutch, muncie bellhousing. Get an adapter plate that will bolt the T56 to the Muncie bell. Swap out the LT1 shaft for a LS1 shaft (longer) and use an extended pilot busing to have it all mate up. Doing this will allow you to use the parts that "bolt to the car" from the actual car. I havent heard of this being done on a Lt1 engine, usually more of a popular choice with the older generation engines.


    4) Assuming you go with option 3), you could also setup a hydraulic clutch system. This is where you could use an "aftermarket" version of the LS1 throwout bearing. Mcleod sells this.



    thegearbox.org is a good source for adapter plate, and pilot bushing. Theres other sources as well.


    Mcleod is a good source for the hydraulics.


    Those are just the options i am aware of, theres probably more. You may also want to check out Chevy High Performance, or do a google search for an A-body with an LS1 or LT1 and a 6 speed. The LS1 cars usually seem to get an auto or a keisler conversion kit in those magazines, but if someone has done this swap, you will find out very quickly what they did to make it work. Maybe someone sells a kit i dont know about.
     
  13. online170

    online170 Well-Known Member

    Im not aware of this option. Do you have pix of this adapter, or a description of what it does?


    Also;
    I was having trouble remembering the name, but the ChevyHighperformance articles (and related magazines) use the ATS kits. I see you found their website. Some of them dont mention ATS by name, because a hotrod shop might buy ATS stuff, but the shop gets credit for it.

    Kinda like Summit selling an MSD distributor. If someone asked you where you got that distributor, youd might say Summit instead of MSD, even though MSD manufactured it.
     
  14. slolark

    slolark Well-Known Member

    :gp:

    Thanks. Guess I'll get my engine in this weekend and then do some mock-up for the T56 Swap and some more research.
     
  15. slolark

    slolark Well-Known Member

  16. slolark

    slolark Well-Known Member

  17. online170

    online170 Well-Known Member

    Hydraulic Bearing = Push style clutch = LS1 T56

    Hydraulic Master/Slave = PULL Style Clutch = LT1 Engine.


    The kit you just listed uses method's 3 and 4 that i listed. T56 with Muncie parts.
     
  18. slolark

    slolark Well-Known Member

    OK, thanks for clearing that up. I think I'll yank my Camaro pedals off just to take some measurements. If I cant find any information on clutch travel on the stock muncie pedals would you be willing to measure yours for me? I'm dead set on this swap and would like to figure it out.

    I will also take lots of pics and document my progress....

    thanks guys.
    -John
     
  19. online170

    online170 Well-Known Member

    My T56 setup is no longer in a car.

    I have a Lt1 T56 behind a Gen1 SBC. I was using 95 trans am F-body pedals in a 87 trans am car.


    If be happy to take any measurements ud need of the trans out of the car, and free floating pedals.
     
  20. slolark

    slolark Well-Known Member

    Awesome, Thanks for all of your help... all my parts are at my rental house and my car is in a buddies garage, hopefully I'll get a chance to grab 'em this weekend so I can get the ball rolling on this.

    thanks again!
    -John
     

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