Sorry in advance for the long post. I just wanted everyone to know what led up to this problem and what I had done over the past few month. I'm having a problem with the steering/suspension in the 69 GS400, and I thought I would post something up here to get some ideas from all knowledgeable folks here on V8Buick. Y'all have been invaluable in helping me with other issues. Prior to this issue starting, here is what I have done to the front end: New upper control arm bushings and ball joints (Moog products) New lower control arms with ball joints and bushings from eBay Disc brake kit from CPP, purchased through OPG (included new spindles, rotors, brackets, calipers, pads, bearings, etc.) Springs by Eibach, 1" lowering Shocks by KYB CARHEX close ration steering box with new rag joint Idler arm (Moog) New power steering pump (Lares) Alignment (before the steering box and idler arm) Since I did the bushings, ball joints, springs, shocks, disc brake conversion, and alignment the steering did not want to return to center after going through a corner or around a turn. It got pretty bad when I was in Bowling Green. That was the reason the steering box, rag joint, and idler arm got replaced (this past couple weeks). I took the car for a test drive at lunch time today, to put gas in it. On the way there, the front left started making a lot of noise (creeking, grinding, and rattling noises). Filled it up and headed home. Crawled home with the hazards on, as the noise was getting worse and more frequent the farther I drove. I made it though and backed into the garage. Looked it over really quick but didn't see anything obvious. It is definitely coming from the front suspension or steering as very time I touch the steering wheel to turn it makes all this racket. Backing up the driveway and into the garage, it felt pretty jerky and just as noisy. The CARHEX steering box seems to have made it drive better for a short time, but now it feels as though something else is binding in the front suspension. My fear is that the lower ball joint on the left front is garbage. I bought those lower control arms off eBay, in an effort to get the car done quicker to take to BG. The originals were beat to crap and had one of the lower bushings welded into it. Right now, it'll have to sit for a couple days as I have work to do today and it's going to be a busy weekend... that and it has to be 100 degrees F outside. Let me know your thoughts.
I would jack the front up and take the tires off to see what’s cracking while turning your steering wheel. Check to see if the steering box bolts are present and tighten
Check the center link, sway noodle and its end links. (these can transmit a lot of noise) and if the taper pins/holes are worn/loose it can give you pops and creaks. Don't overlook body/frame bushings. Did you clock the springs in the pockets? Did you torque with the weight on wheels or with suspension hanging? As stated, with front on stands, wheels removed, have someone turn slowly lock to lock (engine off) and see if you can locate any binding, drag, or noise. Poly or rubber link bushings?
Thanks for the ideas guys! Hopefully I'll have some time tomorrow to pull the front wheels and look it all over. I'm sure that the sway bar is tight, the bushings and end links are all new. I just put the steering box on it and torqued all of the bolts to the spec in the manual (I think it was 60-70 lb/ft). I'm not discounting it, but the steering not wanting to return to center and feeling kind of "darty" was something it started doing in BG. I used rubber bushings on everything and was very careful about the spring placement, so that the ends were in the same location that the original springs were, in the lower control arms. The center link is still original. I'll look everything over really good with my girl turning the wheels lock-to lock. When I put the front end back together a couple months ago, I had torqued everything with the wheels on and the front tires on ramps so that the weight was on the suspension. What I did not do (and can't believe I forgot) was to put some Loctite on the nuts that hold the lower control arms to the frame, before they were tightened and torqued. I definitely need to get this fixed. I miss hopping in and driving it whenever, wherever. Todays events and running around would have been more fun in the Buick.
Over the past few days, I went through the front end of the car and checked everything over, retorqued all of the bolts (and added Loctite to the control arm bolts), checked and readjusted the front wheel bearings, tightened up the castle nuts on the ball joints outer tie rods and idler arm to center link joint, and greased the crap out of all fittings. It could use a new center link and tie rods as they are looking fairly worn. When I took it for a drive tonight, at first it seemed much better, but not great. By the time I got back to the house, the loud creeking noise had returned. It kinda feels like something is binding, and only does it on minor steering inputs. I got my lady to rock the steering wheel back and forth so it makes the noise, while I was under the front looking for the source. It is definitely coming from the left front, behind the wheel. I sprayed oil on all the joints and it didn't stop. My best guess is that it's the lower ball joint on the eBay control arms. They are generic, so I would have to assume they are all china made and assembled (https://www.ebay.com/itm/112641582868). The upper ball joint is the bolt-in, Moog K5108 that I put in a couple months ago. The noise seems louder from the lower part. Funny thing is, when the front wheels are off the ground, it feels fine and makes no noise. This is another reason I suspect a ball joint. I guess I'm going to get some stock GM lower arms and put all of the Moog parts I bought previously (ball joints and bushings) in them.
I had a lower shock mount creaking that I swore was a lower control arm bushing. It would only creak with weight on the suspension and I don't see why it would make a difference, but it did. A shot of PB Blaster on the rubber and the noise is gone. This year, my S-10 started squeaking while turning the wheels while stopped. It sounded like a dry ball joint. I greased the front end and it still squeaked. I had a buddy turn the wheels while I listened. It turns out it was a spark plug heat shield touching the steering shaft.
To test ball joint play, place the jack under the control arm and jack it up enough to get the tire off the ground. Place a block of wood like a piece of 2x4 in front of the tire to use as a fulcrum. Get a long bar, pry bar or even a jack handle and put the one end under the tire. Kinda like a see saw. Put some pressure under the tire and see if there's and movement in the joint
Did you try pumping some grease into the ball joints especially the lower . You mention using lock-tite on the lower control arm bolts which is unnecessary . Lube the lower ball joint with the joint " Loaded and unloaded ". Also disconnect the shock and see if it makes a difference
Thanks for the input guys! I never thought about the lower shock mount bushing, but I did hose everything down with PB Blaster while my helper was rocking the steering back n forth to make the noise, and nothing changed. I will try it again, before I take it all apart again, without the shock absorber in it. I did pump grease into both of the ball joints loaded and unloaded, until it came out the top of the boot. After going a few miles, the creaking noise started again.
I would be happy to send you out another steering box just to eliminate the steering box. I hope you figure it out so you can get back to enjoying the car. let me know. I can have it in the mail tomorrow am. Hector 626 488 5472
That's pretty awesome of you Hector! Let me look into a few other things mentioned above and I will let you know. I won't get a chance to mess with it again for a few days. I'll give you a call after I do.
Well I think I found the loud creeking noise culprit yesterday, after moving the car out of the garage to work on another one. It seems that the noise is coming from the upper control arm bushings on both sides. On the left side, the metal sleeve on the back bushing appears to be rubbing on the frame mount. I could rectify this by putting a shim or 2 in the alignment bolt (there is only 1 thin one in there now), but that will probably skew the alignment some. Not that it really matters though, I think it's off anyway and want to try less positive caster. On the right side, it looks like the front upper control arm bushing is rubbing on one of the alignment shims. I'm not sure how that one turned sideways. At least that one is easy to fix. I'm still going to replace the lower control arms with the pair of used GM ones that I bought from a member here, and install the new ball joints and bushings. I'm waiting on the one pair of new control arm bushings to come in. Also, still going to replace the steering linkage as the parts on the car now, are worn. Anyone have any experience with DIY alignments? I'm thinking of getting this kit so I don't have to go to a shop, every time I want to try a different setting... https://wheelalignmenttools.com/product/2-wheel-alignment-system/
