I am doing a trans swap in my 70 GS. I went with a muncie 4 speed instead of the turbo 400. :3gears: Along the process, I have had to replace every component. Most of the stuff I have is from Dave Kliener, and some from year one. The bellhousing is the only link that I cant verify if its the right one. I see a ton of the ones like I have on ebay. it is alluminum and has a port for the starter on both sides. The problem is that the clutch fork hits the back of the bellhousingt before it gets a chance to move the throwout bearing. I have ordered a Lakewood blowproof bellhousing part number 15120 and an adjustable pivotball 15501 hoping that this will solve the problem. I will try to attatch a pic of the bellhousing that I think is inccorrect. Please let me know if im right.
I had the same problem with mine. Dave's clutch fork is super meety and pivots on the edge of the bellhousing. I used an adjustable pivot ball and the probelm went away completely. I was pretty freaked out the first time I puched the pedal and it clicked and went real hard and the trans wouldn't shift, then as I pushed, the pedal went to the floor and it went into gear. Put the pivot ball in and call it done. Send the lakewood bellhousing back and keep the 300 bucks unless you are racing.. Bob
Bob, sounds good. I plan to hit the track, so I dont mind the lakewood, but is the bellhousing above a stock GS housing? I have tried 3 forks and they all do the same thing, I just hope that thats the only thing wrong......
Well Ive had a few guys tell me that its a stock buick housing, and Ive had a few say its not. Im replacing it nomatter what, but if thats not my problem Im stuck... I have.. Upper clutch rod - Dave Kliener Z-Bar - Year One Lower Clutch Rod - Dave Kliener Clutch Fork - Dave Kliener Clutch disc and pressure plate - Centerforce I do believe all of Dave's parts to be correct. I have seen pics of original items as well as testimonials from members here that have his parts. The year one bar seems to be correct. I guess when the fedex man brings my housing I'll find out.
How much has that conversion cost you? I bought a 72 GS that originally had a TH350. I am thinking of doing a conversion as well. Are you running a 455 or 350? I heard that the Kleiner stuff cannot be used on a small block. Where did you get the pedal assy? Thanks for answering all the Q's, Scott
Scott, That auction went for a lot more than I expected. But as you can see two people wanted it. You just don't see the complete big block set up for sale very often. I sold a 350 set up on this board for $ 600.00. :3gears: :3gears: :3gears:
Well I can attest that it can get very expensive. To be honest im sure ive got over a grand in it if you count the cost of the trans ($500...ebay). Also I bought two sets of pedals before I had a set that would work, three clutch forks, three upper clutch rod, two bellhousings. Also bear in mind that this site is really the only reliable source of information i have found, and I bought most of these parts before I found this site. My suggestions are this.... 1) Never buy anything from OPGI..they will swear anything fits...when you get it and it doesnt, it will take a month and a half to get your money back IF you do at all. They sell chevy parts mainly. 2) Dave Klieners parts are well made, and did fit my application like a glove, but you should contact him about wether they fit a small block. 3) I have a few parts from year one, and they worked good. 4) and this probably should have been number one...Most chevy parts dont work, and many morons on ebay will try to convince you that they do. I wouldnt trust anyone other than members here. I have bought several parts from people here, and they were honest, fair priced and quickly shipped. Dont get me wrong ebay is good for a lot of parts, but when you have 5 pairs of sport mirrors like I do, because the seller says he removed them from a GS and you get them and they are for a regal or firebird or some other car that you dont own, it gets under your skin. Also, I am a 4 speed fanatic, hell my lawnmower has a ratchet shifter on it, so maybe Im not a good example as to convert or not. You have to ask yourself is it worth it. I'd budget the cost of the trans + $500 and some wrenchtime. If there are any specifics youd like to know, please feel free to ask, Id be happy to help. Rob
Rob, If you could get me some part #'s and who you ordered them from, I would appreciate it. I better start buying slowly now. Thanks, SCott
reply Scott, Id love to help, but most of these parts dont have part numbers, and if they do I dont know them. The dave kliener pieces are simple, but the z-bar I have from year one, is the same price as dave's, and to be honest, his is closer to the original. The pedals I bought are stock, and I got them from a member here. Id post a request for a set of pedals. Thats what I did, and in a day, I had 5 responses of people that wanted to sell me sets. Be carefull of what you pay. I had some jerk ( not a member of this community ) e-mail me and offer to sell me a set of pedals for $250...I placed an ad on here and I bought them for a guy who's name escapes me at the moment for $55. If your not sure if its a good price, post a question on here. Although before you do anything I'd post a string here saying what you are going to do, and you will be surprised how many people have parts laying around they'd sell. Also another piece of information you probably know, but I didn't. The bracket that the pedals hang from, im sure it has a name but dammned if I know it, well all you have to do is unbolt the auto brake pedal, and install the brake and clutch pedals. You have to pay more money for that bracket, and if you have an auto in your car you already have it. My car is at the shop, but if you need any pics taken, just ask. I will enclose a few here that I have already taken, I hope they help. Rob :3gears:
This is the chevelle fork next to the dave kliener fork.....some guys argue that the chevelle fork does work, and maybe im worng, but I couldnt get it to...
this is what happpens when you use chevelle pedals with a buick setup....the pedal is too far over and hits the upper clutch rod....note that all the other components in this setup are correct except the pedals
Ok guys this is the last photo I promise... This is the chevelle pedals next to the buick pedals...not much difference, but enough to cause a problem. Also the dave kliener clutch for is just a bit longer, so when you push the clutch the lower leg of the z-bar is pushing straight back instead of in towards the trans like on the chevelle fork. When it does that it causes a bind.
Ok this is truely bizzare....I swapped out the bellhousing in the pics above with a lakewood blowproof bellhousing. The car now works, but the lakewood changes the geometry a bit. The Clutch fork hole is higher than the stock one, so now the lower leg of my z-bar is seemingly too long. Also the bend in the upper clutchrod thatgoes into the pedal itself rubs the pedal hanger. The way it was before, the car was not driveable, now, it is, but just a bit difficult. I am going to try one of the several z-bars in my collection, and I will take some pics and post them for you all. I will say this though, after seeing the lakewood housing, man they are heavy duty. Id much rather run with that than the stock.
