What grade of oil are some of you guys running in your race engines? I have heard good and bad things about every brand and every grade, just curious as to what some of you guys have been running? Thanks in advance
Denny Doug and I are currently using royal purple 10w30,have also used redline with success,same weight. gary
Sure,but onlyafter you've broken in the cam and lifters,if new,and seating new rings.stuffs too slippery,but after break in is great. gary
I left mine break in for 2,000 miles before putting synthetic in........some have said I should have waited longer. I don't think it would be a problem to switch now for you, but I have heard stories of creating oil leaks on a motor with many miles on it when switching to synthetic. :bglasses:
Denny Switching from 20-50 Pennzoil to Straight 30 Redline was worth a few hundreths,Maybe even close to a tenth. I saw no downsides.......
that will work Gary I was planning on running the redline in my car, but how would straight 30wt work in Renee's car with her driving it a little more this year. I was running 20/50 in it before? Thanks
I noticed no difference in oil pressure/characteristics.......... Check out www.myoilshop.com and contact Ron Rygelski,He's got GOOD prices/service and can tell you what to use on the street
We run Royal Purple 10-30. Good oil. Cheaper than Redline. Can get it on sale at Summit for 3.99 a quart.
George, by law all motor oil must be compatible. Synthetic oil is oil that has been engineered with the best molecules. Synthetic oil can be used in any engine. Sometimes on a higher mileage engine, you may develop seepage or a leak because the synthetic flows better. It should be no problem.
Thanks Gary Thanks for the input everyone. Gary I talked to Ron and LJ tonight and put my order in through them. Thanks
:TU: Sorry i took so long to reply Larry but i havent been getting notifications lately so i dont know who`s actually relying or not,but thank you for the info
I run the Redline 30wt. racing oil. Like Gary, I too saw a reduction in et. with the switch. It was worth about 8-9 hundreths.
I used Quakerstate 10-30 full Synthetic with no troubles. 20-50 is too thick and will prematurely wear out your cam and distributor gears, as well as grind the camshaft sprocket into the face of the block. Use synthetic only after the cam and lifters are broken-in and the rings are seated. :TU: Pete
NO,do not use the synthetic till the cam is broken in,as I said the stuff is too slippery to properly wear in the components.Since the rings are already broken in its no problem there but a new cam and lifters would probably be an issue.I always use new oil to break in a cam ,then dispose of it anyway after a couple hours of run time , so use regular light oil,30wt,then get rid of it and refill with synthetic. gary Also,on another topic,I could replace the springs w/the 107's but would go with .030-.060 shims,if thats what you need. thanks
Yes you are wrong - during break-in (and Only then) you DO NOT want as much lubrication as possible. These parts have to wear a certain amount during break-in to work properly together, and as Gary stated, Synthetic is too slippery for this to properly occur.
Actually, you do want lots of lubrication, but there is a certain amount of wear that occurs. The cam lobes and lifters are primarily lubed by splash from the crankshaft. The 1800-2200 RPM engine speeds ensure that lubrication will be adequate, and the lifters will rotate faster facilitating breakin. It's a good idea to use an oil, or additive, with Zinc high pressure formulation. GM EOS use to be good for this, but I understand the Zinc was taken out. BG MOA still has it. Diesel oil (Shell Rotella) and Motorcycle oils have good Zinc Anti wear properties.
According to JW, EOS produced after Jan 1, 2004 doesn't have Zinc. http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=62050&highlight=Shell+Rotella
My experience, since trouble started about 10 years ago when I was braking in a new 400M Ford engine is that the new standard oils don't have enough anti scuff additives even with a can of GM EOS added. I wore out a distributor gear in 45 minutes to the point of shearing off all the teeth they were so thin. I was using 30Wt non-detergent oil. I put in a new cam and new dist gear and it went 45 minutes again. I bought a new cam and gear and sent them to some place in Houston to be moly coated, then dropped the pan and put in a standard volume oil pump even though I had used a high volume pump in this engine for 36,000 miles with no problem before. This fixed it but talking to pro engine builders since I learned they were having the same problem. My 87 Turbo wiped out 3 of 12 new cam lobes a few years later. Then I began reading that the new oils have less zinc in them which makes them less resistant to scuffing. And that some new cars such as Corvettes come new with Mobil 1. I started using Amsoil ( the best synthetic on the market, in my opinion) on all my new engine start ups and I've had zero wear problems and no problems with rings seating. I put magnetic drain plugs in all my cars and trucks (10 of 'em). I used to change oil at 5,000 miles and the magnets would be full of metal powder. Now I change oil once a year ( up to 35,000 miles with Amsoils best oil) and the magnets have close to no metal powder on them. We drove my wife's 2000 Suburban 31,000 miles in one years time a few years ago and it was sure nice not having to change her oil 11 times as some people would with conventional oil.
